I've been told to get busy on this in the Spring; but, I want to do it right and not make a mess of it either when loosening the nuts or tightening them. and I'd like suggestions about what kind of caulk people have had good luck with.
thanks
aurora@capital.net
reseating deck hardware
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Bob Ohler
Re: reseating deck hardware
The best sealing material to use is bedding tape, made by Rule Industries. It may be hard to find, but if you find a boatyard that uses the stuff, I'm sure they will sell you as much as you need. The beauty of the stuff is, you cut it to length, put it exactly where you want it, and it seals great! A sharp utility knife will clean up any excess that squeezes out. Now finish up with a very short bristled brush, dipped in acetone, and you'll have a professional job! And when you're done, please come by and re-bed my stanchions. Remember to get all the mating surfaces as clean as you can before you start to re-bed any hardware.
Good luck.... Bob Ohler
bobohler@chesapeake.net
Good luck.... Bob Ohler
bobohler@chesapeake.net
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matt cawthorne
Re: reseating deck hardware
Keith,
Your post will likely generate lots of controversy. Here goes.
I have never used the sealing tape previously mentioned, but I have tried many of the other marine sealants. The general rules go something like the following.
If you expect to remove the fitting in a few years for some reason then use silicone.
If you may want to remove it in 10 years use polysulfide.
If you never expect to have to remove it then use something like 3M's 5200. I would use 5200 for any thru hulls
The best way that I have found for doing the bedding is to clean both surfaces. Using a countersink to chamfer the edge of any bolt holes to make a pocket for a thick enough bead around the bolt to provide the needed elasticity for expansion/contraction. MASK THE AREA AROUND THE FITTING AND THE FITTING ITSELF. If you are using polysulfide put down 3 layers of masking tape. Put the sealant on and bolt up the parts, making sure that the bolt itself has the needed sealant. If you used the polysulfide then clean up the excess as best you can using paper towels. Remove the first layer of tape. Throw away your gloves and get rid of the bag with the dirty paper towels. Get more paper towels ready, new gloves and a new trash bag. clean up the remaing excess and peel the second layer of tape. Repeat for the third layer. When the last tape is removed then walk away for a day or two. After that you can come back and finish the cleanup with scotchbrite and acetone. With any sealant the tape makes the job look much better. I have tried to do it without the tape and each time I have regretted it.
Good luck, keep lots of gloves, paper towels and acetone available.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
Your post will likely generate lots of controversy. Here goes.
I have never used the sealing tape previously mentioned, but I have tried many of the other marine sealants. The general rules go something like the following.
If you expect to remove the fitting in a few years for some reason then use silicone.
If you may want to remove it in 10 years use polysulfide.
If you never expect to have to remove it then use something like 3M's 5200. I would use 5200 for any thru hulls
The best way that I have found for doing the bedding is to clean both surfaces. Using a countersink to chamfer the edge of any bolt holes to make a pocket for a thick enough bead around the bolt to provide the needed elasticity for expansion/contraction. MASK THE AREA AROUND THE FITTING AND THE FITTING ITSELF. If you are using polysulfide put down 3 layers of masking tape. Put the sealant on and bolt up the parts, making sure that the bolt itself has the needed sealant. If you used the polysulfide then clean up the excess as best you can using paper towels. Remove the first layer of tape. Throw away your gloves and get rid of the bag with the dirty paper towels. Get more paper towels ready, new gloves and a new trash bag. clean up the remaing excess and peel the second layer of tape. Repeat for the third layer. When the last tape is removed then walk away for a day or two. After that you can come back and finish the cleanup with scotchbrite and acetone. With any sealant the tape makes the job look much better. I have tried to do it without the tape and each time I have regretted it.
Good luck, keep lots of gloves, paper towels and acetone available.
Matt
keith wrote: I've been told to get busy on this in the Spring; but, I want to do it right and not make a mess of it either when loosening the nuts or tightening them. and I'd like suggestions about what kind of caulk people have had good luck with.
thanks
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
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Sam
Re: reseating deck hardware
I believe the CD manual that came with my boat also suggested holding the bolt that goes through the deck and turning only the nut so as not to disrupt the sealant.