I am looking for an inexpensive boat cover for my 1982 Cape Dory 25D; used is OK or suggestions for where I could have one made would be great!
merkulov@ix.netcom.com
Boat Cover
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Boat Cover
Petr,
I think a good method of building a permanent cover frame is to use 3/4" thinwall electrical conduit! You will need to buy a conduit bender (about $20), pipe cutter, conduit ($2.25/10ft.),a number of conduit connectors, and some 3/4" crutch tips for the ends of the conduit where they rest on the deck. For a 25D, 5 bows should be sufficient.
To make a single bow, first bend the conduit in the middle to a 30 - 40 degree angle, this will set the pitch of the "roof" of the cover. Set the bent piece centered amidships and figure where to bend the tubing down to form the upright support. If the support is not tall enough, add longer straight legs to reach the deck. The crutch tips go on the ends of the upright supports.
On Hanalei, I also used 3/4" tubing to make the stringers for cover support. Only slight bending of these peices is required. To install the cover support, use tye-wraps! I tye-wraped the uprights to the lifeline stanchions and they are very secure! Much better than using small-stuff, and in the spring all you have to do is cut the tye-wraps and it all comes apart. Before you take it apart, number all connections so you can put it all back together again next spring.
I've watched others in the yard this fall assembling and struggling with wooden frames. It looks like a lot of work, the wood will warp, and it's just not a neat and simple operation. Try the conduit frame, I think you"ll like it. Make sure that the "roof" has enough pitch and the peak of the roof is essentially a straight line fore and aft.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei (CD-30)
I think a good method of building a permanent cover frame is to use 3/4" thinwall electrical conduit! You will need to buy a conduit bender (about $20), pipe cutter, conduit ($2.25/10ft.),a number of conduit connectors, and some 3/4" crutch tips for the ends of the conduit where they rest on the deck. For a 25D, 5 bows should be sufficient.
To make a single bow, first bend the conduit in the middle to a 30 - 40 degree angle, this will set the pitch of the "roof" of the cover. Set the bent piece centered amidships and figure where to bend the tubing down to form the upright support. If the support is not tall enough, add longer straight legs to reach the deck. The crutch tips go on the ends of the upright supports.
On Hanalei, I also used 3/4" tubing to make the stringers for cover support. Only slight bending of these peices is required. To install the cover support, use tye-wraps! I tye-wraped the uprights to the lifeline stanchions and they are very secure! Much better than using small-stuff, and in the spring all you have to do is cut the tye-wraps and it all comes apart. Before you take it apart, number all connections so you can put it all back together again next spring.
I've watched others in the yard this fall assembling and struggling with wooden frames. It looks like a lot of work, the wood will warp, and it's just not a neat and simple operation. Try the conduit frame, I think you"ll like it. Make sure that the "roof" has enough pitch and the peak of the roof is essentially a straight line fore and aft.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei (CD-30)
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Jon Larson
Re: Boat Cover
I'll second Dave's recommendation for using electrical conduit. I did that for many, many years when I had PERI back east. I had actually bought a kit at the boat show one year that had neat clamps for clamping the conduit at joints and to the life line stantions. I also included an extra transverse frame between the frames that were clamped to the life line stantions....we could get some pretty good snow loading back in the Hudson Valley during the winter. I had also included some vertical supports along the spine of the cover frame, again, we sometimes got a LOT of snow. By the way, I stored the mast and booms under that cover for the winter as well.
I used that blue plastic cover material, it had to be replaced every couple of years or so. I did have an old canvas cover which was the first layer placed on the frame, then the plastic went over that to reduce chafing holes in the plastic during windy days. I used duct tape to tape all joints also to reduce chafing. That was a pain to cut off in the spring, but it wasn't a big deal.
I also braced the frame fore and aft with heavy dock lines to various cleats. I always had a lot of line on PERI and it came in handy as I supported the cover between frames with a couple of rows of line strung from frame to frame with a simple clove hitch on each frame.
I think you want to think a bit about how high to make the cover, you don't want to have too much wind resistance, but it's nice to have the headroom to move about under the cover. On a sunny day, it was a delight working under that cover, though the world looked all orange when I came out from under the blue cover!
Jon Larson
jon9@ix.netcom.com
I used that blue plastic cover material, it had to be replaced every couple of years or so. I did have an old canvas cover which was the first layer placed on the frame, then the plastic went over that to reduce chafing holes in the plastic during windy days. I used duct tape to tape all joints also to reduce chafing. That was a pain to cut off in the spring, but it wasn't a big deal.
I also braced the frame fore and aft with heavy dock lines to various cleats. I always had a lot of line on PERI and it came in handy as I supported the cover between frames with a couple of rows of line strung from frame to frame with a simple clove hitch on each frame.
I think you want to think a bit about how high to make the cover, you don't want to have too much wind resistance, but it's nice to have the headroom to move about under the cover. On a sunny day, it was a delight working under that cover, though the world looked all orange when I came out from under the blue cover!
Jon Larson
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Petr,
I think a good method of building a permanent cover frame is to use 3/4" thinwall electrical conduit! You will need to buy a conduit bender (about $20), pipe cutter, conduit ($2.25/10ft.),a number of conduit connectors, and some 3/4" crutch tips for the ends of the conduit where they rest on the deck. For a 25D, 5 bows should be sufficient.
To make a single bow, first bend the conduit in the middle to a 30 - 40 degree angle, this will set the pitch of the "roof" of the cover. Set the bent piece centered amidships and figure where to bend the tubing down to form the upright support. If the support is not tall enough, add longer straight legs to reach the deck. The crutch tips go on the ends of the upright supports.
On Hanalei, I also used 3/4" tubing to make the stringers for cover support. Only slight bending of these peices is required. To install the cover support, use tye-wraps! I tye-wraped the uprights to the lifeline stanchions and they are very secure! Much better than using small-stuff, and in the spring all you have to do is cut the tye-wraps and it all comes apart. Before you take it apart, number all connections so you can put it all back together again next spring.
I've watched others in the yard this fall assembling and struggling with wooden frames. It looks like a lot of work, the wood will warp, and it's just not a neat and simple operation. Try the conduit frame, I think you"ll like it. Make sure that the "roof" has enough pitch and the peak of the roof is essentially a straight line fore and aft.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei (CD-30)
jon9@ix.netcom.com
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Petr Merkulov
Re: Boat Cover
I'll second Dave's recommendation for using electrical conduit. I did that for many, many years when I had PERI back east. I had actually bought a kit at the boat show one year that had neat clamps for clamping the conduit at joints and to the life line stantions. I also included an extra transverse frame between the frames that were clamped to the life line stantions....we could get some pretty good snow loading back in the Hudson Valley during the winter. I had also included some vertical supports along the spine of the cover frame, again, we sometimes got a LOT of snow. By the way, I stored the mast and booms under that cover for the winter as well.Jon Larson wrote: Actually I was looking for a canvas, removeable boat cover - either used or a pattern for a 25D so i could make it myself. But thanks for your response. It will be really helpful when I get a permanent moorage.
Jon Larson wrote: I used that blue plastic cover material, it had to be replaced every couple of years or so. I did have an old canvas cover which was the first layer placed on the frame, then the plastic went over that to reduce chafing holes in the plastic during windy days. I used duct tape to tape all joints also to reduce chafing. That was a pain to cut off in the spring, but it wasn't a big deal.
I also braced the frame fore and aft with heavy dock lines to various cleats. I always had a lot of line on PERI and it came in handy as I supported the cover between frames with a couple of rows of line strung from frame to frame with a simple clove hitch on each frame.
I think you want to think a bit about how high to make the cover, you don't want to have too much wind resistance, but it's nice to have the headroom to move about under the cover. On a sunny day, it was a delight working under that cover, though the world looked all orange when I came out from under the blue cover!
Jon Larson
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Petr,
I think a good method of building a permanent cover frame is to use 3/4" thinwall electrical conduit! You will need to buy a conduit bender (about $20), pipe cutter, conduit ($2.25/10ft.),a number of conduit connectors, and some 3/4" crutch tips for the ends of the conduit where they rest on the deck. For a 25D, 5 bows should be sufficient.
To make a single bow, first bend the conduit in the middle to a 30 - 40 degree angle, this will set the pitch of the "roof" of the cover. Set the bent piece centered amidships and figure where to bend the tubing down to form the upright support. If the support is not tall enough, add longer straight legs to reach the deck. The crutch tips go on the ends of the upright supports.
On Hanalei, I also used 3/4" tubing to make the stringers for cover support. Only slight bending of these peices is required. To install the cover support, use tye-wraps! I tye-wraped the uprights to the lifeline stanchions and they are very secure! Much better than using small-stuff, and in the spring all you have to do is cut the tye-wraps and it all comes apart. Before you take it apart, number all connections so you can put it all back together again next spring.
I've watched others in the yard this fall assembling and struggling with wooden frames. It looks like a lot of work, the wood will warp, and it's just not a neat and simple operation. Try the conduit frame, I think you"ll like it. Make sure that the "roof" has enough pitch and the peak of the roof is essentially a straight line fore and aft.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei (CD-30)
merkulov@ix.netcom.com
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Jerry
Re: Boat Cover
We store our 25D on the trailer. I remove the life line stantions, two screws each, and lay the verticle pieces on the deck or coil them up and lay them ahead of the cabin. I only remove the lines at the rear with the pelian hooks and leave them attached at the bow pulpit . I support the mast in the center with a 10" fender.Centering the mast fore and aft it provides a good angle for the snow to slide off. We can get a lot of wind some times and I have found that 4 additional lines over the tarp will keep the tarp in place and keep from pulling out the groments. If you want bows I think you could stick pvc pipe in the life line scokets and bend it across to the other side socket. Then just tie them together front to rear. Haven't tried that yet since the current method is so easy. Good luck.Petr Merkulov wrote: I am looking for an inexpensive boat cover for my 1982 Cape Dory 25D; used is OK or suggestions for where I could have one made would be great!
jlecocq@milehigh.net
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Bob Luby
Re: Boat Cover
Another option is PVC Pipe. 3/4 in PVC 10ft=$2.26 at home depot.
It doesn't bend much, so you need alot of joints to make the frame.
Attach support pipes to each lifeline stanchion with cable ties and
duct tape.
Use 45 degree couplings on the top of these supports to establish
your roof pitch.
Cut the pipes off about 2/3 of the way to the center line, attach 45 degree couplings and connect with another pipe. cut it in half.
Use a cross coupling (joins 4 pipes) on the center line and position it vertically, and then cut a pipe of the proper length to support this on your deck.
Do this at each stanchion pair, and you will have a series of
frames spanning the deck, each supported in the middle, and at the
sides, where they are attached to the stanchions.
To add fore-aft stability, attach very short lengths of pipe and T-connectors to the tops of the central supports. Connect them fore and aft to provide your peak and "backbone" Attach T-connectors at pulpit and pushpit to terminate the "backbone", and plug the ends into them.
Top this with a blue plastic tarp and you're done.
Of course, you could just call Fairclough Sailmakers, on Ella
Grasso Boulevard in New Haven CT. They would be happy to supply you with a beautiful custom-fitted cover with vents for around $1,000.
If you go this route, don't buy cheap plastic pipe cutting shears,
use your saber saw. The cheapies last about an hour. I took mine back after the ratchet in their mechanism failed.
Position everything so that gravity will hold it in position, and
you can take it apart and use it next year!
Rluby@aol.com
It doesn't bend much, so you need alot of joints to make the frame.
Attach support pipes to each lifeline stanchion with cable ties and
duct tape.
Use 45 degree couplings on the top of these supports to establish
your roof pitch.
Cut the pipes off about 2/3 of the way to the center line, attach 45 degree couplings and connect with another pipe. cut it in half.
Use a cross coupling (joins 4 pipes) on the center line and position it vertically, and then cut a pipe of the proper length to support this on your deck.
Do this at each stanchion pair, and you will have a series of
frames spanning the deck, each supported in the middle, and at the
sides, where they are attached to the stanchions.
To add fore-aft stability, attach very short lengths of pipe and T-connectors to the tops of the central supports. Connect them fore and aft to provide your peak and "backbone" Attach T-connectors at pulpit and pushpit to terminate the "backbone", and plug the ends into them.
Top this with a blue plastic tarp and you're done.
Of course, you could just call Fairclough Sailmakers, on Ella
Grasso Boulevard in New Haven CT. They would be happy to supply you with a beautiful custom-fitted cover with vents for around $1,000.
If you go this route, don't buy cheap plastic pipe cutting shears,
use your saber saw. The cheapies last about an hour. I took mine back after the ratchet in their mechanism failed.
Position everything so that gravity will hold it in position, and
you can take it apart and use it next year!
Rluby@aol.com