My wife and I are the new, proud owners of a 1977 CD27. I need some advice on pre-winterizing the Yanmar 8. I plan to completely winterize it around Nov. 30, when the boat will be hauled. Tomorrow I will "drain the cooling water". Do I need to "turn the flywheel 2-3 times to remove any water remaining in the pump" between now and Nov. 30? We hope to sail several more times before the 30th. The boat is in Annapolis, so we probably won't get a hard freeze until the middle of Dec. My second question concerns the depth finder. The alarm goes off continuously, so we shut it off. It is at least 12 years old. Should I replace the whole thing, or leave the present transducer?
We're looking forward to a great season of sailing, starting April 1. Thanks for any help you can offer!
MRhoder123@aol.com
Winterizing CD27
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Duncan Maio
Re: Winterizing CD27
Sam:
Check out the following link for a recent thread on winterizing; it is all good advice. BTW, I would not bother with anything other than the freshwater system until you haul the boat, given your climate.
All I do to the engine on my CD27 (hull #37) is to stick the cooling water intake in a bucket of fresh water(at least a gallon), start the engine, and add nontoxic antifreeze as soon as the water starts to run out. Keep going until antifreeze starts to come out of the exhaust. Keep the seacock closed, and disconnect the batteries.
Change the oil after the boat is hauled, and "fog" the engine by pouring 2-3 ounces of motor oil into the air intake while HAND CRANKING the engine.
Top off the fuel tank, add a stabilizer, and come back in the spring!
As for your depth finder, my research indicates that matching transducers can be tricky, and buying a new depth finder without a transducer is not particularly a bargain.
Best of luck with your new boat; let me know if you need anything.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
dmaio@att.net
Check out the following link for a recent thread on winterizing; it is all good advice. BTW, I would not bother with anything other than the freshwater system until you haul the boat, given your climate.
All I do to the engine on my CD27 (hull #37) is to stick the cooling water intake in a bucket of fresh water(at least a gallon), start the engine, and add nontoxic antifreeze as soon as the water starts to run out. Keep going until antifreeze starts to come out of the exhaust. Keep the seacock closed, and disconnect the batteries.
Change the oil after the boat is hauled, and "fog" the engine by pouring 2-3 ounces of motor oil into the air intake while HAND CRANKING the engine.
Top off the fuel tank, add a stabilizer, and come back in the spring!
As for your depth finder, my research indicates that matching transducers can be tricky, and buying a new depth finder without a transducer is not particularly a bargain.
Best of luck with your new boat; let me know if you need anything.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
dmaio@att.net
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Mike Thorpe
Re: Winterizing CD27
Sam,Sam Maples wrote: My wife and I are the new, proud owners of a 1977 CD27. I need some advice on pre-winterizing the Yanmar 8. I plan to completely winterize it around Nov. 30, when the boat will be hauled. Tomorrow I will "drain the cooling water". Do I need to "turn the flywheel 2-3 times to remove any water remaining in the pump" between now and Nov. 30? We hope to sail several more times before the 30th. The boat is in Annapolis, so we probably won't get a hard freeze until the middle of Dec. My second question concerns the depth finder. The alarm goes off continuously, so we shut it off. It is at least 12 years old. Should I replace the whole thing, or leave the present transducer?
Congradulations on your new CD27. I wish you both the best of luck with a great boat. When it comes to winterizing water systems all you have to do is replace any standing water with antifreeze. The tough part is remembering all the places. There is the engine, fresh water system, head and all pumps. Ducan has already described how to do the engine. All I would add is to flush the engine with fresh water long enough to get the engine up to temperature before adding the antifreeze. Change the oil & filter immediatly after while the oil is still warm and spray the outside of the engine with mystery oil to prevent corrosion. One trick that works on the CD27 is to use the galley sink as your fresh water/antifreeze container. Simply connect the sink drain to the input side of the raw water pump. The small amount of pressure created by the gravity feed mimics the normal pressure created by the submerged raw water intake. DO NOT attach a garden hose directly to the the raw water pump.
Drain your fresh water tank, and pour some antifreez into it and operate the galley pump until it runs pink.
Same thing with the head. (Pump the holding tank before having the boat hauled) Disconnect the head intake hose and stick it into a gallon of antifreeze and flush the head with antifreeze. You may want to put a little vegtable oil into the bowl while flushing to lubricate the head.
If you have a pump to empty the holding tank put enough antifreeze into the holding tank so that you can pump it through this pump. Once again until it runs pink.
Same thing with the bilge pumps. Put antifreeze into the bilge and pump it through the bilge pump(s) until they run pink. Its a good idea to leave some antifreeze in the bilge in case any water collects there over the winter.
This works in New England and while it may be overkill for your location antifreeze is cheap insurance.
Also, do it all after the boat is hauled. It doesn't take that long to do. Enjoy your extended season (read jealous).
Mike
CD27 # 238
Lady Jane
Sam Maples wrote: We're looking forward to a great season of sailing, starting April 1. Thanks for any help you can offer!
mthorpe@capecod.net