Upon close inspection I have discovered that the backing plates used under the deck where the shrouds are through-bolted are seriously corroded to the point of crumbling and flaking. It appears that they are made of iron, not stainless. I would like to replace/repair these. I can see that rebar was used to provide extra strength and these pieces are glassed in to the hull. Has anyone performed such a repair? There are small inspection ports, port and starboard, but it is apparent to me that these will not provide enough room to effect the needed repair. Will I need to cut back bulkheads? Does anyone have knowledge of how this area is put together? How do I get the job done and not totally destroy the look of my interior? Any and all tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
rphscott@aol.com
Chainplates on CD-28
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Jim Jones
Re: Chainplates on CD-28
I have a 77' CD28 and have just started the process of replacing the
rusted out and delaminating chain plates and attached re-bar J-hooks.
First I cut away the down turned lip on the headliner and then I used a jig saw to cut from the bottom of the inspection holes to each side and then up the sides to the top. This gives the required room to grind away the glass over the J-hooks glassed to the hull.
The next step will be to remove the main sail and boom plus hardware and then take a short run over to the yard to get the mast un-stepped.
Without the mast it is now safe to remove the bolts and associated hardware and grind away the glass over the J-hooks.
Once this is done these plates should come out. However, with the way mine look it will probably be in pieces. Anyway, with the plates out of the way, the whole area will need to be cleaned up and a template made from quarter inch plywood. I plan to get new plates with welded up T-hooks made from 304SS or 316SS. Once I get the new plates I will mark and drill the holes and use a couple of bolts in each to hold them in place while I glass in the T-hooks.
Since I will bring the mast back with me, now is a good time to go over/replace all fittings while the glass/epoxy is curing. After two or three days of curing the mast can restepped and shrouds tensioned.
Now the cut out panels can be feathered on their edges and glassed back into place. Then follows sanding, fairing, sanding and painting.
This project is a lot of work, but when complete I will know that the mast want come down taking half the deck with it.
Jim Jones
jjones@intergate.com
rusted out and delaminating chain plates and attached re-bar J-hooks.
First I cut away the down turned lip on the headliner and then I used a jig saw to cut from the bottom of the inspection holes to each side and then up the sides to the top. This gives the required room to grind away the glass over the J-hooks glassed to the hull.
The next step will be to remove the main sail and boom plus hardware and then take a short run over to the yard to get the mast un-stepped.
Without the mast it is now safe to remove the bolts and associated hardware and grind away the glass over the J-hooks.
Once this is done these plates should come out. However, with the way mine look it will probably be in pieces. Anyway, with the plates out of the way, the whole area will need to be cleaned up and a template made from quarter inch plywood. I plan to get new plates with welded up T-hooks made from 304SS or 316SS. Once I get the new plates I will mark and drill the holes and use a couple of bolts in each to hold them in place while I glass in the T-hooks.
Since I will bring the mast back with me, now is a good time to go over/replace all fittings while the glass/epoxy is curing. After two or three days of curing the mast can restepped and shrouds tensioned.
Now the cut out panels can be feathered on their edges and glassed back into place. Then follows sanding, fairing, sanding and painting.
This project is a lot of work, but when complete I will know that the mast want come down taking half the deck with it.
Jim Jones
jjones@intergate.com