Engine Installation on the Far Reach

[John Stone]

On the lift pump, there's quite a bit of free movement where nothing will happen. You have to press hard after you've
hit bottom, then you can feel the pump working. Also, you might have to turn the crankshaft a bit if the pump's lever
is on the high point of the cam that activates it.
Chances are you know about all this, John - but it doesn't hurt to mention it. - Jean

Thanks Jean. I did rotate the crank and it gave me another 1/4” of movement. I didn’t know about pressing hard. I thought it bottomed out but maybe it didn’t. I’ll keep that in mind when I reattack today.

[John Stone]

Success!

It took most of the day to figure out why I could not prime the fuel system. I was detaching fuel lines, blowing air through them to find obstructions, moving the priming bulb slowly up stream. For awhile I thought maybe an issue with the tank as implausible at it seemed. I relocated the first ball valve from up high in the port locker to the engine space level with the top of the tank. Still would not prime though.

Turns out it was the first ball valve...I finally removed it and in five squeezes fuel was rushing into the Racor filter. For the life of me I don’t understand how or why the fuel would not pass through it. I blew air through it when open and could not when it was closed. Anyway, once fuel made it to the Racor it was a simple matter to bleed the engine fuel filter. When I hit the start key the engine instantly fired and went to a good idle. I ran it for 5 min and then shut it down and checked fluids. All good. No leaks and only one drip off the water lock muffle which I took care of by tightening some hose clamps. Then I started the engine again and advanced the throttle a bit to maybe 1200 RPMs and let her run for 25 min. The house bank charged right up.

I am very pleased which is an understatement.

[Jim Walsh]

I have a Moeller Marine brass fuel shut-off between my tank and the fuel/water separator. Not as rugged as the ball valve but entirely sufficient for the task.
It’s nice to hear that your engine has been test run successfully.....congratulations.

[John Stone]

I have a Moeller Marine brass fuel shut-off between my tank and the fuel/water separator. Not as rugged as the ball valve but entirely sufficient for the task.
It’s nice to hear that your engine has been test run successfully.....congratulations.

Thanks Jim. I still have another Groco shut off between the tank and the engine. Right before the Racor. But the one I removed was close to the tank and accessible through the locker. It’s weird fuel wouldn’t flow through it.

You must be getting Orion commissioned after her long winters nap. You should be underway before too much longer.

[Keith]

Congrats John! It's a wonderful feeling.

I ran the 10Kw electric motor today in both forward and reverse for about 10 minutes while spraying water at the cutlas bering or the end of the tube anyway. All systems are go for launch in a few weeks.

Keith

[JD-MDR]

So nice.. Looks like mechanical components in a hospital surgery room.

[John Stone]

I shuttled back and fourth to the fuel dock with a five gallon can. Got maybe 19 gallons in the boat tank. It’s full. Was an interesting experience. Having the fuel fill in the bridge deck seems to work well. I used the Flow Tool water trap funnel. Not a fan. What I did not like is there is a recess below the cone in the center. So all the fuel does not go into the fuel tank. Some small amount collects there. Not exactly sure why. Anyway, that means you’re always going to have this excess, but small amount, of fuel to deal with. Maybe there is a simple way to deal with it. Something to consider. I don’t smell any diesel in the boat. Didn’t smell it either after running the engine the other day. Here is a kink to how the funnel works. It’s. competitor but they look exactly the same.

https://youtu.be/qKYSmr9L-24

After I topped off the tank I tested the propeller puller I made in the shop last night. The issue is if Flex O Fold did not get the pitch right on the folding two blade they will exchange the blades for free. The catch is the prop can’t be painted nor can it be in the water more than a week. So, I need a simple way to remove the propeller in the water. The blades have to be removed before the shaft nut can be removed which holds the prop on. Shouldn’t be too hard unless I drop something. So Ill need a weighted bucket. But you still have to pull the hub. Hubs can get seriously stuck to the tapered shafts. Standard wheel puller doesn’t fit. Flex O Fold makes a prop puller but it’s universal and fits all their props, it’s big, it’s expensive. So I made my own by laminated scraps of 1/2” and 1/4” G 10 together with West epoxy. I drilled a recessed hole in the center using a 7/8” fostner bit and epoxied a SS nut for 1/2” bolt into the recessed hole. When cured, I filed two recesses in the G 10 to align with the two holes in the hub that hold the blades on. I cut down two 1/2” shoulder bolts. The shoulder bolts lock the G10 in place. Then tighten the center bolt down with a 3/4” wrench on the end of the shaft which pushes the hub off the shaft. I finished the day by using a scraper to clean up the top edge of the waterline in preparation for hard bottom paint.

I may take tomorrow off. But the next task is to apply some epoxy fairing to a couple places on the hull in preparation for anti fouling. I’m still thinking about the rub rail. Is was too much to think about a month ago. But with the engine installation behind me I am feeling a little burst of energy. No decision. Just mulling on it.

[John Stone]

I spent the last couple days sanding the barrier coat some more to address where barnacles had breached it and left an uneven surface. We also moved the jack stands and sanded the paint off there too.

Today we ran the engine about 20 min to test the throttle adjustment. We got the engine up to 3,500 RPM. I also removed the zinc so we could apply water from a hose directly on the cutlass bearing and I briefly shifted the transmission into forward and reverse at idle to make sure everything was connected correctly. It worked fine. Very smooth.

I have been thinking quite a bit about the rub rail and should I keep going and install it now. I’m still not sure. I am leaning to not doing it now. I may mill the iroko snd cut and glue the scarfs then see how I feel about it.

In the meantime we need to pull back the cover and wash the boat. I need to varnish the coaming and strip and varnish around the companionway.

Got plenty of small tasks to complete before we relaunch.

[John Stone]

Finally, I took the cover off the Far Reach. I climbed the mast and hauled up the hose and washed the mast and rigging with soap and water from the very top to the deck. Gayle did her normal great job safely belaying for me. Then we washed the deck and topsides, which she desperately needed. Sunlight poured through the port-lights and deck hatch. Gorgeous breeze blew through the boat. She cleaned up pretty well. I need to wax the topsides and knock out some varnish work. With the protective covering we had down over the cabin sole we had not seen the walnut planks in about 18 months. It was great. I think tomorrow we will temporarily put the cover back on while we varnish the coamings and companionway.

We might have her in the water next week. Wouldn’t that be nice....

[John Stone]

Spent the last few days varnishing the cockpit coamings. Got three coats applied. The spots where I made repairs in the fall of 2018 are visible but otherwise in good shape. It’s getting close to the point where I need to strip the coaming back to bare wood and start over. Mostly it’s visual under the repair as the surfaces and edges all seem to be tight. No breaks and no water intrusion. But I am going to avoid unnecessary projects that delay getting the boat under sail. The rub rail is in the same category. I could do it now. Maybe I should do it now. But baring some unforeseen event, I am going to wait till the next haul out time. I have sailed for six years without the rub rail and, knock wood, had no damage. We are exceptionally careful and except for our slip we don’t go along side docks or piers.

I ordered bottom paint from Defender. I have decided to pass on using hard paint for first coat and then ablative over the top. I think that strategy makes sense if you are determined to keep the boat in the water. But we seem to haul out for the summer more than I thought we would and hard paint does not like extended haul outs. So I plan to go with a coat of black Micron CSC followed by two coats of Micron CSC in red. The base coat will give me some warning when we need more paint.

Got a few places to touch up on the hull then hopefully start applying barrier coat tomorrow or Tuesday.

Can’t wait to get back in the water.

[Jim Walsh]

I think you are wise to finish up what is currently in the pipeline and go sailing. When I stripped my bottom I applied the barrier coats and laid down a coat of red ablative. My top coat(s) is blue ablative so when I sand the bottom every fall I have a guide to keep me from removing the barrier coat with overzealous sanding.

[John Stone]

I think you are wise to finish up what is currently in the pipeline and go sailing. When I stripped my bottom I applied the barrier coats and laid down a coat of red ablative. My top coat(s) is blue ablative so when I sand the bottom every fall I have a guide to keep me from removing the barrier coat with overzealous sanding.

Concur.

[John Stone]

Trying to bed a small piece of bronze I spent the day milling, filing, drilling. Cover some exposed teak endgrain part of gallows framing. Test fit. Taped everything up. End of the day. Hot and tired. Ready to install. Boat life teak color polysulfide. Never opened. Dried out all the way through end to end. Give what I pay for that stuff it should last 20 years. We can make an MRE last 10 years and we eat them. Dead in the water. Should have brought my trusty Dolphinite. Sent Boatlife an email. Had some unkind thoughts....arrgghh

The closer you get to launching the boat the harder it gets to make it to the water.

[Jim Walsh]

60MM mortar rounds....safe for use in populated areas......

[tjr818]

MREs have a short shelf life. C-rations last forever. We never had C-rations less than 20 years old. Stick with the Dolphinite.