Engine Installation on the Far Reach

[Jim Walsh]

Nice battery boxes and a neat installation.
When I replaced my batteries and added a second battery to my house bank I figured it was a good time to replace all my battery cables. I went strictly on the advice of a trusted mechanic in the boatyard who advised 1 AWG as an efficient practical size which also has great elasticity due to the greater number of strands than found in the next size down.
Yes, I know.....opinions are like noses.....everybody has one....

[John Stone]

I think #1 AWG is just too big for my boat. It’s more expensive, the ferrules cost more, the bend radius is greater, and it requires I drill bigger holes. I could actually get away with #4. I was thinking today the only thing I have changed on my boat (other than install the inboard diesel) is I added LED nav lights and a depth sounder. I feel like I have way over done the new electrical system as it is.

Today I installed the Automatic Charge Relay in the foot of the Q berth compartment. Both start and house banks have a positive cable going to the ACR. It is supposed to be extraordinarily reliable. It quietly does its job without any fussing. I hope so. I also installed the main negative bus under the foot of the quarter berth. It took way too long to decide that. I considered every possibility. It seems the best option. Out of the way, protected, easy enough to get to, etc. I moved the Victron shunt forward next to the T105s. In the attached photo you you can see the main neg buss at the back of the Q berth and can just see Victron next to it’s little red positive wire that will go to the house pos terminal. The shunt is supposed to be close to the supporting battery (in this case the house bank) and is inline on the neg house on its way to the panel bus up under the companionway.

I drilled some 3/4l holes. Filled the grain with epoxy. Spent a lot of time scratching my head and eliminating options till I basically figured out how to run the battery cables. I checked out the crimper tool and made sure it has the right die. They guys at the boatyard are loaning it to me. I should be buying cable tomorrow and start running the wire.

[John Stone]

A couple long days. All the wiring is installed. It took a while to figure out the best path for each wire. I have never done this before so slow and steady was the motto. #2 gauge for everything except the jumper from the battery switch to the panel. It’s a 4 gauge. I went with the new ABYC standard red and yellow for DC. The boat yard loaned me a big crimper so that was nice of them. Lots wire stripping and crimping and adhesive heat shrinking. I might need a few more rubber clamps and a couple zip ties but I am in pretty good shape. All the positives are connected. The battery switch is off. The negatives are not connected so the system is not energized. I did connect the series wire for the two 6v T 105 and checked the SOC: 12.5. So need to charge it. The start battery is at 12.6. These batteries are off off the store floor and have been sitting for a month.

I need to connect the engine wiring harness which is in place and ready to connect. Add fluids to the engine. Install the throttle and test run the engine. Maybe by the end of the week. I’ve been at this for about 18 months. I don’t want to rush at the end but slow down a bit and be careful and thoughtful so I don’t forget something or fail to double check something important. I am the QC officer. I’d only have myself to blame.

[Frenchy]

Very impressive, John. Beautiful, outstanding job. - Jean

[billsimmeth]

You sir, do fine work! Incredibly tidy job. Carry on.

[John Stone]

Jean and Bill, thanks for the kind words. I’m no expert when it comes to electrical. I have had some great advice from someone I trust and who embraces my keep it simple philosophy. I feel pretty good about it, though I’m sure I’ll hold my breath when I flip the switch the first time....

[John Stone]

I hesitated today because I want to be sure about the throttle location. What seems like the best place is a significant compromise. I need to be clear in my head about what I am doing. I measured for control cables and wouldn’t you know the consignment shop that supports Jarett Bay Boatworks had two 8’ Teleflex C33 wire control cables 10 years old but still in the box. I snagged them.

I decided to practice the cuts for the throttle control in a piece of off cut birch ply I found at the boatyard. This is pretty much last thing to do before we work the check list for starting the engine.

I need to install the squeeze bulb in the fuel line. I know, not specifically permitted by ABYC. But that’s what I’m doing.

My head hurt from reading about battery chargers for the last month. So I called Odyssey Batteries who makes the AGM batteries we want to install in our Jeep Wrangler JLUR. Why can’t we get a charger that charges AGMs and the deep cycle Trojans. I read more crap on line with infinite opinions. About as clear as mud. The tech rep at Oddysey called me back after I left a message. Turns out SHE worked for Trojan for 13 years. I learned more in 10 min from her than I had in 10 hours of reading. Turns out the Odyssey Charger will charge to 14.7v which is exactly what Trojan wants. But the Odyssey charger does not have the higher voltage required for equalizing the Trojans. BUT...she said you probably don’t need to equalize them unless you routinely deeply discharge them or if you have a cell out of whack. Baring a major problem I don’t see me discharging them much at all. And I won’t carry a charger with me offshore or out voyaging anyway. So that was a very interesting and helpful conversation.

[John Stone]

Cut the hole in the cockpit. Forgot to take a picture of the hole for the face plate ir the installed face plate itself. I got the shifter in though. Drill and tapped holes to secure it in place. Got the cables connected and all the little do-dads and clips and what nots cobbled together. It took a little while to figure it out. Men spend there whole lives picking up little skills for moments like this. That’s what I tell myself anyway.

Tomorrow I’ll connect the cables to the engine and bed the face plate with butyl etc. Should be able to start up the engine in a couple days.

[Keith]

Anticipation!!!!!

[John Stone]

Shifter installed. Cables connected. Cables clamped. Beta wiring harness connected and clamped. Oil Added. Coolant added. Transmission fluids checked. Need to add some diesel and bled the fuel line. Connect the negative cables on batteries. Recheck all fittings. Energize the electrical system.

We are there. Tomorrow or Monday. “Let’s light this candle.” But without all the fire and explosions.

[csoule13]

Really excited for you John. I'm never going to tackle something like this, but I learn a ton of stuff watching how you work through various parts of this. It also gives some confidence that some of the ancillary skills are less out of reach than one might think.

Those neat, tidy electrical cable runs are just so calming, too.

Chris

[ghockaday]

Beautiful work. That has taken a lot of time. dee

[John Stone]

Well, there’s good news and bad news. The good news is I energized the electrical system and everything seems to be working. The battery monitor, the lights, and the instrument panel. I turned the key to run and it just lit up and the buzzer sounded. Yay! LOL.

The bad news is I failed to start the engine. I put five gallons of diesel in the tank. I primed the racor filter. I worked the lift pump but did not get fuel to the bleed valve. I installed the squeeze bulb between the tank and the racor. Nothing. No fuel is coming from the tank. I checked the ball valves and made sure all the hose clamps were tight. I checked the Racor to make sure so didn’t get the in and out ports reversed. I checked to make sure I didn’t get the return line and fuel line reversed. Nothing, I emptied the racor twice and all the squeeze bulb delivered to the racor was air.

I worked on it till 1800. It was time to go home. I’m disappointed but it’s just a problem to be worked and solved, like any other problem. So, tomorrow I will check to see there there is in fact a pick-up tube in the tank—wouldn’t that be something? Then I’ll by-pass the tank cut off valve which is a foot above the tank and take the fuel line straight to the primer squeeze bulb and see if it can pull fuel. Maybe because the tank cut-off valve is about 30” above the current 5 gallon level of fuel in the 19.5 gallon tank there is too much head pressure to overcome. I don’t know.

I am open to ideas.

[John Stone]

Really excited for you John. I'm never going to tackle something like this, but I learn a ton of stuff watching how you work through various parts of this. It also gives some confidence that some of the ancillary skills are less out of reach than one might think.

Those neat, tidy electrical cable runs are just so calming, too.

Chris

Beautiful work. That has taken a lot of time. dee

Thanks. I appreciate the kind words. None of this stuff is that hard. You just have to want to do it, be persistent, be patient, be committed to the outcome you envision, and be your own worst critic. I think determination is the most important characteristic of success. The actual technical sills are very straight forward.

[Frenchy]

On the lift pump, there's quite a bit of free movement where nothing will happen. You have to press hard after you've
hit bottom, then you can feel the pump working. Also, you might have to turn the crankshaft a bit if the pump's lever
is on the high point of the cam that activates it.
Chances are you know about all this, John - but it doesn't hurt to mention it. - Jean