Engine Installation on the Far Reach

[John Stone]

You’re doing that engine room proud. (Diesel engines don’t smell, they exude confidence)

I love a diesel, I have had VW diesels since sometime in the 80s. I still have a Golf TDI, sometimes I will sit and listen to her idle. It is a peaceful sound. Kind of like the African Queen.

I bet John could figure out a way for me to get a 100 HP VW Turbo Diesel in my CD30. It would probably have to be mid-engine, maybe put a saddle on it. It gets over 50mpg.

I also enjoy watching John's craftsmanship. Dennis

I don’t care what anyone says. That’s funny.

[John Stone]

I needed to box in the work bench drawer so it will be integrated into the top of the engine box. The work top is hinged. It will also have quick disconnects so it can be easily removed for maximum engine access.

The reason for the drawer box is to allow me to secure insulation and sound proving to it since the SS drawer would other wise be exposed to direct engine heat.

The large maple frame allows the engine access panel to be pushed back to it and secured snugly in place.

I’ll need to varnish the finger hole which I also drilled today. Varnish for the hole will wait till later.

[John Stone]

I checked the fit of the workbench with integrated drawer box. The box will allow me to insulated the drawer from the engine compartment. The fit was very good.

I also took measurements for the front access panel and thought some more about how it might lock into position though I am a little vexed about the latches.

I also installed the bottom petcock on the racor filter.

[John Stone]

Cut, taped, test fitted the soundown insulation. Plan to secure with SS panheads and fender washers. No glue.

Getting close.

[ghockaday]

You do very thorough work. Dennis

[Jim Walsh]

Nice work. I’d never heard of Soundown insulation so I looked it up on the web. Wondering which product you chose....is it the vinyl foam barrier composite or another type?
I still have the original Cape Dory product which is really a heat barrier more than a sound barrier. I’ve thought it might be most effective, with my severely restricted space, to apply one of the self adhesive automotive barriers since they are thinner and designed to reduce the heat generated by large power plants and the sound from minimally restricted exhaust systems.
Certainly not high on my list of priorities but any improvement would be a large improvement.

[John Stone]

Nice work. I’d never heard of Soundown insulation so I looked it up on the web. Wondering which product you chose....is it the vinyl foam barrier composite or another type?
I still have the original Cape Dory product which is really a heat barrier more than a sound barrier. I’ve thought it might be most effective, with my severely restricted space, to apply one of the self adhesive automotive barriers since they are thinner and designed to reduce the heat generated by large power plants and the sound from minimally restricted exhaust systems.
Certainly not high on my list of priorities but any improvement would be a large improvement.

Jim, it is the 1” thick vinyl/foam composite barrier. There is a 1/8” thick flexible vinyl sheet sandwiched between two different kinds of foam. Not that many years ago it was a lead sheet between the foam. The vinyl is “safer” I guess. Anyway, it’s supposed to contain heat and reduce noise. I was told by someone with a lot of experience using it that it’s a good product but don’t expect dramatic results.

I may not get back to the boat for two more days. If the weather cooperates I plan on installing the engine next week. It’s been a long time coming.

Dennis, thanks for the kind words. It’s taken me long enough....

[Steve Laume]

I used 1" silver faced Soundownd On Raven quite a few years ago. It did make a difference and was easy to install. I did not glue or screw it. I fit it pretty snugly and then used silver foil HVAC tape to hold it in place all around the edges and over the spacer blocks for the filters. Instead of an absolutely perfect fit with taped edges and screws, I taped onto the face and the surrounding structure. It is extremely hard to see the difference between the tape and the foil face. The tape also allows you to create an edge wherever you want it to be as well as shielding any wood in the engine compartment from heat, dirt and odors.

It has never come loose and has held up well overall. If it were ever to be damaged it is easy to put a piece of tape over it or even cut out a patch and tape it in. So far I have had no issues even with the back side of the engine cover. This is a project that is well worth doing and does make a difference, Steve.

[John Stone]

I used 1" silver faced Soundownd On Raven quite a few years ago. It did make a difference and was easy to install. I did not glue or screw it. I fit it pretty snugly and then used silver foil HVAC tape to hold it in place all around the edges and over the spacer blocks for the filters. Instead of an absolutely perfect fit with taped edges and screws, I taped onto the face and the surrounding structure. It is extremely hard to see the difference between the tape and the foil face. The tape also allows you to create an edge wherever you want it to be as well as shielding any wood in the engine compartment from heat, dirt and odors.

It has never come loose and has held up well overall. If it were ever to be damaged it is easy to put a piece of tape over it or even cut out a patch and tape it in. So far I have had no issues even with the back side of the engine cover. This is a project that is well worth doing and does make a difference, Steve.

Steve, seems like a good technique. I might do that. Thanks.

[wikakaru]

...it’s supposed to contain heat and reduce noise. I was told by someone with a lot of experience using it that it’s a good product but don’t expect dramatic results.

At least as important as the insulation itself is eliminating "sound leaks"--holes where sound can escape the engine compartment. Most sailboats have an unobstructed bilge between the engine room and main cabin where lots of sound escapes and comes up through the cabin sole. Also aft, where the transmission/prop shaft runs, there is usually a connection to the cockpit lockers, and you get noise by that route.

Sealed engine rooms are only a dream for most sailors. Alas, if you have an engine, you are going to have engine noise.

Smooth sailing,

--Jim

[John Stone]

Ready to drill for the engine feet.

Problem. I can’t drill the port side feet once the engine is installed. The engine is too close to the bulkhead. I can’t get in there with the drill and tap. What to do?

I returned to the engine template I used to install the engine beds. To be as sure as possible I remeasured. Everything. Several times. I checked the engine drawings against the actual engine now sitting in my garage.

I purchased a 5’ long 1” OD fiberglass tube from McMaster Carr. I inserted the shaft bearing into the log about an inch. I installed the mock up shaft. It slid through the Johnson bearing and right out through the stuffing box nut perfectly. I ran a string through the shaft with the string secured through a hole centered in the plug and taped to the outboard end of the shaft. I pulled the string snug from inside the boat and secured to a cross member forward of the engine. I centered the string in the tube. The string represents the shaft axis. I set the engine template with feet attached to it along with forward and aft alignment plates (representing the shaft axis) onto the engine beds. The string rides perfectly in the notches.

I marked the holes in the feet for the 3/8” bolts.

Tomorrow I will return after a good nights sleep, remove the engine template and drill and tap the holes for the port side feet. I’ll hold off on drilling for the starboard feet until the engine is in the boat with the shaft and coupling aligned.

Should work. Right? Stay tuned to find out if John will be happy or sad.

[wikakaru]

Ready to drill for the engine feet.

Problem. I can’t drill the port side feet once the engine is installed. The engine is too close to the bulkhead. I can’t get in there with the drill and tap. What to do?

I returned to the engine template I used to install the engine beds. To be as sure as possible I remeasured. Everything. Several times. I checked the engine drawings against the actual engine now sitting in my garage.

I purchased a 5’ long 1” OD fiberglass tube from McMaster Carr. I inserted the shaft bearing into the log about an inch. I installed the mock up shaft. It slid through the Johnson bearing and right out through the stuffing box nut perfectly. I ran a string through the shaft with the string secured through a hole centered in the plug and taped to the outboard end of the shaft. I pulled the string snug from inside the boat and secured to a cross member forward of the engine. I centered the string in the tube. The string represents the shaft axis. I set the engine template with feet attached to it along with forward and aft alignment plates (representing the shaft axis) onto the engine beds. The string rides perfectly in the notches.

I marked the holes in the feet for the 3/8” bolts.

Tomorrow I will return after a good nights sleep, remove the engine template and drill and tap the holes for the port side feet. I’ll hold off on drilling for the starboard feet until the engine is in the boat with the shaft and coupling aligned.

Should work. Right? Stay tuned to find out if John will be happy or sad.

I suspect your measurements are spot-on, John, but if they aren't, don't you have "wiggle room" slots in the mounts in case you're off by a tad? Or if you are really worried, could you drop the engine in place, mark the beds, remove the engine, and then drill? I'm not sure what kind of arrangement you have in mind for lifting the engine--whether you are using your halyards and a boom or spinnaker pole, for example, or if you are hiring a crane. Obviously if you are hiring a crane it might be too expensive to be fiddling around getting the engine in and out a couple of times. Just a thought.

Smooth sailing,

--Jim

[Steve Laume]

I would imagine you are using a beam and some sort of trolley to move and lower the engine into place. It really is pretty easy to set the engine on the beds and then move it out of the way again. The template was probably great for building the beds but when it comes to bolting down the mounts I'm not sure I would count on it.

Sometimes there is nothing like the real thing, Steve.

[John Stone]

There is a little wiggle room in the slots. Not much.

We are using a high lift fork lift with a chain fall. So I don’t want to spend a lot of time messing around with a lift I am paying for.

I have considered building a ramp I can slide the engine back and forth on and off the beds or even a couple cross beams over the companionway. All a hassle if not necessary. Each have their own problems.

With the engine up against that bulkhead there is no way I can see to work around it.

It’s a calculated risk to drill the holes off the template. I’m not guessing though. I’m confident it’s accurate. I’ll know soon enough. I’m headed to the boat now. I’ll think about it some more before I drill the holes.

Film at 11.

[John Stone]

Port side holes drilled and tapped. Nothing to it. Drilled the first hole without the template in place. Used the pencil mark From yesterday. 1/4” bit, with small right angle plywood guide, down through biaxial, G10, silicon bronze. Chased that with a 5/16” drill bit. Then tapped with 3/8-16 tapered tap followed by a plunge (blind) tap. With the first hole completed I put the template back down. Lined up on the string (it does not lie) and drilled the other three holes about 1/4” down. Removed the template so I had more room, then completed the drilling for each hole in sequence same as first hole.

With the holes drilled and tapped I put the template back down and installed all four bolts loosely to check it against the string. Dead on.

I’m feeling kinda sassy. Might just knock out the starboard side tomorrow and be done with it. Small chance I could screw it up...but I don’t think so.

Go big or go home. Dang, I am feeling cheeky....