Midship Cleats, Suitable For Storm Lines

[hilbert]

I hope the teak block is big enough for both.

John, there looks to be enough material to use for the base of two cleats. Holes can be filled with epoxy thickened with wood flour and no one will pay any attention to it.

I finished installing the starboard cleat yesterday. The block isn't the full length of the cleat, at only 3" x 5" x 1".
The holes in the block and deck were countersunk and I bedded it with butyl tape:


Location will always be a compromise on a boat. The optimal position will vary depending on the intended purpose.
The position that I chose is actually a bit aft of midships. I think that this will work well for forward spring lines at the finger piers that we have locally.

On the underside it seems too much to fill with epoxy, for a even surface for the backing plate but another 6" piece of g-10 cost about $50.

You can fill in the space with a less expensive material than G10. If properly bedded, the underside will remain dry so even wood or plywood will do in a pinch.
An alternative is to cut your G10 into strips and back the inner and outer bolts separately.

[Steve Laume]

That should work out very well for you.

Before you start using it, you might add a length of brass half oval to the top of the toe rail. Even with the cleat raised up, the lines will scuff up or chew at your toe rail if it is unprotected.

Nice job, Steve.

[JD-MDR]

Funny, I have the exact same cleats as Jonathon, I founds them stowed on the boat. I will use a piece of fiberglass sheet form Carr/ Mac. its only $8 per sq.ft. or I could probably use some of the scrap hull liner that I saved. The reason I'm considering putting the cleats a little forward is because from my experience it seem to be the easiest place to reach a piling and the current will still pull the boat nicely along side. I don't know. I am going to take your guys advise and put them midship. I won't be tying to too many pilings.

[JD-MDR]

That should work out very well for you.

Before you start using it, you might add a length of brass half oval to the top of the toe rail. Even with the cleat raised up, the lines will scuff up or chew at your toe rail if it is unprotected.

Nice job, Steve.

Hi Steve, Do you know where to get the bronze or brass rub strake. I can't find it. Only SS. Thanks John D

[Jim Walsh]

That should work out very well for you.

Before you start using it, you might add a length of brass half oval to the top of the toe rail. Even with the cleat raised up, the lines will scuff up or chew at your toe rail if it is unprotected.

Nice job, Steve.

Hi Steve, Do you know where to get the bronze or brass rub strake. I can't find it. Only SS. Thanks John D

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.c ... &top_cat=0
This is an online source but you should have brick and mortar metal supply businesses close to home. Just drill the fastening holes where they best suit your application. Several sizes are available.

[John Stone]

Hi Jim and John,
That's a great source. I recommend you consider half oval instead of the half round. The profile is a little lower and it's easier to countersink the fastener heads so they don't leave sharp edges. I would use slotted oval head bronze wood screws.

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.c ... top_cat=79

[JD-MDR]

You guys are great. I was wondering about the half round. I didn't see half oval at first. I got it. I got three feet so a 18" piece on each side. $12 and $18 for shipping. I couldn't find any local places.

[JD-MDR]

Hi Jim and John,
That's a great source. I recommend you consider half oval instead of the half round. The profile is a little lower and it's easier to countersink the fastener heads so they don't leave sharp edges. I would use slotted oval head bronze wood screws.

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.c ... top_cat=79

Hilbert, I wish I had the oval head screws but I have a 100pk. of flatheads #10 silicon bronze from Jamestown Distributors. I will file over everything after I mount them. My parts came in yesterday for my Force 10 stove: a new spark ignitor box and propane regulator and 25' fuel supply hose. I'm having second thoughts about buying the 2nd hand aluminum tank from the consignment store. I think I will get a new composite tank and just keep it on the stern for now. I guess that means I should get the electric solenoid. I sometimes tie a bucket there on the stern and put cushions for a backrest. Its real easy and comfortable to sit there and steer. The propane tank might serve that purpose. So it's seeming that after The windvane is in I should build a locker for the tanks. Not a priority. It will be nice to have the gimbaled stove. It doesn't seem like much but When I'm tired its a big hassle to get out the coleman and hook up the bottles and I have to stand right there to hold the pot down, even at anchor sometimes the pot goes sliding off. sometimes the whole stove.

[JD-MDR]

Dang it, I feel like I just wasted my time and $50. I made the rubrails 18". I dont think they will do any good unless The dock has a cleat near midship. I set them
Aft a little for my slip but if I go to tie up head into the current and need the spring lines from forward its even worse. I think they should be 30".Oh well. I got my stove hooked up. New composite tank,lines,regulator. I dont think this stove has had much use. Its really clean. I still need solenoid.and a way to mount the tank. Im gonna be in trouble. Spending money I dont have. I better take a break and go back to volunteer work for a while.It always even things out.

[Steve Laume]

You could move the short pieces to the stern cleats. I have a piece there so that I can go straight over the toe rail instead of going through the stern chock when at a short dock. I have always bought half oval from Jamestown Distributors and they ship 6' lengths which are easy to cut into 3' sections. I have installed that stuff all over Raven in various sizes to protect from chafe wherever lines tend to run over teak.

You probably placed your screw holes much closer than needed. There isn't much stress on the fasteners as they are just holding the brass in place with very little strain on them, Steve.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks Steve, I didn't see brass at Jamestown D. I might do what you said someday or maybe butt the two together and buy another 30" piece for the other side. To tell you the truth. This boat is 40 years old and there is no wear on the toerails . I think I could have done without , at least for the rest of my life. I just thought when I get to the Pacific Northwest the tides and currents will be much greater and these will be good protection.

[Steve Laume]

If you are going to renew your bright work, one night of chafe will make a mess of it. The teak is fairly abrasion resistant but not the finish. Any little break in the surface will create problems that some half oval could have prevented. Plus it looks good and shows that you care about your boat and her brightwork, Steve.