Cape Dory Dink 7'7" any owners out there?

[sharkbait]

De nada Bob:

There is no telling what their source was. They made a bulk buy of all the bronze from a facility. that closed.

[David Patterson]

Bob, I hope your project with Dink 109 is going well. Please catch us up. I've just taken possession of my 7 1/2, number 66. I haven't searched for the hull numbers, so don't know when she was built. I towed her back to my 25D while rowing my old dinghy. My only impressions are that she slips easily thru the water, has a higher bow than I expected, will let me sit (155lbs) in the stern or bow and stay dry, and that she is in pretty good shape. The equipment for sailing came along with her, but the board does not drop. I'll turn her over on a beach. I hope the board is there! I didn't look, for the PO and I just moved her from truck to water. Her wood is unaccountably dry for this climate. She may have been in an overly warm storage spot. The wood has also seemingly been stripped. Her oars are uselessly short, at 5' or less. That's really all I know about at the moment. I'll post some photos, below, that I took when we put her in at the Boat Haven, Port Townsend. David, aboard CLOUD GIRL, Port Townsend

[Bob Parsons]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the update and photos of your new Dink!
Sure is a pretty paint job.
This summer has been pretty busy so I have not gotten any further than doing a bit of prep work on the mahogany rails and the seat.
My guess is that the seat is probably spruce, and mine appears never painted or varnished... weathers to a very pretty gray if you let it be!
I'll be interested to hear about your centerboard, as you know mine is out and stripped to the bare wood, my winter project will be to rebuild it.

I have not even put Crouton the water yet!

[David Patterson]

Bob, I'll try to give a report now and then. I think she will slip thru the water like a knife. My wood is certainly not teak and I doubt will weather to grey. I intend to give it oil to drink first, then figure out a finish. I've no skills with identifying or finishing woods. I'll use it almost daily, usually, so will have that info to share. Good luck with the rest of the summer. By the way, I'm considering calling her LAGNIAPPE, a name longer than she is. David

[Bob Parsons]

Lagniappe, a great word and excellent name for your Dink!

[David Patterson]

I now have little more experience with the dinghy, having rowed her for two miles or more. The seat arrangement is similar to that of the Lyle Hess Fatty Knees in that a center line seat allows variable rowing positions. With some longer oars she is nearly effortless in calm waters, and tracks perfectly. On a dock I pulled her out and turned her over. With her high freeboard I was able to get her up on a two foot high dock without shipping any water. Her 110lb weight was no problem. Easy out; easy in. The bottom needs paint, with no gel coat gouges. Real bottom paint, for she will live afloat. The board was gritty when I pulled it free, the edge worn from beach landings. If there is room, an edge guard of bronze or stainless looks to be a good idea. I don't know how far down the board should drop. Any info on that, Bob? Info on line is practically non-existent. How valuable an original brochure would be, if there even was one. How do you plan to finish your board? It looks to be decent quality marine plywood. I'm wondering if adding a bit more weight to the board would be useful.

[tjr818]

David,
Excellant photography , as always. In that last photo the knot securing the pendant seems to be quite dirty, Is it rubbing or jamming in the slot? Perhaps there was a smaller line or a wire pendant originally.

[David Patterson]

Definitely some dirt and grit in there, Tim. I think that cord and knot are original. Looks like what half a century does to stuff. I'm planning to remove the board at a dock today so that I can work on it. I'll change the line when I remount the board. I'm still trying to find info about the boat, especially rigging and sailing characteristics. Duckworks magazine has a couple of old articles about the CD10 and its sailing problems, complete with a way to move the mast and put a Samson post in the old step. I don't know if the Dink has similar mast placement issues or not. I need to find out board depth when down, and work to get reefing points in the sail. One of the sail slides is gone. A pin is missing where the mast sections join. The mast and boom are in very good condition, as are rudder and tiller. The wood is looking better to me today and will be easy to dismount for finishing. Someone has filled in the weep hole in front of the breast hook, etc. Plenty to do. Not to mention an anti-marine-growth bottom paint suitable to these waters. David in PT

[David Patterson]

A last post on that centerboard, which I unshipped at a dock today. The glued on dirt that kept it from dropping can be seen top right. An insect colony? The pivot point is damaged, the bushing broken and a chunk of wood loosened. There is also some delamination along the board edges. Good thing I got it out of the water. Curious to know if it floats, I put the board in the brine while holding on to the board's line. It does. A bit of bright paint on that top corner may make recovery easier if the board ever drops out. I've measured, and a pair of 7' oars will fit inboard, maybe even allowing me to use the handy Edson bronze oar-locking device I have been using on the previous dinghy. If I'm able to mount that device, I'll picture it. Keeps me from worrying that I'll come back from a hike ashore to an oarless dinghy.

[Bob Parsons]

Hi Dave,

It sure would be nice to find a brochure or even better an owners manual!
The best I've found are a couple of 1968 boat show adverts introducing the Dink.

My centerboard is entirely different design.
The pendant attaches to a screw so there is no loop or knot, also attachment point quite high on the board.
The pivot point latch detaches from the board, you must have a removable pin?
The weight is aft, not sure that would make a difference in how it drops.

[David Patterson]

Bob, thanks. Since you have 109 and I have 66, I'm assuming your board is an improved version. With the weight higher it must drop more easily and farther. Judging by the length of the pennant your board may drop down farther, perhaps even vertically. Do you know the position it is in for sailing? That's a crucial question to me now. Thanks for the photos. I'll study them. David

[Bob Parsons]

Hi Dave,

Maybe a running design change... but shape of your board doesn't seem to match sketches I've seen of CD10 boards... assuming Dink is similar.
At any rate, I made a quick temporary aluminum fix to my pivot hardware and here are a couple if pictures.
The board drops straight down.

Cheers,

[David Patterson]

Bob, thank you. The photos are very helpful. Looks like I should shift the pennant attachment point to the pivot end of the board, and maybe cut away a corner of the board to prevent binding. Otherwise the board shape is the same. Also, I may wish to put some extra weight on the aft lower corner of the board to help it drop and stay down. Interesting differences in our boards. I assumed it needed to end up vertical for sailing. Very clarifying for me. David

[Skeep]

The most fascinating "crouton" I've ever laid my eyes on! What a great little bitty tale of a boat!

[David Patterson]

My CD Dink (tentatively named LAGNIAPPE) under tow as I sail across Juan de Fuca Strait in a Force 2 following wind. In my opinion she needs a lower bow shackle to help her tow better in choppy waters. Maybe I should have towed her farther back than 25'. She doesn't take on water (yet) over the high freeboard; she did take on some water thru the centerboard trunk. Her board was out. Perhaps I'll bed the seats over the slot, in 4200. She is pretty chatty back there, when the boat makes three knots or more.