I've thoroughly enjoyed my first season with my 78 CD27. I'm now creating that ol' "to-do" list which will inevtiably include re-bedding all of the deck fittings to stop leaks.
However, in the mean time I notice that water tends to pond up along the toe rail in the stern quarters of both port and starboards sides of the boat.
There are scupper holes in roughly the right places relative to the standing water, but they appear to be slighty higher than the deck level, so that last little bit of water doesn't flow out.
Is this characteristic of the 27, all CD's, or just my boat?
If the former, any fixes? Is it as simple as routing out a slightly larger scupper?
Jeff
jschmoye@pepsi.com
Pools of Water on Deck
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Bill Goldsmith
Re: Pools of Water on Deck
Jeff:
I have almost the same issue with my CD27 (#172, 1980). I haven't noticed that the weepholes are too high. Rather, on mine, the water tends to pool aft of the aftmost weephole. I suspect it is because the boat was repowered with a heavier engine, and probably sits a bit squat on its lines. I plan to cut a new weephole on each side this winter. Last week I took a hose nozzle and sprayed right into the weepholes. Out came a) varnish b) dirt and c) a little plastic LEGO man (I have three young boys). I had not thought to check for clogging before that. It drains a bit better after that but it still needs another weephole farther aft. I may also anlarge the existing weepholes a bit to discourage clogging.:
Bill Goldsmith
CD27#172
Second Chance
goldy@bestweb.net
I have almost the same issue with my CD27 (#172, 1980). I haven't noticed that the weepholes are too high. Rather, on mine, the water tends to pool aft of the aftmost weephole. I suspect it is because the boat was repowered with a heavier engine, and probably sits a bit squat on its lines. I plan to cut a new weephole on each side this winter. Last week I took a hose nozzle and sprayed right into the weepholes. Out came a) varnish b) dirt and c) a little plastic LEGO man (I have three young boys). I had not thought to check for clogging before that. It drains a bit better after that but it still needs another weephole farther aft. I may also anlarge the existing weepholes a bit to discourage clogging.:
Bill Goldsmith
CD27#172
Second Chance
I've thoroughly enjoyed my first season with my 78 CD27. I'm now creating that ol' "to-do" list which will inevtiably include re-bedding all of the deck fittings to stop leaks.
However, in the mean time I notice that water tends to pond up along the toe rail in the stern quarters of both port and starboards sides of the boat.
There are scupper holes in roughly the right places relative to the standing water, but they appear to be slighty higher than the deck level, so that last little bit of water doesn't flow out.
Is this characteristic of the 27, all CD's, or just my boat?
If the former, any fixes? Is it as simple as routing out a slightly larger scupper?
Jeff
goldy@bestweb.net
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Ed Haley
Re: Pools of Water on Deck
A heavier engine than one that was designed for your craft does more than pool water at the aft toerails. It also raises the bow and squats in the stern spoiling the hydrodynamics of your vessel. Your CD27 may, in fact, have a different and heavier engine than one that was designed for it. That makes the stern heavy and the bow light. Ask Larry DeMers who gave me the skinny. Larry suggested placing about 200 lbs (3 bags) of sand under the bow berths to accomplish the leveling along the waterline. It worked for me. In fact, I should add another 100 lbs. under the bow berth since I do not fill the water tanks. After I did this, I gained speed and comfort while beating across Lake Ontario. I also did well racing my CD28.
Hey, check it out. Put some bags of sand on top of your bunks. At worst you can dump the sand back into the lake.
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
Hey, check it out. Put some bags of sand on top of your bunks. At worst you can dump the sand back into the lake.
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
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Bill Goldsmith
Re: Pools of Water on Deck
>> Your CD27 may, in fact, have a different and heavier engine than one that was designed for it.
No question about that. A few years ago a prior owner repowered with a Yanmar 2GM20F. The boat was previously moored on the Shinnecock Canal on Long Island, NY, which explains the repower. That canal develops a peak 5 to 6 knot southbound current at high tide (when the automatic gates open downstream), headed directly toward a low fixed bridge!!! With the Yanmar, the prior owner no doubt was able to outrun the current or at least get to safety. Does anyone know what CD typically would have installed in the factory in 1980? A one cylinder Volvo? The Yanmar weighs about 200 lbs. Does anyone have a weight spec on the One cylinder Volvo?
>>>>>> Hey, check it out. Put some bags of sand on top of your bunks. At worst you can dump the sand back into the lake.
Ed, why do you think your 28 squats? Did your CD have a repower as well??
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #172
Second Chance
goldy@bestweb.net
No question about that. A few years ago a prior owner repowered with a Yanmar 2GM20F. The boat was previously moored on the Shinnecock Canal on Long Island, NY, which explains the repower. That canal develops a peak 5 to 6 knot southbound current at high tide (when the automatic gates open downstream), headed directly toward a low fixed bridge!!! With the Yanmar, the prior owner no doubt was able to outrun the current or at least get to safety. Does anyone know what CD typically would have installed in the factory in 1980? A one cylinder Volvo? The Yanmar weighs about 200 lbs. Does anyone have a weight spec on the One cylinder Volvo?
>>>>>> Hey, check it out. Put some bags of sand on top of your bunks. At worst you can dump the sand back into the lake.
Ed, why do you think your 28 squats? Did your CD have a repower as well??
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #172
Second Chance
goldy@bestweb.net
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Olli Wendelin
Re: Pools of Water on Deck
Jeff,
My scuppers always seemed to be clogged when I went down to the boat. This spring I doubled the size of each slot with a dremel tool and wood bit. I also brought each slot down to deck level, removing bedding compound, etc. No problems since. This is easier to do from outboard (dock or dingy) that while kneeling on the deck.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
My scuppers always seemed to be clogged when I went down to the boat. This spring I doubled the size of each slot with a dremel tool and wood bit. I also brought each slot down to deck level, removing bedding compound, etc. No problems since. This is easier to do from outboard (dock or dingy) that while kneeling on the deck.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
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Don S.
Re: Pools of Water on Deck
Ed,
The 7HP Penta (the precursor to the Volvo MD1) I threw out of my old boat weighed 398lbs.
Don Sargeant
~~Coquina~~
CD25D #189
The 7HP Penta (the precursor to the Volvo MD1) I threw out of my old boat weighed 398lbs.
Don Sargeant
~~Coquina~~
CD25D #189
>> Your CD27 may, in fact, have a different and heavier engine than one that was designed for it.
No question about that. A few years ago a prior owner repowered with a Yanmar 2GM20F. The boat was previously moored on the Shinnecock Canal on Long Island, NY, which explains the repower. That canal develops a peak 5 to 6 knot southbound current at high tide (when the automatic gates open downstream), headed directly toward a low fixed bridge!!! With the Yanmar, the prior owner no doubt was able to outrun the current or at least get to safety. Does anyone know what CD typically would have installed in the factory in 1980? A one cylinder Volvo? The Yanmar weighs about 200 lbs. Does anyone have a weight spec on the One cylinder Volvo?
>>>>>> Hey, check it out. Put some bags of sand on top of your bunks. At worst you can dump the sand back into the lake.
Ed, why do you think your 28 squats? Did your CD have a repower as well??
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #172
Second Chance
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Larry DeMers
Re: Pools of Water on Deck
It's not that the boat was necessarily repowered..but htat Cape Dory had several engines that they used over the years, and they did. Unfortunately, they did not offset the heavier Volvo MD7A&B's that they did use in the 27 and 30 for the Yanmar which some boats did get, along with a Universal diesel. I know of probably 6 examples..none of which are known to have been repowered.
Try that sand bag trick..it worked for me just great. As I posted previously, my wife and I have added up probably 10-12 improvements that adding $6.00 worth of sand has made..some are major in nature..like stove priming better (spilling less alcohol in the process), drainage of the scuppers along the toe rails,etc.
Larry Demers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
Try that sand bag trick..it worked for me just great. As I posted previously, my wife and I have added up probably 10-12 improvements that adding $6.00 worth of sand has made..some are major in nature..like stove priming better (spilling less alcohol in the process), drainage of the scuppers along the toe rails,etc.
Larry Demers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
>> Your CD27 may, in fact, have a different and heavier engine than one that was designed for it.
No question about that. A few years ago a prior owner repowered with a Yanmar 2GM20F. The boat was previously moored on the Shinnecock Canal on Long Island, NY, which explains the repower. That canal develops a peak 5 to 6 knot southbound current at high tide (when the automatic gates open downstream), headed directly toward a low fixed bridge!!! With the Yanmar, the prior owner no doubt was able to outrun the current or at least get to safety. Does anyone know what CD typically would have installed in the factory in 1980? A one cylinder Volvo? The Yanmar weighs about 200 lbs. Does anyone have a weight spec on the One cylinder Volvo?
>>>>>> Hey, check it out. Put some bags of sand on top of your bunks. At worst you can dump the sand back into the lake.
Ed, why do you think your 28 squats? Did your CD have a repower as well??
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #172
Second Chance
demers@sgi.com
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Stove Prime....
Larry,
On Hanalei I found a great way to prime the Seaward alcohol stove & oven. If you go to a plumbing supply store and buy a bottle of "Snoop" (a soap solution used to check for gas leaks), the bottle it comes in has an extendable tube for directing the stream. Dump out the Snoop, fill it with alcohol, and when you want to prime the stove, direct the tubing at the wick and give it about a 2-3 second squeeze. Works like a charm, no spilled alcohol! And, no flare up as the burner heats up as you have just the right amount of prime! Oh, and you should have the original wicks. The ones from Seaward are fiberglass, and don't burn up. I had tried some TiKi torch wick, but it wasn't any good, burned up in a short period of time. If you call Seaward, they will probably just GIVE them to you! They were great to me! Uh, while we are on the subject, I rebuilt all three burners on Hanalei last spring. The parts cost about $5 per burner. Removed the burners, disassembled them, sand blasted the bronze parts(made them look like new), replaced all the packings, and WaLaa!, the stove is like new. I actually removed the entire stove and tank and took the sucker home to rebuild it, when I was done I fired it up in the kitchen and baked a potatoe in it just to make sure everything was working OK. Talk to Seaward, they will tell you what ya need.....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
On Hanalei I found a great way to prime the Seaward alcohol stove & oven. If you go to a plumbing supply store and buy a bottle of "Snoop" (a soap solution used to check for gas leaks), the bottle it comes in has an extendable tube for directing the stream. Dump out the Snoop, fill it with alcohol, and when you want to prime the stove, direct the tubing at the wick and give it about a 2-3 second squeeze. Works like a charm, no spilled alcohol! And, no flare up as the burner heats up as you have just the right amount of prime! Oh, and you should have the original wicks. The ones from Seaward are fiberglass, and don't burn up. I had tried some TiKi torch wick, but it wasn't any good, burned up in a short period of time. If you call Seaward, they will probably just GIVE them to you! They were great to me! Uh, while we are on the subject, I rebuilt all three burners on Hanalei last spring. The parts cost about $5 per burner. Removed the burners, disassembled them, sand blasted the bronze parts(made them look like new), replaced all the packings, and WaLaa!, the stove is like new. I actually removed the entire stove and tank and took the sucker home to rebuild it, when I was done I fired it up in the kitchen and baked a potatoe in it just to make sure everything was working OK. Talk to Seaward, they will tell you what ya need.....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
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Tom
Re: Stove Prime....
Here's another way. Sterno is just gellied alcohol. With a spoon put a little dab about the size of a marble where you usually put the liquid alcohol. Just before it burns away turn on the burner. Voila. Even better is a propane torch. Hold it on the base of the burner for maybe 10 15 seconds and then turn the burner on. Nothing to spill and it's really quick and eliminates matches or sparkers.Larry,
On Hanalei I found a great way to prime the Seaward alcohol stove & oven. If you go to a plumbing supply store and buy a bottle of "Snoop" (a soap solution used to check for gas leaks), the bottle it comes in has an extendable tube for directing the stream. Dump out the Snoop, fill it with alcohol, and when you want to prime the stove, direct the tubing at the wick and give it about a 2-3 second squeeze. Works like a charm, no spilled alcohol! And, no flare up as the burner heats up as you have just the right amount of prime! Oh, and you should have the original wicks. The ones from Seaward are fiberglass, and don't burn up. I had tried some TiKi torch wick, but it wasn't any good, burned up in a short period of time. If you call Seaward, they will probably just GIVE them to you! They were great to me! Uh, while we are on the subject, I rebuilt all three burners on Hanalei last spring. The parts cost about $5 per burner. Removed the burners, disassembled them, sand blasted the bronze parts(made them look like new), replaced all the packings, and WaLaa!, the stove is like new. I actually removed the entire stove and tank and took the sucker home to rebuild it, when I was done I fired it up in the kitchen and baked a potatoe in it just to make sure everything was working OK. Talk to Seaward, they will tell you what ya need.....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
TomCambria@mindspring.com
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Scott Ritchey
Re: Pools of Water on Deck
As noted, several different engines were used. My 1980 CD27, hull 159, came with a Yanmar YSM-8. It's a one-lung Diesel and the piston moves horizontally, laterally. Weighs 102 KG (about 225 lb) according to the book. Shakes a lot but still starts and runs like a champ.Does anyone know what CD typically would have installed in the factory in 1980? A one cylinder Volvo? The Yanmar weighs about 200 lbs. Does anyone have a weight spec on the One cylinder Volvo?
RitcheyVS@aol.con
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Larry DeMers
Re: Stove Prime....
Hi Dave and All,
Hee, good job rebuilding that stove Dave! Cooked a potato in the kitchen..love it!! hee..thanks for the smile this AM.
I rebuilt our stove 2 years ago, and found almost all of the parts are available from Seaward as you say. We have a long history of backpacking previous to our owning DeLaMer, and used a Svea 123R backpacking stove for 10 years or more..this stove needed to be primed, so we learned the trick of proper priming without creating a fireball. So we have used this on DeLaMer's stove and oven too with no problems. But..priming the oven is sometimes tougher to do, and it does occasionally get too much alcohol in the burner, which overflows to the rim etc. The thing we noticed was that once we leveled our boat out, the oven primes far better...and without overflowing as easily. Used it Saturday for a pizza lunch..with 30kts. wind, 30-35 deg. heel and 7.4 kts. on the meter..love fall sailing! We hardly ever get rid of a reef in the main..and then it gets wilder as the fall gets deeper.
Has anyone found replacements for the top of the stove? Ours has some areas where the paint has failed, and the metal is showing with some corrosion. It needs to be replaced or refinished. But that finish is harder than paint..is it some kind of electrostatic glaze?
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
demers@sgi.com
Hee, good job rebuilding that stove Dave! Cooked a potato in the kitchen..love it!! hee..thanks for the smile this AM.
I rebuilt our stove 2 years ago, and found almost all of the parts are available from Seaward as you say. We have a long history of backpacking previous to our owning DeLaMer, and used a Svea 123R backpacking stove for 10 years or more..this stove needed to be primed, so we learned the trick of proper priming without creating a fireball. So we have used this on DeLaMer's stove and oven too with no problems. But..priming the oven is sometimes tougher to do, and it does occasionally get too much alcohol in the burner, which overflows to the rim etc. The thing we noticed was that once we leveled our boat out, the oven primes far better...and without overflowing as easily. Used it Saturday for a pizza lunch..with 30kts. wind, 30-35 deg. heel and 7.4 kts. on the meter..love fall sailing! We hardly ever get rid of a reef in the main..and then it gets wilder as the fall gets deeper.
Has anyone found replacements for the top of the stove? Ours has some areas where the paint has failed, and the metal is showing with some corrosion. It needs to be replaced or refinished. But that finish is harder than paint..is it some kind of electrostatic glaze?
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Larry,
On Hanalei I found a great way to prime the Seaward alcohol stove & oven. If you go to a plumbing supply store and buy a bottle of "Snoop" (a soap solution used to check for gas leaks), the bottle it comes in has an extendable tube for directing the stream. Dump out the Snoop, fill it with alcohol, and when you want to prime the stove, direct the tubing at the wick and give it about a 2-3 second squeeze. Works like a charm, no spilled alcohol! And, no flare up as the burner heats up as you have just the right amount of prime! Oh, and you should have the original wicks. The ones from Seaward are fiberglass, and don't burn up. I had tried some TiKi torch wick, but it wasn't any good, burned up in a short period of time. If you call Seaward, they will probably just GIVE them to you! They were great to me! Uh, while we are on the subject, I rebuilt all three burners on Hanalei last spring. The parts cost about $5 per burner. Removed the burners, disassembled them, sand blasted the bronze parts(made them look like new), replaced all the packings, and WaLaa!, the stove is like new. I actually removed the entire stove and tank and took the sucker home to rebuild it, when I was done I fired it up in the kitchen and baked a potatoe in it just to make sure everything was working OK. Talk to Seaward, they will tell you what ya need.....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
demers@sgi.com
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Da. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Paint?????
Larry,
Don't know about the paint on top of the stove. Hanaleis' is all stainless steel. It does show some heat marking, but I take the top home once in awhile and buff it off. Maybe a call to Seaward is in order? Sounds like great sailing conditions....
Don't know about the paint on top of the stove. Hanaleis' is all stainless steel. It does show some heat marking, but I take the top home once in awhile and buff it off. Maybe a call to Seaward is in order? Sounds like great sailing conditions....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30