Trailering and what to be careful of
Moderator: Jim Walsh
- Warren S
- Posts: 254
- Joined: Jul 27th, '06, 21:22
- Location: s/v Morveren
Cape Dory 270 Hull #5
Washington, NC
Trailering and what to be careful of
As a new (< 1 year) owner, I tend to be rather paranoid of causing damage until I get to know just what these great vessels can take.
As it turns out, the 270 came with a trailer (nice and beefy, with 3 axles). Are there any standard caveats for trailering in general? Given that the keel takes all the weight, is there concern over transmitting the occasional shocks from potholes etc up through the keel bolts?
...or is it much ado about nothing?
Thanks...
As it turns out, the 270 came with a trailer (nice and beefy, with 3 axles). Are there any standard caveats for trailering in general? Given that the keel takes all the weight, is there concern over transmitting the occasional shocks from potholes etc up through the keel bolts?
...or is it much ado about nothing?
Thanks...
Last edited by Warren S on Mar 2nd, '07, 20:28, edited 1 time in total.
"Being hove to in a long gale is the most boring way of being terrified I know." -Donald Hamilton
- barfwinkle
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 10:34
- Location: S/V Rhapsody CD25D
- Warren S
- Posts: 254
- Joined: Jul 27th, '06, 21:22
- Location: s/v Morveren
Cape Dory 270 Hull #5
Washington, NC
Possibly no bolts at all!
I'm assuming the construction is the same as any other CD... just shoal draft.
Thanks...
Thanks...
"Being hove to in a long gale is the most boring way of being terrified I know." -Donald Hamilton
trucker
Warren
Having pulled a couple trailers occasionally I have a couple insights though certainly not an exhaustive list.
First the tow vehicle - Usually the local DOT requires the tow vehicle be rated to tow the weight of the trailer - ie a Jeep Cherokee is not rated for more than 5000 lbs and your CD270 at 8500 plus a trailer at even 2500+ puts you into much more serious tow vehicle class. My solution - rent a truck rated for your combined vehicles weight for once and done trailering. Check with the rental company or DMV as with these weights you're getting into CDL license country. Note that the fines are also heavy if you tow in excess of the combined vehicle weight.
Brakes/engine/cooling-use extra oil and trans coolers?/lights-signals/tire pressures - at 11000 lbs of trailer weight you would do well to check them each time you tow.
CD270 - I'm thinking you might want to keep your centerboard from flopping around in its trunk if you're going long distance or high speed ( ? ). Side supports should be large and even though they don't support weight they do need to support lateral loads - think cornering. Everything in the cabin of course should be locked down ( don't forget sloshing fluids/supplies will make supports work extra hard. Mast and boom need to be cushioned, supported and locked down. I like to leave access to the cabin so I can check on stuff ( a technical word us truckers use .
Practice going forward and backing up empty in a lot if you've never trailered. Be careful to leave much extra distance between you and what's in front of you - think about stopping distance before getting close to a traffic light - you'll need to be going slower or you'll end up in the intersection.
By the time this is all over duct tape may become your best friend and it is really easier than it sounds here.
Good Luck
Having pulled a couple trailers occasionally I have a couple insights though certainly not an exhaustive list.
First the tow vehicle - Usually the local DOT requires the tow vehicle be rated to tow the weight of the trailer - ie a Jeep Cherokee is not rated for more than 5000 lbs and your CD270 at 8500 plus a trailer at even 2500+ puts you into much more serious tow vehicle class. My solution - rent a truck rated for your combined vehicles weight for once and done trailering. Check with the rental company or DMV as with these weights you're getting into CDL license country. Note that the fines are also heavy if you tow in excess of the combined vehicle weight.
Brakes/engine/cooling-use extra oil and trans coolers?/lights-signals/tire pressures - at 11000 lbs of trailer weight you would do well to check them each time you tow.
CD270 - I'm thinking you might want to keep your centerboard from flopping around in its trunk if you're going long distance or high speed ( ? ). Side supports should be large and even though they don't support weight they do need to support lateral loads - think cornering. Everything in the cabin of course should be locked down ( don't forget sloshing fluids/supplies will make supports work extra hard. Mast and boom need to be cushioned, supported and locked down. I like to leave access to the cabin so I can check on stuff ( a technical word us truckers use .
Practice going forward and backing up empty in a lot if you've never trailered. Be careful to leave much extra distance between you and what's in front of you - think about stopping distance before getting close to a traffic light - you'll need to be going slower or you'll end up in the intersection.
By the time this is all over duct tape may become your best friend and it is really easier than it sounds here.
Good Luck
- Sea Hunt
- Posts: 1310
- Joined: Jan 29th, '06, 23:14
- Location: Former caretaker of 1977 Cape Dory Typhoon Weekender (Hull #1400) "S/V Tadpole"
Hello Bill:
You obviously know a lot about towing. I have a few questions about the subject. I have never towed anything in my life. About 10-12 years ago I drove with a friend of mine to pick up a new powerboat he bought near Naples, Florida. The attempted drive back was nightmare. Everything that could go wrong did - and he actually had a good bit of experience in trailering. So, I go into this consideration with a good deal of trepidation.
I am looking at a CD 22 on the west coast of Florida, a little less than 300 miles from there to Miami. I own a 1995 Chevy Tahoe (172,000 miles). She has a 5.7L engine and the standard (for 1995) towing package. I did not order it this way. It was ordered by someone else but sold to me because he could not make financing.
I am told the trailer is a stainless steel model made by Ensign Spars, Dunedin, Florida. They build Ensign sailboats I do not know the weight of the trailer. It is a dual axle and, as I understand it, does have brakes, although I am not sure what kind (electric, pneumatic, etc.). I am assuming the trailer's total weight is 2,500 to 3,000 lbs., possibly less.
According to this website, the CD 22 has a displacement of 3,200 lbs and a ballast of 1,400 lbs. which I think is included within the 3,200. I am assuming the weight of O/B motor (5 hp/4 stroke), mast, rigging, sails, miscellaneous "stuff" (I assume you are familiar with this term ) to be an additional 300-400 lbs. for a total of 3,600 lbs.
Am I correct in believing that the total tow weight (trailer, boat, "stuff" etc.) is what is important
If my numbers are close, and being cautious, the total tow weight is about 6,500 lbs., possibly 6,600 lbs
What information exactly do I need to get with respect to my truck to determine if I can tow this package 250 miles to Miami
The truck came new in 1995 with a tow bar or "crossbar" (not sure if this is the right term) with the female shaft in the center. I do not have the rod (technical term ) , hitch ball, etc. and would need to buy that. Any thoughts on this additional equipment
I truly love my Chevy truck and have no desire to have to sell her or cause her any pain or suffering in attempting to tow something that is beyond her abilities at her age (12 years and mileage, 172,000+).
My alternative would be to hire a boat transport co. and transport the CD 22 and trailer.
All of this presumes a purchase. I have not yet looked at her but have scheduled an inspection for the St. Patrick's Day weekend.
Bill, I know this is not really "sailboat"-type questions but I would be very grateful for your thoughts.
Thanks,
You obviously know a lot about towing. I have a few questions about the subject. I have never towed anything in my life. About 10-12 years ago I drove with a friend of mine to pick up a new powerboat he bought near Naples, Florida. The attempted drive back was nightmare. Everything that could go wrong did - and he actually had a good bit of experience in trailering. So, I go into this consideration with a good deal of trepidation.
I am looking at a CD 22 on the west coast of Florida, a little less than 300 miles from there to Miami. I own a 1995 Chevy Tahoe (172,000 miles). She has a 5.7L engine and the standard (for 1995) towing package. I did not order it this way. It was ordered by someone else but sold to me because he could not make financing.
I am told the trailer is a stainless steel model made by Ensign Spars, Dunedin, Florida. They build Ensign sailboats I do not know the weight of the trailer. It is a dual axle and, as I understand it, does have brakes, although I am not sure what kind (electric, pneumatic, etc.). I am assuming the trailer's total weight is 2,500 to 3,000 lbs., possibly less.
According to this website, the CD 22 has a displacement of 3,200 lbs and a ballast of 1,400 lbs. which I think is included within the 3,200. I am assuming the weight of O/B motor (5 hp/4 stroke), mast, rigging, sails, miscellaneous "stuff" (I assume you are familiar with this term ) to be an additional 300-400 lbs. for a total of 3,600 lbs.
Am I correct in believing that the total tow weight (trailer, boat, "stuff" etc.) is what is important
If my numbers are close, and being cautious, the total tow weight is about 6,500 lbs., possibly 6,600 lbs
What information exactly do I need to get with respect to my truck to determine if I can tow this package 250 miles to Miami
The truck came new in 1995 with a tow bar or "crossbar" (not sure if this is the right term) with the female shaft in the center. I do not have the rod (technical term ) , hitch ball, etc. and would need to buy that. Any thoughts on this additional equipment
I truly love my Chevy truck and have no desire to have to sell her or cause her any pain or suffering in attempting to tow something that is beyond her abilities at her age (12 years and mileage, 172,000+).
My alternative would be to hire a boat transport co. and transport the CD 22 and trailer.
All of this presumes a purchase. I have not yet looked at her but have scheduled an inspection for the St. Patrick's Day weekend.
Bill, I know this is not really "sailboat"-type questions but I would be very grateful for your thoughts.
Thanks,
Fair winds,
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
Back to Sea Hunt
I don't consider myself an expert on towing but......
Since your truck has a "trailer package" you should have some documentation some where on how much it is rated to pull. If not open up your driver's door and look for a label with ratings on it. You'll find the GVWR. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. That's the absolute gross weight of your truck, your trailer and everything in them.
I would consider a 300 mile trip to Miami a walk in the park if:
My GVWR on my truck was well above the weight of my truck plus everything in my truck plus everything I'm towing.
All tires were in good shape and inflated properly. Trailer tires can mislead you. They rot while standing in storage but still look new. Look for many hairline cracks on the side walls.
The trailer was in good condition. Any rust must be chipped away to look for structural integrity. Stainless Steel Trailer? Wow, I've never seen one.
If the trailer has gone unused, grease the wheel bearings before the trip, or at least inspect them.
Make sure the trailer lights are working. A bad ground can drive you crazy, so if you have trouble check the ground wire first.
If you're still a little unsure take the trip at night when the air is cool and the traffic is lite. You could leave at midnight and be in Miami around 6:00 AM.
I would encourage you to make this delivery, and not hire it out. You'll be glad you did.
Gary
Since your truck has a "trailer package" you should have some documentation some where on how much it is rated to pull. If not open up your driver's door and look for a label with ratings on it. You'll find the GVWR. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. That's the absolute gross weight of your truck, your trailer and everything in them.
I would consider a 300 mile trip to Miami a walk in the park if:
My GVWR on my truck was well above the weight of my truck plus everything in my truck plus everything I'm towing.
All tires were in good shape and inflated properly. Trailer tires can mislead you. They rot while standing in storage but still look new. Look for many hairline cracks on the side walls.
The trailer was in good condition. Any rust must be chipped away to look for structural integrity. Stainless Steel Trailer? Wow, I've never seen one.
If the trailer has gone unused, grease the wheel bearings before the trip, or at least inspect them.
Make sure the trailer lights are working. A bad ground can drive you crazy, so if you have trouble check the ground wire first.
If you're still a little unsure take the trip at night when the air is cool and the traffic is lite. You could leave at midnight and be in Miami around 6:00 AM.
I would encourage you to make this delivery, and not hire it out. You'll be glad you did.
Gary
mistakes
Hi Sea Hunt
Methinks you give me far too much credit - there are many mistakes required to acquire an ounce of experience. I'm sure the two of us will acquire more of both.
Anyways -
95 Tahoe - if 1/2 ton model I think your tow capacity is around 5000lbs ( or 6500 ? ) but if 3/4 ton could be 7500 or more ( possibly as much as 10000 ? if optioned that way ) . Your owners manual should spell it out for you. Your local DOT will probably look at the Mfg's plate usually on a door jam or such. It may or may not have a tow capacity or conversely a vehicle capacity and combined vehicles capacity - subtract them to find the difference which is tow capacity. Your Tahoe has a few miles on her but if the engine/trans have received regular fluid changes can be OK. If you have the tow package you probably have external coolers for both - they'll need to be in working order. If me I'd flush the cooling system as you have some serious heat down there. You will want a ball and hitch ( the right word ? ) to fit into your frame mounted trailer receiver. Just make sure they too are rated for the weight you'll be towing. In olden times we used to get HD metallic brake pads which may or may not still be out there - you'll want to make sure your brakes are 100% - you may want to upgrade to a compatible DOT 4 or such brake fluid to prevent fluid boiling .
Your trailer - A steel two axle trailer would probably weigh 2000 + . DOT would check the Mfg's plate it has ( or doesn't which means you really have to make sure it still has tires rated for a weight totaling the total trailer weight ). Also be sure that its brakes and lights work and the tires have enough air and don't forget to service all the wheel bearings. You're right that you need to add the weight of everything going on to the trailer to see if you exceed the Mfg's payload limit ( or total limit ) . I used to have a CD22 and figured the boat and stuff ( ) weighed 3500+ and the HD two axle trailer came in around 2500 + so I rented a 3/4 ton truck set up for towing when I didn't own ( or could borrow ) something appropriate.
You would be wise to consult some paid professionals to see what I've forgotten - I'd suggest someplace like a U-Haul or RV center and tell them you'd like to tow a little more than you expect to tow. They'll then try to sell you the extra stuff ( truly a techy word ) that you need. If you compare what they all say and what you find out on your own you will be much better prepared than most on the road.
and as before it really is much easier than it sounds here.
Good Luck
Methinks you give me far too much credit - there are many mistakes required to acquire an ounce of experience. I'm sure the two of us will acquire more of both.
Anyways -
95 Tahoe - if 1/2 ton model I think your tow capacity is around 5000lbs ( or 6500 ? ) but if 3/4 ton could be 7500 or more ( possibly as much as 10000 ? if optioned that way ) . Your owners manual should spell it out for you. Your local DOT will probably look at the Mfg's plate usually on a door jam or such. It may or may not have a tow capacity or conversely a vehicle capacity and combined vehicles capacity - subtract them to find the difference which is tow capacity. Your Tahoe has a few miles on her but if the engine/trans have received regular fluid changes can be OK. If you have the tow package you probably have external coolers for both - they'll need to be in working order. If me I'd flush the cooling system as you have some serious heat down there. You will want a ball and hitch ( the right word ? ) to fit into your frame mounted trailer receiver. Just make sure they too are rated for the weight you'll be towing. In olden times we used to get HD metallic brake pads which may or may not still be out there - you'll want to make sure your brakes are 100% - you may want to upgrade to a compatible DOT 4 or such brake fluid to prevent fluid boiling .
Your trailer - A steel two axle trailer would probably weigh 2000 + . DOT would check the Mfg's plate it has ( or doesn't which means you really have to make sure it still has tires rated for a weight totaling the total trailer weight ). Also be sure that its brakes and lights work and the tires have enough air and don't forget to service all the wheel bearings. You're right that you need to add the weight of everything going on to the trailer to see if you exceed the Mfg's payload limit ( or total limit ) . I used to have a CD22 and figured the boat and stuff ( ) weighed 3500+ and the HD two axle trailer came in around 2500 + so I rented a 3/4 ton truck set up for towing when I didn't own ( or could borrow ) something appropriate.
You would be wise to consult some paid professionals to see what I've forgotten - I'd suggest someplace like a U-Haul or RV center and tell them you'd like to tow a little more than you expect to tow. They'll then try to sell you the extra stuff ( truly a techy word ) that you need. If you compare what they all say and what you find out on your own you will be much better prepared than most on the road.
and as before it really is much easier than it sounds here.
Good Luck
- Sea Hunt
- Posts: 1310
- Joined: Jan 29th, '06, 23:14
- Location: Former caretaker of 1977 Cape Dory Typhoon Weekender (Hull #1400) "S/V Tadpole"
Hello Gary and Bill:
Thank you both very much. You provided very helpful information. I may talk with a local trailer/hitch company just to see what they think of my Tahoe, its towing capacity, etc.
If I decide to make an offer on the CD 22 I can then figure out what I will need to add to my truck and/or the trailer.
Gary, while I am grateful for your kind words, 300 miles is NOT "a walk in the park" to a newbie at trailering, especially a 7,000 lb package. Thinking about owning a Cape Dory in the middle of hurricane alley is worrisome enough. Adding a long towing route, etc. just adds to the stress level. I'm retired. My stress days are over with.
Again, thanks to both of you
Thank you both very much. You provided very helpful information. I may talk with a local trailer/hitch company just to see what they think of my Tahoe, its towing capacity, etc.
If I decide to make an offer on the CD 22 I can then figure out what I will need to add to my truck and/or the trailer.
Gary, while I am grateful for your kind words, 300 miles is NOT "a walk in the park" to a newbie at trailering, especially a 7,000 lb package. Thinking about owning a Cape Dory in the middle of hurricane alley is worrisome enough. Adding a long towing route, etc. just adds to the stress level. I'm retired. My stress days are over with.
Again, thanks to both of you
Fair winds,
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
-
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
TRAILERING - WHAT TO BE CAREFUL OF
I well remember the first time I drove at night across southern Florida . We were in a '38 Ford Tudor V8, going to check out a boat.
We were going from Ft. Lauderdale across the Everglades on Alligator Alley to Naples.
I kept hearing popping noises from time to time and asked the local guy riding with me what the noises were.
He said, "Oh, that's just snakes you're running over. They slither up on the blacktop at night to keep warm."
O J
We were going from Ft. Lauderdale across the Everglades on Alligator Alley to Naples.
I kept hearing popping noises from time to time and asked the local guy riding with me what the noises were.
He said, "Oh, that's just snakes you're running over. They slither up on the blacktop at night to keep warm."
O J
Your call, Sea Hunt
Sea Hunt,
It's your call. But if your truck can handle it I think you should consider it.
Don't look at it as stress, look at it as a puzzle that you are putting together. If the pieces fit you can do it, if the pieces don't fit you shouldn't do it.
Can something go wrong? Of course something can go wrong! But you already know that, your buying a boat!!
Gary
It's your call. But if your truck can handle it I think you should consider it.
Don't look at it as stress, look at it as a puzzle that you are putting together. If the pieces fit you can do it, if the pieces don't fit you shouldn't do it.
Can something go wrong? Of course something can go wrong! But you already know that, your buying a boat!!
Gary
- Lew Gresham
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Dec 19th, '06, 09:28
- Location: A Classic that's in the Restoration Booth.
- Contact:
- Sea Hunt
- Posts: 1310
- Joined: Jan 29th, '06, 23:14
- Location: Former caretaker of 1977 Cape Dory Typhoon Weekender (Hull #1400) "S/V Tadpole"
OJ and Lew:
Thanks for the images of snakes and frogs crawling around Tamiami Trail (US 41) or Alligator Alley (I 75) . There's a reason it's named Alligator Alley
Gary, it's not the stress of figuring out the pieces to put together to trailer a boat. I'm used to trying to put pieces together. I just spent two days doing some simple rewiring of exterior outlets at the house. All went well and I actually had a few extra pieces left over .
The stress is in the actual trailering. If I'm alone, no real worries. But if "the Admiral" or a buddy are with me, my concern for their safety elevates. That's the stress. As Lew, OJ or anyone knows, the roads from Florida's west coast to east coast (mostly Tamiami Trail and Alligator Alley) are notoriously dangerous on a good day. Pulling an unfamiliar 7,000 lb package for the first time adds to the dangerous.
But, no worries. It's a ways off. First, I have to look at this Cape Dory. Then, possibly negotiate a price. Then a sea trial. If I get past those hurdles, then I can worry about trailering vs. hiring a transport co.
Thanks to all and
Fair Winds,
Thanks for the images of snakes and frogs crawling around Tamiami Trail (US 41) or Alligator Alley (I 75) . There's a reason it's named Alligator Alley
Gary, it's not the stress of figuring out the pieces to put together to trailer a boat. I'm used to trying to put pieces together. I just spent two days doing some simple rewiring of exterior outlets at the house. All went well and I actually had a few extra pieces left over .
The stress is in the actual trailering. If I'm alone, no real worries. But if "the Admiral" or a buddy are with me, my concern for their safety elevates. That's the stress. As Lew, OJ or anyone knows, the roads from Florida's west coast to east coast (mostly Tamiami Trail and Alligator Alley) are notoriously dangerous on a good day. Pulling an unfamiliar 7,000 lb package for the first time adds to the dangerous.
But, no worries. It's a ways off. First, I have to look at this Cape Dory. Then, possibly negotiate a price. Then a sea trial. If I get past those hurdles, then I can worry about trailering vs. hiring a transport co.
Thanks to all and
Fair Winds,
Fair winds,
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
Robert
Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
- Warren S
- Posts: 254
- Joined: Jul 27th, '06, 21:22
- Location: s/v Morveren
Cape Dory 270 Hull #5
Washington, NC
Thanks Bill
We were just out having a brisk sail and just returned to find your reply.
I was thinking of replacing my current truck (Toyota) with a crew cab (2 soon-to-be teenage sons) truck that is rated to pull the 270. After research, there are the RAM 3500, Ford F350 or Silverado 3500. These have dual wheels which I like for the stability and as you pointed out, for the stopping power (trailer has electric brakes).
I was thinking of replacing my current truck (Toyota) with a crew cab (2 soon-to-be teenage sons) truck that is rated to pull the 270. After research, there are the RAM 3500, Ford F350 or Silverado 3500. These have dual wheels which I like for the stability and as you pointed out, for the stopping power (trailer has electric brakes).
"Being hove to in a long gale is the most boring way of being terrified I know." -Donald Hamilton
RE:Towing
A lot depends on the type of towing you will be doing. Short distance, hills, speed, interstate (entering another state), etc.
You might not be required to stop at weigh stations, they are usually looking for commercial vehicles.
What the weigh stations, state troopers, federal HWY inspectors etc. are looking at first are proper tags. You can generally specify the gross weight when you want to pay for when you register the vehicle...the DMV will require the minimum, but you can up it if you would like for higher fee. You can license a 10,000 gvw. vehicle for 15,000 GVW, if you choose. The DMV is just interested in the fees -not necessarily the capability of the vehicle. The towing vehicle must be licenced for the total load.
The other factor is the width. This may vary from state to state. The CD 270 would qualify for wide load - but not necessarily requiring the wide load sign and following vehicle, blinking lights, etc.. Again this varies from state -to- state. Short term permits based on distance may apply.
I have towed my 270 around 45 miles a couple of times without anything special. There is not anything special required for for the Centerboard - I just release mine and let it "rest" its weight on support. Also, the CD270 has no keel bolts, like all CDs. The proper hitch, the tounge weight, defensive driving, locking the coupler are as important (if not more) than the towing vehicle, I believe.
You might not be required to stop at weigh stations, they are usually looking for commercial vehicles.
What the weigh stations, state troopers, federal HWY inspectors etc. are looking at first are proper tags. You can generally specify the gross weight when you want to pay for when you register the vehicle...the DMV will require the minimum, but you can up it if you would like for higher fee. You can license a 10,000 gvw. vehicle for 15,000 GVW, if you choose. The DMV is just interested in the fees -not necessarily the capability of the vehicle. The towing vehicle must be licenced for the total load.
The other factor is the width. This may vary from state to state. The CD 270 would qualify for wide load - but not necessarily requiring the wide load sign and following vehicle, blinking lights, etc.. Again this varies from state -to- state. Short term permits based on distance may apply.
I have towed my 270 around 45 miles a couple of times without anything special. There is not anything special required for for the Centerboard - I just release mine and let it "rest" its weight on support. Also, the CD270 has no keel bolts, like all CDs. The proper hitch, the tounge weight, defensive driving, locking the coupler are as important (if not more) than the towing vehicle, I believe.
-
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Jan 29th, '07, 12:13
- Location: SEVEN CD27 Hull No. 7 Palm Beach, FL
Overloaded Trailers
Being new to sailing, I mostly listen to you all kick things around and learn what I can. But draggin heavy trailers around is something I do have experience with. Most recently we bought a CD27 and towed it home from St. Pete FL to Palm Beach, (over the Skyway Bridge) with an F250 and a jury rigged equipment trailer. It was our first sailing adventure and we loved it. So, I'll share with you my thoughts, concerns and preparations regarding towing heavy loads and perhaps it will help ease your mind for your adventure.
The Truck; a 1/2 ton truck will pull a very heavy load without excessive effort, if it's done right. Good tires are a must, go with a C load rating. Transmission cooler, required equipment for Florida. Hitch, check the Class rating on the hitch itself (nothing less that class IV). Trailer brakes (if electric) will require an electronic controller installed in the truck.
The Trailer; TIRES - Assume the tires are junk and buy new. A blowout can be catastrophic and way more expensive than the tires. D load rating are not much more expensive, but they are doing all the work. BEARINGS - No trailer should ever be moved after sitting without inspecting and greasing the bearings. BRAKES - In an emergancy stop situation trailer brakes will save you, don't leave home without them. LIGHTS - They always need work, the new LED version last longer.
THE METHOD; Hills will hurt your tranny, never stop on one, if you do, don't force the start, be patient. Long gradual hills, let the speed bleed off as you climb, never try to accelerate. (Don't worry about the other traffic, they'll get over it.) Stay away from stop and go routes or bumpy roads. Leave yourself room for stopping. Set the trailer brakes so you feel them kick in hard, (but not skid the tires). Tung weight should not lift the front of the truck, only settle the rear several inches, adjust the boat on the trailer if required. Attach the boat to the trailer with straps as best you can. Consider that in an accident, the boat ending up on top of your truck could be a problem.
Plan the trip at 45 mph avoiding rush hour traffic. I prefer night driving. Bring provisions for a breakdown, flares, flashlights, food, water, extra cloths, rain gear, cell phone. Have a back-up plan, talk to Kaufs towing about a rescue, just in case. They can put your entire rig on a slide bed trailer. Have a friend follow you in a chase car in case of emergencies. Also they can ride behind with the flashers on to keep annoying tailgaters away.
That's all I can think of. Go for it, you'll be fine.
Knowing how to move your boat (yourself) is a valuable piece of freedom. If a storm takes your house, you can always live in your boat.
Hope this helps.
Dick Macdonald
The Truck; a 1/2 ton truck will pull a very heavy load without excessive effort, if it's done right. Good tires are a must, go with a C load rating. Transmission cooler, required equipment for Florida. Hitch, check the Class rating on the hitch itself (nothing less that class IV). Trailer brakes (if electric) will require an electronic controller installed in the truck.
The Trailer; TIRES - Assume the tires are junk and buy new. A blowout can be catastrophic and way more expensive than the tires. D load rating are not much more expensive, but they are doing all the work. BEARINGS - No trailer should ever be moved after sitting without inspecting and greasing the bearings. BRAKES - In an emergancy stop situation trailer brakes will save you, don't leave home without them. LIGHTS - They always need work, the new LED version last longer.
THE METHOD; Hills will hurt your tranny, never stop on one, if you do, don't force the start, be patient. Long gradual hills, let the speed bleed off as you climb, never try to accelerate. (Don't worry about the other traffic, they'll get over it.) Stay away from stop and go routes or bumpy roads. Leave yourself room for stopping. Set the trailer brakes so you feel them kick in hard, (but not skid the tires). Tung weight should not lift the front of the truck, only settle the rear several inches, adjust the boat on the trailer if required. Attach the boat to the trailer with straps as best you can. Consider that in an accident, the boat ending up on top of your truck could be a problem.
Plan the trip at 45 mph avoiding rush hour traffic. I prefer night driving. Bring provisions for a breakdown, flares, flashlights, food, water, extra cloths, rain gear, cell phone. Have a back-up plan, talk to Kaufs towing about a rescue, just in case. They can put your entire rig on a slide bed trailer. Have a friend follow you in a chase car in case of emergencies. Also they can ride behind with the flashers on to keep annoying tailgaters away.
That's all I can think of. Go for it, you'll be fine.
Knowing how to move your boat (yourself) is a valuable piece of freedom. If a storm takes your house, you can always live in your boat.
Hope this helps.
Dick Macdonald