Raising Engine Mount
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Raising Engine Mount
We had what appeared to be a loose engine mount on the rear starboard side on our 25D. The threads were stripped on the post & so I shimmed it up about an 1/8 inch to catch the threads on the post and then tightened it down. It seems to be pretty tight now, but is this going to change the alignment of the engine?
Kurt & Carolyn Thomas
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Raising Engine Mount
Kurt and Carolyn,
If the engine was perfectly lined up and you altered something, I would think that the alignment was compromised to a greater, or lesser degree.
Seeing that you had some excess thread on the motor mount bolt, would it be possible to return the motor mount to it's original position and use washer(s) on top of the mount for the nut to have solid threads.
Good luck,
O J
If the engine was perfectly lined up and you altered something, I would think that the alignment was compromised to a greater, or lesser degree.
Seeing that you had some excess thread on the motor mount bolt, would it be possible to return the motor mount to it's original position and use washer(s) on top of the mount for the nut to have solid threads.
Good luck,
O J
Thanks John. That's a good idea except, unfortunately, it is the bottom nut threads that are stripped. I could probably take the bottom washer out to catch the threads, but if I have to take the engine mount off anyway I probably should replace it. I am thinking that they are probably the originals, and if I'm going to go thru the trouble of replacing one, might as well do all four!
Kurt & Carolyn Thomas
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Mark Yashinsky
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 15:24
- Location: 1980 CD27, #173
Second Chance
Why was that mount stripped?
That should be the first question, so that you dont have a reoccurance w/ the new one(s). Did someone over do it with a wrench, or was there a leak and the threads corroded away?
Also, if the mount was stripped and the engine loose, anything get damaged or worn from the engine (possibly) being misaligned? Check the cutlass bearing/shaft tube. Also take a look at the flex coupling for abnormal wear/flexing.
Also, if the mount was stripped and the engine loose, anything get damaged or worn from the engine (possibly) being misaligned? Check the cutlass bearing/shaft tube. Also take a look at the flex coupling for abnormal wear/flexing.
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Chris Reinke
- Posts: 179
- Joined: Apr 14th, '05, 14:59
- Location: CD330 - Innisfail (Gaelic for "A Little Bit Of Heaven on Earth"), Onset, MA
Kurt and Carolyn - If the engine mount was loose you may or may not have had proper engine alignment to begin with. I would start with disconnecting your shaft flange and checking for alignment before making any changes to the mounts. It may be that the loose mount was actually to low and a washer may bring you back to where you can adjust the alignment. In any event, checking the alignment needs to be the first step before any action plan can be established. The thickness of even a thin washer on any engine mount will certainly make your alignment outside of acceptable tolerance.
I had a similar problem on my CD330 when I purchased it. The previous owner had allowed the mount to vibrate freely causing wear on the mount bolt. I first checked the alignment and found it to be very far off. I suspected that the previous owner had placed a spacer below the engine mount and it had rusted away and fell out causing the excess movement. Once I replaced the spacer the remaining threads were sufficiently above the worn area and allowed for a secure mount and alignment adjustment.
I had a similar problem on my CD330 when I purchased it. The previous owner had allowed the mount to vibrate freely causing wear on the mount bolt. I first checked the alignment and found it to be very far off. I suspected that the previous owner had placed a spacer below the engine mount and it had rusted away and fell out causing the excess movement. Once I replaced the spacer the remaining threads were sufficiently above the worn area and allowed for a secure mount and alignment adjustment.
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Raising Engine Mount
Kurt, Carolyn and all,
As usual, the advice that was given by Mark and Chris was on the target. There is something that I'd like to add.
If you want to elevate something like a motor mount, it is not necessary to remove the motor or mount to place washer(s) under the mount.
There is a product that is used extensively in auto body repair which is a horseshoe shaped, or open ended, washer with a tab handle for sliding under the mount without having to remove it. These horseshoe shaped shims are available in various thicknesses and can also be stacked. They can save a lot of work.
Sometimes when there is metal to metal abrasion, if the hardware in question is galvanized, the wearing of the metals removes the zinc galvanized plating and the bare steel is exposed to rusting. If this has happened, purchase a metal bristled "tooth brush" and scrub the exposed metal to remove any foreign properties.
After the motor mount bolt is brushed free of rust, etc., thoroughly clean with solvent to remove any oil or other contaminant prior to painting. I like to use a spray can of "Zink-It" a zinc rich paint. This can be found in the welding department of most home supply stores, same place where metal bristle toothed wire brushes are sold.
If you go the horseshoe washer route, check that they have a rust proof coating. If not, give them several coats of zinc paint on both sides. The paint dries real fast, in a matter of a minute or so.
FWIW
Good luck
O J
As usual, the advice that was given by Mark and Chris was on the target. There is something that I'd like to add.
If you want to elevate something like a motor mount, it is not necessary to remove the motor or mount to place washer(s) under the mount.
There is a product that is used extensively in auto body repair which is a horseshoe shaped, or open ended, washer with a tab handle for sliding under the mount without having to remove it. These horseshoe shaped shims are available in various thicknesses and can also be stacked. They can save a lot of work.
Sometimes when there is metal to metal abrasion, if the hardware in question is galvanized, the wearing of the metals removes the zinc galvanized plating and the bare steel is exposed to rusting. If this has happened, purchase a metal bristled "tooth brush" and scrub the exposed metal to remove any foreign properties.
After the motor mount bolt is brushed free of rust, etc., thoroughly clean with solvent to remove any oil or other contaminant prior to painting. I like to use a spray can of "Zink-It" a zinc rich paint. This can be found in the welding department of most home supply stores, same place where metal bristle toothed wire brushes are sold.
If you go the horseshoe washer route, check that they have a rust proof coating. If not, give them several coats of zinc paint on both sides. The paint dries real fast, in a matter of a minute or so.
FWIW
Good luck
O J