Cockpit Sole Options--Would Like Some Opinions

[Bill Goldsmith]

The cockpit sole on my 1980 CD 27 has several cracks, which at this time appear to be only in the gelcoat. These cracks have worsened in the 18 months I've owned the boat. I do not believe that the balsa is wet because the sole is firm, not squishy. How else can I judge whether the core is dry without hiring a surveyor or buying an expensive meter?

Assuming the core is dry, I'd like to repair the cracks soon--I have read Dana Arenius' very helpful instructions in this regard.

Upon inspecting the underside of the cockpit I was a bit surprised at the lack of lateral support for the underside of the cockpit. No doubt the flexing from 19 years of use plus the lack of any underside lateral cockpit supports has resulted in these cracks. (Not to mention my kids who insist on jumping down from the coclpit seats upon boarding!)

I've read the many opinions and suggestions about crack repair and paint vs. gelcoat and I'm thinking about that.

Does anyone have opinions about or experience with:

1) Installing underside lateral cockpit sole supports.
2) As long as I am working on the cockpit sole, installing an access hatch in cockpit sole to enable access to transmission, stuffing box, etc. Current access is almost impossible for me. I simply do not fit in cockpit lockers! Any design ideas? Pro/con?

Thanks!

Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #172
Second Chance



goldy@bestweb.net

[Don Sargeant]

Bill,
Having owned a boat for many years that had an engine access hatch in the cockpit sole I wouldn't even THINK of installing one in my CD. I was never able to seal the hatch successfully. The engine and bilges were always a mess. One of the features I liked in my CD is that the engine was NOT accessible from outside the boat in spite of the fact I have to squeeze my 6'5" into the port locker occasionally.

Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove

The cockpit sole on my 1980 CD 27 has several cracks, which at this time appear to be only in the gelcoat. These cracks have worsened in the 18 months I've owned the boat. I do not believe that the balsa is wet because the sole is firm, not squishy. How else can I judge whether the core is dry without hiring a surveyor or buying an expensive meter?

Assuming the core is dry, I'd like to repair the cracks soon--I have read Dana Arenius' very helpful instructions in this regard.

Upon inspecting the underside of the cockpit I was a bit surprised at the lack of lateral support for the underside of the cockpit. No doubt the flexing from 19 years of use plus the lack of any underside lateral cockpit supports has resulted in these cracks. (Not to mention my kids who insist on jumping down from the coclpit seats upon boarding!)

I've read the many opinions and suggestions about crack repair and paint vs. gelcoat and I'm thinking about that.

Does anyone have opinions about or experience with:

1) Installing underside lateral cockpit sole supports.
2) As long as I am working on the cockpit sole, installing an access hatch in cockpit sole to enable access to transmission, stuffing box, etc. Current access is almost impossible for me. I simply do not fit in cockpit lockers! Any design ideas? Pro/con?

Thanks!

Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #172
Second Chance

don@cliggott.com

[Bill Goldsmith]

Don

Point well taken.

Bill

Bill,
Having owned a boat for many years that had an engine access hatch in the cockpit sole I wouldn't even THINK of installing one in my CD. I was never able to seal the hatch successfully. The engine and bilges were always a mess. One of the features I liked in my CD is that the engine was NOT accessible from outside the boat in spite of the fact I have to squeeze my 6'5" into the port locker occasionally.

Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove

The cockpit sole on my 1980 CD 27 has several cracks, which at this time appear to be only in the gelcoat. These cracks have worsened in the 18 months I've owned the boat. I do not believe that the balsa is wet because the sole is firm, not squishy. How else can I judge whether the core is dry without hiring a surveyor or buying an expensive meter?

Assuming the core is dry, I'd like to repair the cracks soon--I have read Dana Arenius' very helpful instructions in this regard.

Upon inspecting the underside of the cockpit I was a bit surprised at the lack of lateral support for the underside of the cockpit. No doubt the flexing from 19 years of use plus the lack of any underside lateral cockpit supports has resulted in these cracks. (Not to mention my kids who insist on jumping down from the coclpit seats upon boarding!)

I've read the many opinions and suggestions about crack repair and paint vs. gelcoat and I'm thinking about that.

Does anyone have opinions about or experience with:

1) Installing underside lateral cockpit sole supports.
2) As long as I am working on the cockpit sole, installing an access hatch in cockpit sole to enable access to transmission, stuffing box, etc. Current access is almost impossible for me. I simply do not fit in cockpit lockers! Any design ideas? Pro/con?

Thanks!

Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #172
Second Chance

goldy@bestweb.net

[Bill]

Don

That must be one tough manuever!!! At 5'7" I have a difficult of getting my knees and legs to cooperate in that locker! Now we wont talk about the mid-drift going through the opening, but I can get in. Once there, I can at least stretch out.

Bill

Bill,
Having owned a boat for many years that had an engine access hatch in the cockpit sole I wouldn't even THINK of installing one in my CD. I was never able to seal the hatch successfully. The engine and bilges were always a mess. One of the features I liked in my CD is that the engine was NOT accessible from outside the boat in spite of the fact I have to squeeze my 6'5" into the port locker occasionally.

Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove

The cockpit sole on my 1980 CD 27 has several cracks, which at this time appear to be only in the gelcoat. These cracks have worsened in the 18 months I've owned the boat. I do not believe that the balsa is wet because the sole is firm, not squishy. How else can I judge whether the core is dry without hiring a surveyor or buying an expensive meter?

Assuming the core is dry, I'd like to repair the cracks soon--I have read Dana Arenius' very helpful instructions in this regard.

Upon inspecting the underside of the cockpit I was a bit surprised at the lack of lateral support for the underside of the cockpit. No doubt the flexing from 19 years of use plus the lack of any underside lateral cockpit supports has resulted in these cracks. (Not to mention my kids who insist on jumping down from the coclpit seats upon boarding!)

I've read the many opinions and suggestions about crack repair and paint vs. gelcoat and I'm thinking about that.

Does anyone have opinions about or experience with:

1) Installing underside lateral cockpit sole supports.
2) As long as I am working on the cockpit sole, installing an access hatch in cockpit sole to enable access to transmission, stuffing box, etc. Current access is almost impossible for me. I simply do not fit in cockpit lockers! Any design ideas? Pro/con?

Thanks!

Bill Goldsmith
CD27 #172
Second Chance

cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[SteveZ]

Bill,

If you don't feel comfortable with your ability to "sound" out the cockpit floor to check for moisture, you might try drilling into the the balsa core at a few areas. From the top, drill a few 1/4" holes along the cracks (you're going to fix these areas anyway) to avoid doing extra cosmetic work. You could also drill holes from underneath the cockpit, gathering the drilled out material for inspection. Use a stop on the drill bit to ensure that you don't drill completely through and pierce both glass laminates. After wetting the holes out with epoxy,fill with epoxy thickened with silica or other material. Assuming all is well, finish cosmetic repairs for any cracks and holes drilled from the top.

You can improve the strength of the cockpit floor by adding wood or fiberglass stringers, or another panel of coring covered by fiberglass, to the underside of the cockpit floor. The technical manuals from West System Epoxy give useful, detailed explanations for doing this. The one problem you will have is working in such tight quarters and reaching far enough under the cockpit. I reinforced the cockpit sole of my CD from the underside. If I had it to do again I would consider removing the engine for easier access. You might also consider adding a teak deck or grate to the top of the cockpit for reinforcement--It certainly wouldn't look out of place on a CD.

Good luck!

[Walt Bilofsky]

Last time my CD 30 powerboat was in the yard, I asked them to check the cockpit with their moisture meter. They found that there was indeed a higher moisture reading around some of the cracks, so I wouldn't discount the possibility that there is water in the balsa. (Their solution was to peel the fiberglass off the entire cockpit and redo it. I'm not convinced yet.)

- Walt

The cockpit sole on my 1980 CD 27 has several cracks, which at this time appear to be only in the gelcoat. These cracks have worsened in the 18 months I've owned the boat. I do not believe that the balsa is wet because the sole is firm, not squishy. How else can I judge whether the core is dry without hiring a surveyor or buying an expensive meter?

bilofsky@toolworks.com