To answer David Van Den Burghs question on "his picture post" regarding the through hull. The owner told me it was a cockpit drain. I saw this boat while in Jacksonville Florida shopping with the wife. I could not believe the things that had been done to this boat. The mast looked like a charm bracelet. As for the boot stripe location, I vote no on this one. Note the chain plates!
[img]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p52/ ... cts131.jpg[/img]
New Typhoon owner with a hulluva lot of questions!
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Lew Gresham
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Dec 19th, '06, 09:28
- Location: A Classic that's in the Restoration Booth.
- Contact:
-
Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
That looks like the right spot for the intake for a marine head. I have a project boat that still had the through hulls and seacocks for a head. The intake was right there and a big old discharge through hull was on the other side. That Typhoon looks like someone had a bit of a problem with proportions. As far as stripping the bottom, I found a sharp chisel with the corners rounded was the tool of choice. Scrape, sand, wash with solvent and paint with the poison of your choice. Then just add water and sail, Steve.
-
Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
BOOT STRIPE
Lew,
Looking at the picture of the white Ty, The boot stripe does seem to be not only high, but very high.
I just now went out to check where the waterline on my Ty is. It is much lower. My 2" line runs below the stern overhang, about midway between the bottom of the transom and the top of the rudder.
Happy New Year everyone,
O J
Looking at the picture of the white Ty, The boot stripe does seem to be not only high, but very high.
I just now went out to check where the waterline on my Ty is. It is much lower. My 2" line runs below the stern overhang, about midway between the bottom of the transom and the top of the rudder.
Happy New Year everyone,
O J
-
Lew Gresham
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Dec 19th, '06, 09:28
- Location: A Classic that's in the Restoration Booth.
- Contact:
John, you are right, that's exactly where most are located and the boot stripe is about 6 to 8" wider in that area . I am presently restoring my boat, and I am to raise my boot stripe. I got some good starting point measurements from the owner of "Miranda", a very nice Typhoon. He raised his boot stripe during his recent resto, and he is very happy with the location. I really want to get my boot stripe in the right location the first time. With all the prep work done on the hull now, I am ready to prime as soon as the humidity goes up, we have had a lot of rain in SE GA. Take a look at my web site to see my progress.
Weekender
hull #914
hull #914
What Primer?
Gary,
Use the primer recommended by the bottom paint manufacturer.
Use the primer recommended by the bottom paint manufacturer.
-
JWEells
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Sep 17th, '06, 20:37
- Location: The Typhoon "Valaskjalf" (#1842), in Lake Arrowhead, California.
Brother Typhooner
Hey, Gary, I got a Typhoon earlier in the fall and have been sailing it until just a little bit ago when I pulled it out ahead of a big snowstorm here. Now that she's out and on her trailer I am doing the same things you are.
I'm stripping the bottom paint using Interlux Interstrip 299, and then finishing the paint removal with the 399 product. The first one is gooey, and the 399 is watery. The gooey stuff eats the paint off, the 399 wipes away the mess, and then I sand to get the hull smooth. I've done this with a couple of boats. They've all had that nasty red, ablative anti-fouling paint. Usually a couple of badly done coats. The Interlux stuff takes it off pretty darn easily, and I only have to scrape off the chemically eaten paint goo with a plastic scraper. No hull damage. No evil, toxic sanding dust to speak of.
To prime the bottom for new paint I have used a Petite product, a really cool silver primer that goes on like magic. It works REALLY well, binding the subsequent anti-fouling to the hull. Can't remember the full name of it.
And I painted the transom black with shiny LPU paint to complement the new color of anti-fouling that I will put on, which will be black, and which will all tie in with my sails which are tanbark and black. Sort of a piratical color scheme. Oh, and gold lettering in a really funky font for the transom. I've maybe been a little silly. And it's WAY FUN.
My standing rigging looks pretty good still, but I just changed out all the rigging on my Pacific Seacraft 25. It was so simple (Furling & Rigging in Costa Mesa, CA made it for me) that I am tempted to have them make me a new set for the Typhoon. It will be relatively inexpensive piece of mind, at least compared to the PS25 (SIX sets of shrouds, split backstay, and lifelines too).
Sooner or later I'll start taking pictures of the Valaskjalf and posting them. I got a digital camera for Yule so, hey, I should do that tomorrow! You should post pictures, too. Us Cape Dory newbies need to stick together.
I'm stripping the bottom paint using Interlux Interstrip 299, and then finishing the paint removal with the 399 product. The first one is gooey, and the 399 is watery. The gooey stuff eats the paint off, the 399 wipes away the mess, and then I sand to get the hull smooth. I've done this with a couple of boats. They've all had that nasty red, ablative anti-fouling paint. Usually a couple of badly done coats. The Interlux stuff takes it off pretty darn easily, and I only have to scrape off the chemically eaten paint goo with a plastic scraper. No hull damage. No evil, toxic sanding dust to speak of.
To prime the bottom for new paint I have used a Petite product, a really cool silver primer that goes on like magic. It works REALLY well, binding the subsequent anti-fouling to the hull. Can't remember the full name of it.
And I painted the transom black with shiny LPU paint to complement the new color of anti-fouling that I will put on, which will be black, and which will all tie in with my sails which are tanbark and black. Sort of a piratical color scheme. Oh, and gold lettering in a really funky font for the transom. I've maybe been a little silly. And it's WAY FUN.
My standing rigging looks pretty good still, but I just changed out all the rigging on my Pacific Seacraft 25. It was so simple (Furling & Rigging in Costa Mesa, CA made it for me) that I am tempted to have them make me a new set for the Typhoon. It will be relatively inexpensive piece of mind, at least compared to the PS25 (SIX sets of shrouds, split backstay, and lifelines too).
Sooner or later I'll start taking pictures of the Valaskjalf and posting them. I got a digital camera for Yule so, hey, I should do that tomorrow! You should post pictures, too. Us Cape Dory newbies need to stick together.
Cuique Sententia Mea