CD30 Bomar Hatch / removal / powdercoat

[John]

Can anyone describe what they went through removing a Bomar hatch from a CD30? I assume the screws (bolts) are machine thread. What are they threading into? Aluminum? Encapsulated nuts? Steel?

It appears simply breaking the caulking seal will release the hatch once the bolts are out. If there are any surprises I'd like to know about them in advance.

Has anyone powdercoated the hatches instead of painting them? It appears Bomar finished them originally with a thick epoxy based finish of some type. Eastwood Company makes a powdercoating system for about $150 that can be done by non-professionals. You use a special spray gun with about 8 psi pressure and clip a wire to the part being coated with the powder and spray on a even coat of the powder. Then you bake it at 400 degrees for 15 minutes and you wind up with a ready to use beautiful almost indestructible finish, far superior than paint systems. They have about 14 different colors available. It is used a lot in classic car restoration projects. The results are incredible and cheap.

I'm considering doing the hatches, traveller bridge, boom end fittings, roller furling drums. May have to send the traveller bridge out to a powdercoater because of its length. If anyone knows where there is a 40' oven I'd do the entire rig.

Does anyone know what product Bomar used to glaze the lexan in place? It does not look or feel like silicone or other beddings that I'm familiar with. It almost appears to be a rubber of some type, perhaps a thin self leveling version of polysulfide. Does anyone know for sure if liquid teak deck seam polysulfide is self leveling or not?

Does Rig-Rite do rigging parts refinishing like the boom ends, traveller bridge?

Does anyone know if Bomar refinishes the hatches if they are shipped to them? If so, what's the approximate costs?

[Walt Bilofsky]

Can anyone describe what they went through removing a Bomar hatch from a CD30? I assume the screws (bolts) are machine thread. What are they threading into? Aluminum? Encapsulated nuts? Steel?

It appears simply breaking the caulking seal will release the hatch once the bolts are out. If there are any surprises I'd like to know about them in advance.

I reset the two Bowmar hatches on my CD 30 flybridge powerboat - not the CD 30 you had in mind, but the hatches are probably similar. Mine was built in 1990.

I am not sure what the screws were but I believe they are sheet metal screws into the fiberglass - I don't think fancier mounting is necessary. There were no surprises - just remove screws, then pry and cut caulking to remove.

My experience has been that Cape Dory was too stingy on caulking (or didn't use shims properly) when setting hatches and windows. I reset both hatches and a window and solved the leak problems on all of them.

The post (link below) about resetting the window may be helpful in part - particularly how to recaulk and set.



bilofsky@toolworks.com

[Tom]

Can anyone describe what they went through removing a Bomar hatch from a CD30? I assume the screws (bolts) are machine thread. What are they threading into? Aluminum? Encapsulated nuts? Steel?

It appears simply breaking the caulking seal will release the hatch once the bolts are out. If there are any surprises I'd like to know about them in advance.

Has anyone powdercoated the hatches instead of painting them? It appears Bomar finished them originally with a thick epoxy based finish of some type. Eastwood Company makes a powdercoating system for about $150 that can be done by non-professionals. You use a special spray gun with about 8 psi pressure and clip a wire to the part being coated with the powder and spray on a even coat of the powder. Then you bake it at 400 degrees for 15 minutes and you wind up with a ready to use beautiful almost indestructible finish, far superior than paint systems. They have about 14 different colors available. It is used a lot in classic car restoration projects. The results are incredible and cheap.

I'm considering doing the hatches, traveller bridge, boom end fittings, roller furling drums. May have to send the traveller bridge out to a powdercoater because of its length. If anyone knows where there is a 40' oven I'd do the entire rig.

Does anyone know what product Bomar used to glaze the lexan in place? It does not look or feel like silicone or other beddings that I'm familiar with. It almost appears to be a rubber of some type, perhaps a thin self leveling version of polysulfide. Does anyone know for sure if liquid teak deck seam polysulfide is self leveling or not?

Does Rig-Rite do rigging parts refinishing like the boom ends, traveller bridge?

Does anyone know if Bomar refinishes the hatches if they are shipped to them? If so, what's the approximate costs?

John, Are you sure powder coating works around salt water. I have no personal experience, but started to have some done and the fellow at the metal fabricating shop told me that it doesn't hold up that well even in a dry climate and he didn't think it would work around salt water. I decided not to try it but another local fellow powder coated his mast. Within a year he was having it re-done. The powder coater claimed it was put on wrong and re-did it. I lost track of him after that so I don't know if he finally got it right or not. I'm not putting it down as I have no personal experience. Perhaps others on the board have had success.



TacCambria@thegrid.net

[John]

John, Are you sure powder coating works around salt water. I have no personal experience, but started to have some done and the fellow at the metal fabricating shop told me that it doesn't hold up that well even in a dry climate and he didn't think it would work around salt water. I decided not to try it but another local fellow powder coated his mast. Within a year he was having it re-done. The powder coater claimed it was put on wrong and re-did it. I lost track of him after that so I don't know if he finally got it right or not. I'm not putting it down as I have no personal experience. Perhaps others on the board have had success.

Tom, I saw an episode of "Ship Shape TV" where they powdercoated what I recall was a custom made aluminum transom platform for a power cruiser down here in Florida. I don't think they would go to that trouble and show it all over the air waves if it wasn't applicable to the salt enviroment. Go to their web site and drop them a line about it. I know they used some company down here called American Powder Coating.

In person, the finish appears as hard as a rock, like a piece of ceramic, so I assume much more durable and impervious to salt than paint since paint is not real hard unless you use a two part linear urethane. Even at that there is a difference in hardness from one brand to the next. I can't understand why the guy said it doesn't hold up well in a dry climate. It is used a lot by car restorers and they are extremely fussy. They tout it being far superior to paints, gloss quality as well. They use it a lot down here in Florida and you can't find a better testing ground for coating durability then down here.

I've seen it and I can't see how salt could begin to effect it unless the coating was too thin near sharp edges where even paint also tends to go on thinner. I know the person applying the powder has to apply a good even coat. It's no different than painting, it requires the same attention to preparation and application. As we all know preparation is everything to the quality of a high end paint job.

Perhaps the prep or application was the problem with the job on the guys mast. At least the powdercoater admitted it and offered to redo it for the guy, that's a rare breed these days. If you ever see the guy again I'd sure appreciate it if you would ask him how everything turned out and how its holding up compared to a paint job, then you could post the info for us.

Maybe ask that particular powdercoater about what your machine shop guy said. I've never heard anyone say anything about powder coating not holding up in a dry or wet climate. Thanks for your comments and maybe we can here from some others who have had some work done.

[John]

John, Are you sure powder coating works around salt water. I have no personal experience, but started to have some done and the fellow at the metal fabricating shop told me that it doesn't hold up that well even in a dry climate and he didn't think it would work around salt water. I decided not to try it but another local fellow powder coated his mast. Within a year he was having it re-done. The powder coater claimed it was put on wrong and re-did it. I lost track of him after that so I don't know if he finally got it right or not. I'm not putting it down as I have no personal experience. Perhaps others on the board have had success.

Tom, I saw an episode of "Ship Shape TV" where they powdercoated what I recall was a custom made aluminum transom platform for a power cruiser down here in Florida. I don't think they would go to that trouble and show it all over the air waves if it wasn't applicable to the salt enviroment. Go to their web site and drop them a line about it. I know they used some company down here called American Powder Coating.

In person, the finish appears as hard as a rock, like a piece of ceramic, so I assume much more durable and impervious to salt than paint since paint is not real hard unless you use a two part linear urethane. Even at that there is a difference in hardness from one brand to the next. I can't understand why the guy said it doesn't hold up well in a dry climate. It is used a lot by car restorers and they are extremely fussy. They tout it being far superior to paints, gloss quality as well. They use it a lot down here in Florida and you can't find a better testing ground for coating durability then down here.

I've seen it and I can't see how salt could begin to effect it unless the coating was too thin near sharp edges where even paint also tends to go on thinner. I know the person applying the powder has to apply a good even coat. It's no different than painting, it requires the same attention to preparation and application. As we all know preparation is everything to the quality of a high end paint job.

Perhaps the prep or application was the problem with the job on the guys mast. At least the powdercoater admitted it and offered to redo it for the guy, that's a rare breed these days. If you ever see the guy again I'd sure appreciate it if you would ask him how everything turned out and how its holding up compared to a paint job, then you could post the info for us.

Maybe ask that particular powdercoater about what your machine shop guy said. I've never heard anyone say anything about powder coating not holding up in a dry or wet climate. Thanks for your comments and maybe we can here from some others who have had some work done.

[Tom]

John, Are you sure powder coating works around salt water. I have no personal experience, but started to have some done and the fellow at the metal fabricating shop told me that it doesn't hold up that well even in a dry climate and he didn't think it would work around salt water. I decided not to try it but another local fellow powder coated his mast. Within a year he was having it re-done. The powder coater claimed it was put on wrong and re-did it. I lost track of him after that so I don't know if he finally got it right or not. I'm not putting it down as I have no personal experience. Perhaps others on the board have had success.

Tom, I saw an episode of "Ship Shape TV" where they powdercoated what I recall was a custom made aluminum transom platform for a power cruiser down here in Florida. I don't think they would go to that trouble and show it all over the air waves if it wasn't applicable to the salt enviroment. Go to their web site and drop them a line about it. I know they used some company down here called American Powder Coating.

In person, the finish appears as hard as a rock, like a piece of ceramic, so I assume much more durable and impervious to salt than paint since paint is not real hard unless you use a two part linear urethane. Even at that there is a difference in hardness from one brand to the next. I can't understand why the guy said it doesn't hold up well in a dry climate. It is used a lot by car restorers and they are extremely fussy. They tout it being far superior to paints, gloss quality as well. They use it a lot down here in Florida and you can't find a better testing ground for coating durability then down here.

I've seen it and I can't see how salt could begin to effect it unless the coating was too thin near sharp edges where even paint also tends to go on thinner. I know the person applying the powder has to apply a good even coat. It's no different than painting, it requires the same attention to preparation and application. As we all know preparation is everything to the quality of a high end paint job.

Perhaps the prep or application was the problem with the job on the guys mast. At least the powdercoater admitted it and offered to redo it for the guy, that's a rare breed these days. If you ever see the guy again I'd sure appreciate it if you would ask him how everything turned out and how its holding up compared to a paint job, then you could post the info for us.

Maybe ask that particular powdercoater about what your machine shop guy said. I've never heard anyone say anything about powder coating not holding up in a dry or wet climate. Thanks for your comments and maybe we can here from some others who have had some work done.

Now I'm sorry I let the guy talk me out of it. I was just doing my gallows so it would have been a good experiment to see. It was new technology to me and it's easy for people to spook you with stories of failures on unknown new products. Let us know here how it works for you.



TacCambria@thegrid.net

[Olli Wendelin]

John,

I removed the forward hatch on my CD30. It was attached with sheet metal screws into the fiberglass. I reseated with bedding compound. I also had to replace the lexan. I used clear silicon to bed it.

Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC



wendelin@spawar.navy.mil