I am planning some repairs on my 1976 Typhoon Weekender and have a few questions that some of you may have already answered:
1) I plan to replace the main. Would it be best to stay with the sewn on rope foot and luff, should I stay with the same type of batten arrangement or go with full battens and how high up the main should I have the reef points for slab reefing?
2) The previous owner apparently kept the battery in the port locker area. There is no support here for holding the battery box. The recessed area directly below the companionway seems to be a better place for a battery box. Where should it go?
3) The previous owner(s) had just a fuse block and a two position pull switch for the navigation and steaming light. Was this standard or added? Is there room in the bulkhead for a modern switch panel or where have some of you placed the switch panel.
4) Has anyone found a good source for replacing the interior cushions. Mine are usable, but should be replaced eventually.
Thank you in advance for any help some of you can give me. The boat sails like a dream. She recently tied for third in a recent eleven boat regatta, even after being nearly run down by a Newport 30 that decided to do a 180 directly in front of me. We hit beam to beam but suffered no damage.
John Phillips
broakmar@navix.net
Typhoon questions
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Don S.
Re: Typhoon questions
Search this BB for cushions and you'll get the address of a place in Mass. who has complete, original sets for cheap.4) Has anyone found a good source for replacing the interior cushions. Mine are usable, but should be replaced eventually.
don@cliggott.com
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Bill Bloxham
Re: Typhoon questions
I put my West Marine gel battery (U-1 group)in the forward cabin compartment on centerline. I built a frame of marine plywood, epoxy encapuslated, and epoxyed it to the hull. The weight re-distribution works for me (helps stop the hobbyhorsing).
I ran 10 guage wiring to a box I built that hangs off the starboard cabin wall just forward of the cabin bulkhead. The box contains the VHF, the stereo cassette unit and all my switches. Easy to get to and the box comes out for storage/security.
The charger for the battery is a small Guest 2612 that still works well after being completely surmerged when I left the boat open and left the scene. I mounted it where I found my original switches in the cabin rearward of the Porta Potty space
mmmmmmbill@aol.com
I ran 10 guage wiring to a box I built that hangs off the starboard cabin wall just forward of the cabin bulkhead. The box contains the VHF, the stereo cassette unit and all my switches. Easy to get to and the box comes out for storage/security.
The charger for the battery is a small Guest 2612 that still works well after being completely surmerged when I left the boat open and left the scene. I mounted it where I found my original switches in the cabin rearward of the Porta Potty space
mmmmmmbill@aol.com
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Harris
Re: Typhoon questions
Regarding your battery question. I would examine what you are going to use the boat for and consider doing without a battery. when I first got my boat the battery powered "8-track" stereo was inportant to me. Then I realised that it was the only thing I was using a battery for as well as VHF. Then started removing stuff (weight) fromt he boat. Goodbye water tank..battery.....head.......extra anchor.....extra sails......v berth cusions......extra gas tank (3 gallons in enough). Granted I mostly daysail but in todays electronic age I feelt that individual electronic devices running off AA batteries or such are more dependable that a system depending on a single battery. Unless you are going offshore and need trunning lights for a long period of time you can do fine with portable running lights ...VHF....stereo.....etc.. Pick up a book by the Pardys. Even a motor is an exess headache for them.
hg@myhost.com
hg@myhost.com
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John Phillips
Re: Typhoon questions
Harris:
I appreciate your suggestions. In fact I do sail the Typhoon without a motor and my vhf and gps are both battery operated. My only serious 12v need is in the running lights and if I would add a compass that has a night light. I hope to do some coastal sailing this winter and am concerned with temporary lights for navigation and anchor lights. I am not certain that a tanker at night would really pay much heed to me whether I had bright or dim nav lights, but at least I would be well lit while sinking.
John
broakmar@navix.net
I appreciate your suggestions. In fact I do sail the Typhoon without a motor and my vhf and gps are both battery operated. My only serious 12v need is in the running lights and if I would add a compass that has a night light. I hope to do some coastal sailing this winter and am concerned with temporary lights for navigation and anchor lights. I am not certain that a tanker at night would really pay much heed to me whether I had bright or dim nav lights, but at least I would be well lit while sinking.
John
Regarding your battery question. I would examine what you are going to use the boat for and consider doing without a battery. when I first got my boat the battery powered "8-track" stereo was inportant to me. Then I realised that it was the only thing I was using a battery for as well as VHF. Then started removing stuff (weight) fromt he boat. Goodbye water tank..battery.....head.......extra anchor.....extra sails......v berth cusions......extra gas tank (3 gallons in enough). Granted I mostly daysail but in todays electronic age I feelt that individual electronic devices running off AA batteries or such are more dependable that a system depending on a single battery. Unless you are going offshore and need trunning lights for a long period of time you can do fine with portable running lights ...VHF....stereo.....etc.. Pick up a book by the Pardys. Even a motor is an exess headache for them.
broakmar@navix.net
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Richard Stephens
Stand-alone anchor light
I agree 100% with Harris's approach to electronics. The great thing about a boat like the Typhoon is you spend much less time messing about with the on-board systems and more time sailing.
When I was required by the NY Park Police to show an anchor light at my mooring (it's a long story...) I thought I was going to have to give in and fit a battery, solar panel, wire up the mast, etc. However, I hit on the idea of using a solar-powered exterior light (designed to provide "accent" lighting for a garden). It has a 2 inch solar panel on top, 2 AA NiCads, a white LED, it turns on and off automatically and cost about $25. On a sunny day in the summer, it stores sufficient charge to stay on for 10 hours. I have modified it to suspend it between the forestay and the bow cleat. Next year, I'm going to mount it permanently at the masthead.
Of course, it is not coastguard approved, and I don't think it would stand up to a salt-water environment, but it works for me!
rstephens@alexusa.com
When I was required by the NY Park Police to show an anchor light at my mooring (it's a long story...) I thought I was going to have to give in and fit a battery, solar panel, wire up the mast, etc. However, I hit on the idea of using a solar-powered exterior light (designed to provide "accent" lighting for a garden). It has a 2 inch solar panel on top, 2 AA NiCads, a white LED, it turns on and off automatically and cost about $25. On a sunny day in the summer, it stores sufficient charge to stay on for 10 hours. I have modified it to suspend it between the forestay and the bow cleat. Next year, I'm going to mount it permanently at the masthead.
Of course, it is not coastguard approved, and I don't think it would stand up to a salt-water environment, but it works for me!
rstephens@alexusa.com