Gelcoat vs. Awl-Grip

[RMeigel]

I just received an estimate for re-doing the topsides with an Awl-Grip paint job.

I haven't sought a quote yet for re-spraying gelcoat instead of painting - but I'm told to expect it to be higher.

I just saw a Cape Dory 28 in Herrington North that has had the topsides done in sprayed gelcoat. To die for. Our boats haven't looked like that since they left the factory floor.

What should I know about each option? More experienced thoughts are requested.

Robin

[Parfait's Provider]

My 1978 motorhome was Awl-Gripped at the factory. It looks better than my 1983 Cape Dory and will still take a polishing. Can't say the same for Parfait. Not sure that is a clue, but it might be worth considering.

[Ron M.]

Have you tried wet sanding and buffing your gelcoat ? it will look like new.
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[CaptRaul]

I app;ied Awl_Grip to Sarah last year and the results were outstanding. The prep work is the most time consuming..and if you are having it done by others, it will be the main cost of the job if you are looking for a professional finish. If you have the time and interest to prep the boat yourself you will save a lot of money. Awl Grip can be sprayed or brushed on, and if done properly the end result will look the same.

[Parfait's Provider]

Sight unseen, I had an estimate of 200-300 hours to redo the teak and topsides of Parfait. That translates into $13,000 to $19,500 at $65 an hour; some labor will be less, but for ballpark estimates this works. Add 15% for materials. I had an independent estimate of $2500 for the teak alone with stripping, sealing, and three coats of Cetol.

[RMeigel]

The concern that is nagging me is this - we all see gelcoat cracking. Even if you prep the cracks and then awl grip over it, if the underlying problem is the gelcoat, won't it crack under the awlgrip? In places it hasn't necessarily cracked before?

For those who've had the deck awl gripped - are the cracks a thing of the past?

[CaptRaul]

Cracks in the gelcoat are all part of the prep work BEFORE you apply the paint. Any irregularities will have to be repaired if you want good results..painting over won't get the job done in my opinion. Any voids, cracks, etc deeper than 1/16" should be opened up and filled with the proper filler or epoxy.

[Russell]

Considering the ecessive crazing and cracking which CDs are prone to is generally blamed on the gelcoat having been applied too thick in the first place, I would think grinding a lot of the gelcoat off would be a good idea. Certainly labor intensive though, as it would require a lot of fairing work after grinding.

I just finished painting my decks with 1 part paint. The previous owner had done the same and it was starting to peel and looked horrible. I want to do a proper job on it using awlgrip, but that was more project then I was willing to take on. So being sick of looking at peeling paint, I just did a quicky 1 part paint job. Only ment to last a year, with plans to do a proper job in turkey next year.

[Dan & Pat]

I made a call to a local boat yard this past weekend asking this exact same question, and they put their expert on the line with me. Without exageration, he stayed on the line for half an hour with me, answering all of my questions and concerns, and explaining the differences in preparation, application, and maintenance for both, gelcoating and awlgrip. He was an old-timer (like me ), and when he found out I am working on an old CD 25 it piqued his interest just a bit.

He invited me down to look at a 37' Chris Craft sailboat from the 1960's that they had just done with Awlgrip. It was nothing short of awesome. It was applied using "Roll and Tip" method, with three guys working in unison, and took under 3 hours to apply. They only did the hull, no topside stuff, and only one coat. Granted, it was done in a controlled environment and by professionals, but you could see your reflection in the finish.

His comments and recommendations and reasoning for using Awlgrip:

1. Slightly more costly for materials, but less labor intensive for application, and post-application so less costly overall.

2. Less work after application in the form of repeated sandings, buffing and polishing.

3. Easier for touch-up's and repairs, even 5 plus years after application.

He offered to give me a call the next time they do another boat, so I can come and watch the process, and even to learn how to do the application myself. They do one every few weeks or so. I'll follow up once I've seen it myself, but after seeing the finish on this beautiful old boat, I've decided what finish I want.

Dan

[Ron M.]

Awlgrip certainly does produce a fine finish, but it is very unforgiving and I believe difficult even for some "professionals" to get right.
Some of the newer 2 part poly's are much less fastidious to use with equal results,(Perfection-Interlux is one). I did my boat with a 2 part acrylic 3 years ago with terrific results.
I have seen pro's do and use everything right and spray on a top coat of Awlgrip and run into unimagined problems=more time and $. I don't mean to dis Awlgrip but in my experience it is difficult to use- under the best circumstances. I want to point out there are alternatives that should be researched.
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