Docking, rafting and anchoring. Need helpful hints/advice

[Tom Foley]

I have just started cruising in my CD 25 and could usea lot of advice on docking anchoring and rafting.
Thanks
Tom Foley
Kennebunk



alewifehouse@mainecoast.net

[Tom]

I have just started cruising in my CD 25 and could usea lot of advice on docking anchoring and rafting.
Thanks
Tom Foley
Kennebunk

As far as rafting goes, I don't like to do it because if there is any wave or wake action you can damage your rail. If you're going to do it put out all the fenders you have spaced along the boat and tie off bow and stern fairly snugly.

Anchoring is a complex subject depending upon under power or sail, wind, waves, other boats in the area, weather predictions, type of bottom, type of rode, and all that. Assuming you're using nylon rode, the weather is moderate and you have plenty of room, first determine the depth of the water by fathometer or with a lead line. Lay out a minimum of three times that depth (you've previously marked your anchor line so you know the lengths) and cleat it off at the bow cleat. Return to the helm and bring the bow up into the wind and forereach (coast) until the forward motion is off the boat. As the boat starts to back downwind slowly lower the anchor over the side and let out the rode hand over hand at about the same speed you're drifting downwind. When all the line is out, let go and the anchor should set. Keep you hand on the line and you'll learn to feel it skipping over the bottom and what it feels like when it catches. You'll probably be drifting sideways by this time because sloops and cutters have more windage forward and this tends to turn the boat downwind. When the anchor sets, the bow will suddenly whip around into the wind and the rode will become taut. "Set" it by putting the engine in reverse or if under sail by backwinding the sails. If the anchor never catches haul it in, let out more scope and try again. If there are people on nearby boats sail by (without crossing over their anchor line) and ask them beforehand how much scope they have out so that you can put out the same amount and you will all swing together. Once your anchor is "set" let out more scope as needed. As needed means as the wind and waves get stronger you need more scope perhaps 10 or 15 to 1 or more. The One refers to the depth of the water you are anchoring in. For example, if you are in 20 feet of water 2 to 1 would be 40 feet. 10 to 1 would be 200 feet. Take some compass bearings in different directions and study them for awhile to make sure you're not slowly drifting. That's your basic procedure but there are hundreds of variations. There are many books written on the subject, read some and then give it a try on a moderate day. This is one of those things where practice will make perfect.

Docking advice depends upon whether you're under power or sail, an upwind dock or downwind dock, which way the current is flowing, if you have a crew to throw a line ashore, and things like that. Too complex to explain in a few sentences here, but if you have a specific situation that's a problem spell out all the factors and we'll see what we can do. Practice pulling up and stopping along side a buoy or some stationary object away from other boats before you try a dock with other boats around. Generally you approach a dock into the current so that when you ease up the current will stop you. Sort of like holding yourself on a hill with an automatic transmission. When you ease up you coast backward and when you give it power you can move ever so slowly into it. Thus you can bring yourself to the dock dead slow. If the wind is opposed to the current or the current comes over the side then it gets trickier. What's the situation at the dock you're trying to pull up to? You can learn a lot through observation. Spend an afternoon at the local fuel dock (or whereever) watching boats pull up to the dock. Which way is the wind blowing, which way is the current flowing, from which direction do they approach the dock, how fast are they moving, which line do they cleat first, etc. Put yourself in the skipper's position, i.e., if you were approaching this dock in that boat how would approach it (from which direction?) How fast would you approach? Which line would you cleat first?

Email me with specific questions if you like. Glad to help.





TacCambria@thegrid.net

[Neil Gordon]

Try a good, comprehensive boating/sailing book as a start. It'll be worth the $30 or so.

Docking is a matter of practice. Find an empty slip and practice pulling in and backing out. You'll get to know how your boat reacts to various wind conditions. After that, you'll learn to check the wind and will know how the boat will behave (or *if* it will behave). Good news is that most marinas will be able to give you a hand with lines; a couple of minutes notice on the radio should be sufficient.

Rafting is pretty easy... if you're rafting to a boat that's moored/anchored, your approach will be into the wind. Just pull along side *slowly* and with all your fenders out. You tie up just like you would to a dock, except make sure one mast is ahead of the other so the spreaders don't hit when the boats roll.

Anchoring isn't hard, either. Read the book, then go out on an easy day in not too deep water (easier on the back <s>) and practice. Mostly it's a matter of approaching the anchorage slowly, losing headway, lowering the anchor and backing downwind until you have enough rode out. Make sure the bitter end of the rode is attached to the boat!

I'll again suggest you read a bit and come back here with more specific questions. Whole books have been written on anchoring, etc.


Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167



neil@nrgordon.com

[zeida]

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE!
On docking: ALWAYS be aware of where the wind is coming from and understand that you will have to take in into account. Learn how much forward movement your boat still has after you have put the engine in neutral, and you just glide into the slip or into the final stop. Get used to how much revving your engine needs to make the boat move a bit more forward or reverse. Remember you can NOT steer her in reverse. She will go where she wants to. On backing out: practice all of the above.
Anchoring: 7 to 1 scope is good on the CD-25. She will even hold OK to a 4 to 1 scope.
Zeida



zcecil@ibm.net

[Chris Reinke (CD330 Innis]

Tom - I would offer a few additional items to the wonderful list of recommendations you have already received. If you do not already own a copy of Chapman’s Piloting then I would suggest you get a copy. Some folks have referred to it as "the boating bible". I will just suggest you get your hands on a copy and look it over.

When rafting - It is common practice to contact the party you will be rafting with before hand. Try and work out all the details before you get to your destination such as who is providing the ground tackle, which sides to bumper, etc. A good procedure is to have the approaching vessel approach from down wind and proceed slightly past the anchored vessel and toss over a bow line. Try to avoid motoring directly along side the anchored vessel until you have a bit more experience on how your boat will respond. Once the bow line is secured allow the wind to blow the approaching boat down. As the bow line tightens the approaching vessel will swing along side. The key is to allow everything to happen at a VERY slow pace. Taking an extra 3 minutes to secure the boats together will save you a significant amount of time, and expense, compared to replacing your stanchions.

One additional item to remember. If both boats are sailboats then keep an eye on your rig. Two boats in my marina exchanged aluminum when all hands stood along the bumpered rails and the healing caused the spreaders to hit.

I have just started cruising in my CD 25 and could usea lot of advice on docking anchoring and rafting.
Thanks
Tom Foley
Kennebunk

Chris.reinke@transamerica.com

[Catherine Monaghan]

Tom,

The most important thing to remember when carrying out any type of maneuver in close quarters is to "go slow".

While approaching a dock or another boat, you should be travelling as slowly as you possibly can while still maintaining steerage. If you do accidentally bump into something, the damage will be minimal if any. Your CD is very heavy and has alot of momentum. You'll be surprised at just how far she will continue to travel while in neutral.

catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 Realization
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

I have just started cruising in my CD 25 and could usea lot of advice on docking anchoring and rafting.
Thanks
Tom Foley
Kennebunk

catherine_monaghan@merck.com

[Catherine Monaghan]

Tom,

Another good how-to book is "Dockmanship" by David Owen Bell. It's published by Cornell Maritime Press and is only $6.95 and worth every penny. I've read it twice.

catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 Realization
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Tom,

The most important thing to remember when carrying out any type of maneuver in close quarters is to "go slow".

While approaching a dock or another boat, you should be travelling as slowly as you possibly can while still maintaining steerage. If you do accidentally bump into something, the damage will be minimal if any. Your CD is very heavy and has alot of momentum. You'll be surprised at just how far she will continue to travel while in neutral.

catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 Realization
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

I have just started cruising in my CD 25 and could usea lot of advice on docking anchoring and rafting.
Thanks
Tom Foley
Kennebunk

catherine_monaghan@merck.com