Headliner painting

[Russell]

I am considering painting my headliner. It has the not uncommon yellowish stains, but also has a few spots of crazing. The thing that concerns me is the headliner is textured, not just flat smooth. I cant imagine how one could get a decent finish on it without sanding and fairing it. Also since the mounts for the handrails and teak trim that runs across are moulded in make matters more complicated again. Anyone with tips on this? Searching the archives just brought up articles about painting it, no mention of dealing with the texture.

Part of me wonders if going the Pacific Seacraft route is the right solution, basicly covering the existing headliner with zip away vinyl. But getting that to fit right has to be a real pain and I dont really like the look. Really what I would like is to turn my textured headliner into a smooth glossy finish, reflect more light and look great.

The worst part is I live on my boat, any possible option probable option sounds impossible in that sense.

Anyways, the bulk of the question, dealing with the existing texture, sand it down to smooth? Or perhaps cover it with fairing compound and smooth it out?

[Oswego John]

If I were to do the job on my boat, I would wash it good, seal any stains, fair it out smooth and paint it with a non latex, low odor, light colored paint.

My own personal preference would be to use a semi gloss or matte finish. High gloss paint tends to show every little imperfection. A finish with less sheen will still reflect light and brighten things up a lot.

Have fun,
O J

[marka]

I painted the headliner on Linda Jean when I had the interior removed for refinishing a couple of years ago.

For prep I scuffed up the smooth sections with either sandpaper or scotch bright pads (can'tr remember which) then I cleaned thoroughly with soap & water. I masked off all the teak that met the headliner then I painted using good old rustoleum semigloss (white).

For application I used a foam trim roller and I think I did 3 coats. The stuff sticks like glue and has held up fantastic. I chose semigloss over flat because it's much easier to clean. The white really brightened things up and it's held up great.

Perhaps the best part was the price, about $7.00/qt.

[Ed Norton]

Russell
I painted the headliner of my CD 27 4 years ago. I cleaned it very well and saned lightly just to make sure all the years of residue were remived. I used Muralo Ultra Waterbore (eggshell) I had the color matched. The boat interior looks like it came out of the showroom. I know there is great fear of waterbased paints on boats. This is a new generstion of 100% acrylic paints that were designed to replace oils. The ahhesion is better than oil low odor and it dries in a couple of hours. It can be washed (if needed) and is stain proof.
Ed Norton
CD 27 #89
SLLEEK

[marilou]

My Cape Dory 270 has white Formica panels held with teak trim. Being Hull #1 this was before they made the molded headliner. This has certain advantages...easy access if needed...easy to clean...many color choices.

[Ron M.]

Marilou, I have given serious consideration to using laminates on my headliner. I painted it a few years ago but the cracks are starting to show through again. I think it would be a good choice and look good using teak trim.
Many years ago I rebuilt a kitchen for an Italian gentleman, big family and he owned a restaurant. He wanted everything in that kitchen covered with formica. Doors and jambs, cabinets, ceiling,walls. I thought at the time how gawdy but when the sauce started flying and the sausages popped it was a snap to clean up.
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Honda RA271 specifications

[Gary M]

My CD's headliner has hairline cracks just below the mast step. This really concerned me prior to purchase but when I removed the inspection plate and exposed the deck there was no sign of any damage. Top side around the mast step, again no sign of any damage. I am baffled why there are hair line cracks in the head liner in this area but I'm convinced now that it is nothing structural. I just don't want to look at them any more!

I'll be looking at this thread. I'd love to see these spider cracks go away to the distant past of boats gone by!

Gary

[Russell]

My CD's headliner has hairline cracks just below the mast step. This really concerned me prior to purchase but when I removed the inspection plate and exposed the deck there was no sign of any damage. Top side around the mast step, again no sign of any damage. I am baffled why there are hair line cracks in the head liner in this area but I'm convinced now that it is nothing structural. I just don't want to look at them any more!

I'll be looking at this thread. I'd love to see these spider cracks go away to the distant past of boats gone by!

Gary

Gary, I am in the same "boat" as you. My headliner as a whole doesnt bother me, I just have spider cracks that drive me nuts. I know its nother structeral, probably just normal from the boat flexing. But it drives me nuts, a visitor on my boat would probably not notice them, but they are glaring to me.

Lots of interesting advice so far on paints to use. But faring I still am not seeing. Simply sanding what is their does not strike me as a good option, even if I sanded it smooth I would still have to fare it. I imagine the headline texture for CDs changed from year to year and model to model. My headliner is very bumpy, before painting, especially considering the crazing, some sort of faring needs to be done, that is where I am most looking for advice. For paint I will probably use a good quality polyeurethane paint, so it is ultra glossy and reflects plenty of light, but prep before that I am lost on. The idea of just putting some formica up there is appealing, but my CD36 headline is not condusive to that, it is moulded, the teak trim all sits on molded peices that are part of the headliner, it is in no way flat.

[Paul D.]

I'll chime in with my vote for a good acryllic paint. I have not used these aboard but we have used them at my wilderness camp with great success in outdoor applications painting over plastics. It is tough stuff and adheres well. A Septic lift tank that was un-wilderness friendly Yellow was painted "rustic brown" and after 10 years in the woods of the north country it is still that colour.

If I were doing the job on our boat I would definately consider the acrylic paint options. I would imagine color choice may be less so it may take some research.

Best of luck,
Paul

[plumber]

I also have been looking at my headliner with the same thing in mind. I did fix the same sort of problem on another boat not too many years ago and had some real problems. I tryed several types of paint and processes but could not get the paint to stick and look good too. I did end up with with something that to this day still looks great. I got a large piece of mohair materal and some spray adheasive. It covered all the crackes and paint touch-ups. Goes on smooth and can be worked around the curves without rinkles. Not that this is something you should do to a CD but another option.
Brace

[Tod Mills]

semi-gloss acrylic latex enamel on his interiors.

This is a boat he and his wife restored for their own use, a Rhodes Seafarer Meridian:

Before:

<img src=http://www.todspages.net/images/Tehani-whatamessaft.jpg>

and After:

<img src=http://www.todspages.net/images/Tehani-settee-aft.jpg>

They are my inspiration on my own project boat.

[Troy Scott]

Russell,

The headliner in my CD36 was painted sometime before I bought her. It is a huge mess. It is peeling and flaking badly. I've been scraping it, but there is a lot left to do. As I scrape, I've yet to find why it was painted. The headliner seems original in every way above the paint. I see NO EVIDENCE that the surface was prepared in any way. I suspect that's why the paint if all peeling off. I have no idea what kind of paint was used. My advice is to prepare the surface well. I believe that's actually more important than the kind of paint you use. I would start by cleaning with TSP. Rinse well, then clean with acetone, changing rags often. Then sand the entire surface. You don't necessarily have to sand away all the texture, just the tops of all the tiny bumps. Use a flat but washable paint. The flat will hide imperfections far better. It might not hurt to have a little (compatible) mildewcide mixed into the paint. Good luck!

[Ron M.]

Mildew can be a problem on painted interior surfaces . I have a few areas where the stains just can't be removed. Always tried to keep some ventilation but those humid July and August days allow it to get a foothold . I used paint with mildewcide, hang those bags, installed solar vents to no avail. If I don't wipe the interior down weekly it starts again. I sure would like to stop this hassel. I don't have this problem on varnished surfaces.
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VAPOLUTION

[Troy Scott]

Ron,

What do you use when you wipe down the interior?

[Ron M.]

Troy, Just about every thing. Lysol, 409, greased lightening , stuff from West to clean and prevent mildew growing, mildew stuff from Home D. in concentrate for siding, diluted bleach. And a bunch of other stuff including Majic Pads. like I said some stains will not come out. Any suggestions ?
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Stobart vk m-sport ford rally team picture