What glue for teak plugs/bungs?

[rhunter]

Replacing missing plugs.Do I need to seal with 5200? No leaks noticed at presant. Bob

[marilou]

DO NOT USE 3M 5200. You may need to remove the plugs/screws at some future time. No need for epoxies.

Just about any exterior glue will work. The plugs are to hide the screw heads - not necessarily to make the screws watertight.

Gorilla Glue, Titebond II, Titebond Premium III, are examples of glues that can be used.

[Tim Mertinooke]

What has worked well for me in the past believe it or not is a dab of hot melt glue. It is quick, clean, and relatively easy to remove should you want to in the future. So far after three years of good use in salt water I have had none pop out. I cover my teak with varnish and with sufficient build have found that they stay in place. Good luck. Tim

[Russell]

I ussually use either epoxy or regular wood glue, as of later ussually epoxy more often then not.

[Steve Laume]

If I am going to varnish the woodwork I use the same varnish to hold the plugs in. I worry more about getting the plugs out than keeping them in. Any glue would do. This is definitely an area where less is more, Steve.

[Didereaux]

Go with Steve's suggestion. Use varnish. This matches perfectly with you finish. If the wood is unfinished same thing, the line left is less noticeable, it water seals and also is cheaper and far less messy than epoxies and other glues. And it does hold just as well in this instance.

g'Luk

[Judith]

The varnish idea just makes so much sense. . .and I never would've thought of that.

Judith

[Troy Scott]

Folks,

For small pieces of teak like grabrails, eyebrows, etc.., do most of you remove them to do a good varnish job and them replace them? That worked well for me on my Pearson, but I'm not so sure on my CD36. I do know that the coamings need to be rebedded anyway.....

[Ron M.]

Troy , I can't see the point on removing the bungs to refinish. Treat them the same as the surrounding material. Now, if you want to disassemble a component you will have to remove them. Try drilling a hole in the center of the bung,(so you can thread a screw through it). As you screw through the bung the screw will bottom out on the screw below and as you continue lift the bung out - usually. If not a sharp awl or ice pick will allow you to pick out the plug without damaging the material around it.
Rebedding your combing boards is a worthy project. I did mine last fall, (actually I made new ones). Get them off and cleaned up. Much easier to get a good finish on them off the boat. I also replaced the hardware, (sheet metal screws)with machine screws fender washers and nylocs.
As you reinstall them snug up the screws until caulk begins to squeeze all along the board.Pay attention to the 2 screws that go through the cabin sides into the teak blocks on the interior. Oink those down first and work your way aft. You should get a good tight fit at the forward end where that angled vee goes to the cabin side.
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Spice weed