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I'm the proud new owner of "Pura Vida" a 76 Ty weekender Just brought down to Westport on Fri and currently up on stands, hoping to be in by next weekend.
I have a couple of thoughts that were running around in my head as I was cleaning the boat up today. I would appreciate any and all opinions and related experience anyone can provide.
While I am somewhat hesitant to drill or cut into the boat there are a few things I was thinking about.
1) some sort of ventilation vent.
2) cutting an opening to get into the rear space behind the tiller.
3) securing the motor mount
A while back, a friend of mine had his top drop board routered out with three slots (angled down towards the cockpit) cut through and then put some plastic screening behind it with a small teak frame (to make it look good on the inside).
That was all he had to do to keep the mildew down in the cabin.
did two of these things to my '76:
1 - nicro solar vent forward of the front of the cabin, about halfway between the cabin and the mooring cleat.
2- 4 inch round deck plate installed in the cockpit bulkhead behind the tiller.
duct tape the area to be cut, pencil in a circle, cut the holes with a metal cutting blade on a good jig saw, dig out about an inch of the deck core all around for the solar vent hole (not necessary behind the tiller), fill with thickend west system epoxy, let cure, drill holes to secure the deck plates, secure the solar vent and the deck plate cap.
I put a low profile vent in the sliding hatch. It is a high and dry location and if it does take on water it falls to the cabin sole. There is no core there to deal with. I made a teak base ring to bump it up just a bit for better clearance when you slide the hatch.
I changed the original main sheeting to a traveler so I had the holes from the original block in the aft deck. To be able to install the traveler, cover the holes and gain some stowage I cut a 6" inspection port in the aft deck just behind the traveler. Small fenders will drop right in there and yo can get your arm in to grab things.
For motor security I installed a stainless steel U bolt just forward of the motor bracket with a hefty backing plate.
A second stern cleat and chock is another great improvement to the standard TY set up while you are back there messing around.
The Typhoon is a great boat and you are going to have a world of fun with her. New boat in the water within a week is interesting. Everything always seems to take much longer than I expect. Don't forget to service those seacocks before she goes in, Steve.
Steve Laume wrote:....... Don't forget to service those seacocks before she goes in, Steve.
Quoted because that cannot be said enough.
I'm putting in new ones, because the ones in there scare the hell out of me. Also, taking out marine head and capping off fittings.
Great advise everyone, much appreciated.
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A well maintained CD won't show her 30 years of age. Her beauty, character and excellent design overshadow the passing of the years. In return for the care and maintenance shown to the boat, you will be rewarded with many pleasant memories of great sails and possible adventures.
The Ty, in so many instances, has been proven to be a stepping stone to larger CDs which possess amenities more suitable for the coastal and blue water cruising scene.
Question:
You say that you are removing the marine head. The reason that I am concerned is that I'm curious to find out what was the last year that CD installed marine heads without holding tanks (white water and black water).
The early Tys did come with factory installed marine heads fitted for direct overboard pumpout. The Ty Weekender is too small to contain holding tanks for the head. For this reason, many Ty owners have switched to Porta-potties.
I'm wondering if 1976 was the last year for marine heads in Ty WEs, or maybe other owners of later year models had one too?
FWIW, since your boat is still on the hard, give your rudder system a good hard look. Especially look for traces of blade separation where it attaches to the rudder post. Also check the very bottom of the rudder post for slop and excessive lateral and vertical motion in the shoe that supports the it.
You might also check the chainplates for signs of rust. Look for nicks and wire whiskers, also old kinks in the standing rigging and traces of rust and wear in the terminations.
What is your hull number? I just launched my '76 Ty this past weekend on Lake George, NY - complete overhaul and she sails fine. I have a Nicro vent on the foredeck - the location on the cabin hatch sounds interesting since this is the weakest link - I don't dare step on it so putting a vent there makes sense. Be sure to caulk around the teak plate where the rudder post goes through the cockpit sole.
Steve Laume wrote:....... Don't forget to service those seacocks before she goes in, Steve.
Quoted because that cannot be said enough.
I'm putting in new ones, because the ones in there scare the hell out of me. Also, taking out marine head and capping off fittings.
Great advise everyone, much appreciated.
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Not only does it take more time than expected as Steve said, it's more money. I underestimated all those "little" things. After researching seacocks and going over a fine discussion on this board last year, I'm practically horrified at the thought that I could have been out in the bay with the frozen up "valves" there now.
Once again, thanks for all the advise/opinions...great food for thought, not sure what I'm going to do with the venting yet, probably a hybrid of ideas.
Another question. What does everyone do with their outboard gas tank? Mine currently is back under the cockpit on the port side with the line snaked out through the vent hole in the stern.
Congrats of buying a Ty! You are going to love it!
I'd be a little bit concerened about storing the gas tank below deck. I did for a while and it seemed like everytime I opened up the cabin I could smell fumes, even with the tank vent closed. I think when the boat heated up in the sun, the fuel expanded and some fumes escaped. The tank was often pressurized by the summer heat. I ended up storing the tank in the cockpit when I put the boat away after a sail. Honestly, after my first year, I got rid of the motor and tank entirely. I never seemed to need it. She moved fine in the lightest air, and I learned to drop the jib and shoot the mooring on the main. Not having the engine hanging way off the stern improved the boat's balance when sailing, and she looked better on the mooring too, nice and even on the boot stripe.
One other thing to look for is the infamous housing compression problem, and stiffening post solution which has been thoroughly documented on this board.
Lastly, don't overtighten your rigging. She sails better with it a little loose.
Just brought down to Westport on Fri and currently up on stands, hoping to be in by next weekend. 
