Teak repair

[Scott B.]

Much is written about maintaining teak. Sorry if this is repetitive. I have purchased an old CD25 and the teak needs complete work, although structurally sound. Sounds like the best way to work the combing is to remove it (will also allow cleaning behind it). Handrails removed also. However the rubrail, and toe rails appear to be a bigger job. Seems better to leave in place and mask off. Any opinions on sanding versus chemical cleaners? Also, I have heard varnish many times, and Cetol a few times which I used on the teak of my Compac. I would think the varnish job lasts longer. Any suggestions on varnish products? Reasonable number of coats? Sanding between coats? Any info would be appreciated as the work starts after the interior is cleaned.

[Neil Gordon]

There's lots in the archives about teak and varnish and cetol. Short version:

Coamings are relatively easy to remove. Toe rails, not so.

Multi coats of varnish look best but are hardest (i.e., time consuming) to maintain.

Cetol is an aesthetic compromise but can spend more time sailing.

[Carl Thunberg]

Neil's summary is about as accurate and succinct as it gets. Seriously, search the archives. There's a lot there and it's worth the time to go through it. Try as much as possible to stear away from chemical strippers. Some of them can damage fiberglass, and aluminum spars. A heat gun, scraper, and sandpaper work fine. There's something to be said for the Zen of sanding. A little trisodium phosphate (TSP) goes a long way for cleaning the teak once you've sanded. Teak cleaners are caustic, and let's face it, we don't want to turn our back yards into toxic waste dumps.

I also have a CD25 and I'm in the process of re-doing all the teak, just like you are. The coamings, handrails, and companionway boards are done. Now the tedious work on toe and rub-rails begins. One thing that keeps me going when the scraping and sanding get tedious is the knowledge that somewhere out there a fellow sailor and CD owner is doing the same thing.

[bhartley]

Based on the condition of our Typhoon's toe rails, someone had gotten carried away sanding the tops of the rails and had whittled the teak plugs down to nothing in may places. The counterbore may be quite shallow and once you have sanded the plug away, it gets ugly.

The teak colored Boatlife caulk on the screw heads didn't fool anyone.

Happy sanding!

[Neil Gordon]

One thing that keeps me going when the scraping and sanding get tedious is the knowledge that somewhere out there a fellow sailor and CD owner is doing the same thing.

Not to burst your commiseration bubble, but somewhere out there a fellow sailor and CD owner had enough of scraping and sanding and went sailing instead.

[Carl Thunberg]

N/M

[Neil Gordon]

Carl,

Not to disparage maintaining the brightest of brightwork... you'll get all sorts of compliments and praise as people pass by. Some of us don't get that, in part because our brightwork isn't bright enough and in part because we're not at the dock when people pass by.

[Greg Ross]

A suggestion, if, in spite of what Neil Gordon recommends you're determined to sand and refinish your Toe rails and Rub Rails I have the following suggestions;
To avoid sanding the adjacent fiberglass gelcoat (which will invariably happen!) locate some thin flexible sheet, ABS plastic etc. that can be trimmed to suit the curvature particurlarly of the toe rail to protect the deck.
Either tape this guard in place, or hold with the other hand as you work along with the sanding block. And definitely use a sanding block. You will probably have to start aggressively with about 80 grit. would also suggest the wet/ dry type with the fabric backing. I think it's well worth the price. Teak is oily and once the sand paper is loaded with dust you can get this wet/ dry to clear with flexing etc.