Teak Question

[barfwinkle]

Hello to all

Well I have been shamed (again, Thanks Chuck) to working on my teak. After looking at the handy work, I got the idea to remove the piece of teak at the aft end of the cockpit of my 25D. There was only 5 screws, so I removed the bungs, and screws and then expected a battle to remove the teak. I expected a strong bond of 5200 but to my surprise it popped right off!

Now for the question What is the likelihood that the coamings would pop off that easily?

TIA and Fair Winds.

[fenixrises]

Hi,

If its anything like my 28 then they will pop right off as well,
EXCEPT for the adhesive holding the forward end to the blocks attached to the cabin sides.

Take care,
Fred

[Carl Thunberg]

Bill,

Don't hesitate to take the coamings off. Mine came off fine and I can thank the previous owner for not using 5200. Frankly I wish they never invented the stuff! Taking the coamings off makes the refinishing job so much easier, plus it allows you to access the back side of the board that's inaccessible otherwise.

Carl

[RichMason]

I removed some of my teak to varnish it but I ran into a vexing questions that stopped me cold - when and how do you varnish the plugs to cover the screws?

[Carl Thunberg]

Rich,

First, let me flatly state that I'm no expert at this stuff, but I have been through it recently and I've read a lot of the previous threads on varnishing. I see the choice of when to varnish the plugs to be one of convenience and preference. I made the choice to do a full ten coats of varnish on the back side of the coamings and five coats on the exposed side, on my workbench. This allowed the varnish to flow with no danger of drips. Then install the coamings back on the boat, install the plugs, and put five more coats on. The result is a lovely and durable finish. Yes, the plugs will only have five coats of varnish, but then there's the annual maintenance coat to do the rest. This approach worked for me. If you have more confidence in your ability to varnish a fairly large board on a vertical surface without drips, then maybe do one or two coats on a horizontal surface and the rest in-place. The real benefit of removing the teak is the ability to get to the back side of the board.

By the way, keep a small container of varnish on-board to touch up any scratches that happen from time to time. I'd like to credit whoever suggested that in an earlier thread, but I don't remember who it was.

Carl

[barfwinkle]

the foreward ends with the funky "blocks" that attach to the cabin??? Mine are pretty much checked and cracked. I am afraid they might split out entirely.

And on another note, what do you use to re-bed them. I know what NOT to use

And on a final note, I received your membership application today (Carl) and I'll get it processed prior to heading for teh Gulf on April 20th.

Fair Winds and thanks for the leg work (expertise)!

[Tim Mertinooke]

Someone in an earlier thread (I think) mentioned a nail polish bottle that was emptied, rinsed, dried, and then filled with varnish. You can touch up areas that get chipped, dented, scratched, etc. easily with the tiny brush that screws into the bottle. Last year it worked like a charm for me. Nothing beats the look of a good varnish job. Good luck. Tim

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[RMeigel]

I use dolphinite bedding compound to rebed combing boards.