I'm interested in discussion on the following topics:
1. I just removed the rusted mass of a 6 gal. Raritan water heater with heat exchanger. I'm considering an Atlantic stainless model as a replacement. Any feed back?
2. She needs a new dodger. The frame and snap pins are in place and are in good shape. This appears to be standard equipment. Does anyone have the measurements/specs so that I can order a new dodger?
3. Any information on a good bimini. It should zipper into the dodger.
4. The foresail is a 150 roller and in need of repair now and replacement shortly after. She came with a great cruising spinnaker and snuffer shoot so I think a new 130 roller would be in order plus and storm jib. Input from near shore and off shore cruisers would be apppriciated.
5. The Cruising Designs roller/furler has 5 sections which need new torque links. My surveyor recommended another manufacturer but the system looks like it could work. Any advice here?
6. The head liner needs painted because of spots! They tell me these arn't water spots. Any feed back?
Enough for now; thanks.
Ragtime
jimalex@earthlink.net
Cape Dory 33 refit
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: Cape Dory 33 refit
Use the search engine for "Atlantic". There was a pretty good discussion on this very subject.Jim Alexander wrote: I'm interested in discussion on the following topics:
1. I just removed the rusted mass of a 6 gal. Raritan water heater with heat exchanger. I'm considering an Atlantic stainless model as a replacement. Any feed back?
Is there an identification patch somewhere of the canvas shop that put on the original Dodger? Chances are they would still have the demensions.Jim Alexander wrote: 2. She needs a new dodger. The frame and snap pins are in place and are in good shape. This appears to be standard equipment. Does anyone have the measurements/specs so that I can order a new dodger?
If you are lucky enough to use the previouse canvas shop for the Dodger....perhaps they could do the bimini as well.Jim Alexander wrote: 3. Any information on a good bimini. It should zipper into the dodger.
Might think about a removable inner forestay for the storm jib. I know several people (some 33's) who have done just that. Would need to consult with the sailmaker.Jim Alexander wrote: 4. The foresail is a 150 roller and in need of repair now and replacement shortly after. She came with a great cruising spinnaker and snuffer shoot so I think a new 130 roller would be in order plus and storm jib. Input from near shore and off shore cruisers would be apppriciated.
If you trust the surveyor did a good job evaluating the condition of your new boat and the state of the equipment....might take his advise. Would'nt want trouble with that thing out in the middle of the Ocean.Jim Alexander wrote: 5. The Cruising Designs roller/furler has 5 sections which need new torque links. My surveyor recommended another manufacturer but the system looks like it could work. Any advice here?
I ordered some gel coat from a manufacturer out on the West Coast that matched the interior color of my CD30 (search "gel coat") and sprayed over some patches on my headliner with one of those niffty little spray units from West Marine. Worked great....can't even tell! Clean the surface first. Make sure you drop some plastic or newspaper over everthing. Once that gel coat is airborne...it's hard to see untill it settles on you nice cabin sole.Jim Alexander wrote: 6. The head liner needs painted because of spots! They tell me these arn't water spots. Any feed back?
You do know what B.O.A.T stands for........?
B.ring O.ut A.nother T.housand....
(funnest money you'll ever spend tho)
Enjoy!
Jim Alexander wrote: Enough for now; thanks.
Ragtime
patturner@earthlink.net
Re: Water Heater...
Jim,
I have just installed an Atlantic T6E water heater in Hanalei. It is all stainless, has an engine heat exchanger, and works perfectly. If we motor out of the harbour, sail awhile, and motor back in, viola!, hot water! The temperature of the water is right around 170 degrees, so one needs to be a little careful when doing the dishes! It was easy to install, fit nicely through the port lazzerette, and is all together a good, neat installation. I had looked at all manufacturers. The Seaward heater was promissing (cheaper), but just a little to big to fit through the hatch. All others were also to big. Make sure that you save the surge tank when you remove the old heater. You must have that if the heater is higher than the top of the engine, and they are NOT cheap. The surge tank I used was from SenDur in Fort Lauderdale, FL and cost almost as much as the heater.
I think you will be happy with the Atlantic heater....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei, CD-30
I have just installed an Atlantic T6E water heater in Hanalei. It is all stainless, has an engine heat exchanger, and works perfectly. If we motor out of the harbour, sail awhile, and motor back in, viola!, hot water! The temperature of the water is right around 170 degrees, so one needs to be a little careful when doing the dishes! It was easy to install, fit nicely through the port lazzerette, and is all together a good, neat installation. I had looked at all manufacturers. The Seaward heater was promissing (cheaper), but just a little to big to fit through the hatch. All others were also to big. Make sure that you save the surge tank when you remove the old heater. You must have that if the heater is higher than the top of the engine, and they are NOT cheap. The surge tank I used was from SenDur in Fort Lauderdale, FL and cost almost as much as the heater.
I think you will be happy with the Atlantic heater....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei, CD-30
Re: P.S. Old Raritan heater......
One other thing...the old Raritan heaters used fiberglass insulation, that was compressible, you could squeeze in the side to get it through the hatch or actually remove the outer cover to be able to get it through. The new Raritans though use a rigid foam insulation that is foamed in place at the factory. If you take the outer cover off, you will never get it back on. So you no longer have the option of getting a slightly large heater in a small space. Got that direct from the Raritan factory...FWIWD. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Jim,
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei, CD-30
Re: P.S. Old Raritan heater......
Thanks for your information. I think the Atlantic is for me. You're right about the compression on the old heater. That's interesting about the new ones; no compression.D. Stump, Hanalei wrote:One other thing...the old Raritan heaters used fiberglass insulation, that was compressible, you could squeeze in the side to get it through the hatch or actually remove the outer cover to be able to get it through. The new Raritans though use a rigid foam insulation that is foamed in place at the factory. If you take the outer cover off, you will never get it back on. So you no longer have the option of getting a slightly large heater in a small space. Got that direct from the Raritan factory...FWIWD. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Jim,
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei, CD-30
Re: Cape Dory 33 refit
I replaced our old Raritan on our 36 with an Atlantic stainless steel 3 gal. It only fit through the port locker opening after I sawed about 1/4" off the fiberglass opening itself. The heater works well and we are very pleased with it. As I had installed Rolls batteries in a special frame on that side, those big devils had to come out in order to remove the Raritan (in pieces) and then be lifted back in after installing the Atlantic. It was the hardest part of the job, but really like those batteries.Jim Alexander wrote: I'm interested in discussion on the following topics:
1. I just removed the rusted mass of a 6 gal. Raritan water heater with heat exchanger. I'm considering an Atlantic stainless model as a replacement. Any feed back?
2. She needs a new dodger. The frame and snap pins are in place and are in good shape. This appears to be standard equipment. Does anyone have the measurements/specs so that I can order a new dodger?
3. Any information on a good bimini. It should zipper into the dodger.
4. The foresail is a 150 roller and in need of repair now and replacement shortly after. She came with a great cruising spinnaker and snuffer shoot so I think a new 130 roller would be in order plus and storm jib. Input from near shore and off shore cruisers would be apppriciated.
5. The Cruising Designs roller/furler has 5 sections which need new torque links. My surveyor recommended another manufacturer but the system looks like it could work. Any advice here?
6. The head liner needs painted because of spots! They tell me these arn't water spots. Any feed back?
Enough for now; thanks.
Ragtime
I have a 130 roller on Profurl hardware and am equally pleased with both in our Gulf and Intracoastal sailing in the central Gulf coast.
I repainted the headliner after my wife compained that she could no longer get it as white as she wanted. I used a paint supposedly formulated to retard the formation of mildew. I don't know why, we scrub the boat down regularly with a bit of bleach and have never had mildew. The paint was impossible to apply, with roller or brush. I couldn't get it smooth. So abandoned it and applied a good quality latex and it went on easily and looks great.
There is nothing standard about our dodger and bimini. The one on her now is the second frame I have had made. The first one was never satisfactory and so I inquired locally until the same name was recommended repeatedly and had that person make the new frame and do the canvas work.
gammy@eatel.net