How do people terminate their roller furler control lines?

[Stan W.]

I installed roller furling last year and routed the control line aft using a typical assortment of stanchion mounted blocks along the port side. I spent last year cleating the control line to the port quarter cleat waiting for inspiration to strike but no elegant solutions have come to mind. Any suggestions?

[rtbates]

Seraph's furling line terminates at a cleat mounted on the backside of the starboard cockpit coaming.

[Mark Yashinsky]

a (racheting) block w/ a cam cleat mounted just above the base of the pulpit? Mount it and another cleat (for the bitter end) at the beginning of the pulpit tubing.
Ready to play w/ the furler, unhook the bitter end from the cleat, then you can use the rachet and/or the cam cleat to control the furling line, when done, clean up the excess line and hook it back on the cleat. Just have to watch if you have a boarding gate in the lifelines, as the furling line can be a trip hazard.

[Duncan Maio]

Stan:

Remedy's roller furling line also terminates at a cleat on the outboard side of the coaming.

[Joe Myerson]

Stan,

I've also got my furling line running aft along the port side of the boat, using blocks on the stanchions.

The line terminates on a small cleat screwed at an angle to the outside of the port cockpit coaming. I then hank the excess line on the lifeline closest to the cleat.

It's simple, but hanking the line can be a problem when singlehanding in heavy weather.

--Joe

[John Martin]

Hi Stan,

On CARINA, we use a 1" stanchion cleat on the port side, mounted vertically, on a stanchion near the cockpit. The roller blocks going up to the bow are mounted just under the middle life-line, mid-way up the stanchion. Since every thing is on the stanchion, and off the deck, there is no trip hazard or foot clutter.

John

[John D.]

On my CD27, I have small Harken blocks on each starboard stanchion from the bow pulpit to the stern. They're made for attaching furler lines to stanchions. I have them close to the deck to reduce leverage on the stanchions. At the stern pulpit, I have a Harken swiveling ratchet block with a cam-cleat mounted on the block. The cam cleat allows one-handed furling, without looking at the cam cleat. Sometimes, however, if I'm using the ratchet to release the furler slowly, it drops accidentally into the cam cleat. A separate cam cleat as mentioned above would avoid that problem. I also have a double sheet bag mounted on the rear of the cockpit footwell for the tail of the furler line and the mainsheet.

[Warren Kaplan]

I have the line coming aft to a harken hexarachet block with a cam cleat. The picture shows the block before I put the furling line through it. I actually moved it to a different stanchion so it wouldn't interfere with the cleat you see there.

<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13/Se ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13/Se ... 3.jpg"></a>

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[Mike Raehl]

the furling line runs through fairleads on the bases of the port side stanchions. It terminates through a cam cleat, with retaining "cage", mounted on the outboard leg of the winch stand. I have two holes drilled, one above the other, through the winch stand leg where the cam cleat is bolted. Very handy to reach. I do need a neater arrangement to stow the lazy end coil and will start with the suggestions above.

[John Danicic]

To all.

On Mariah, I have both a Yankee and staysail furler so I solved the line organizational problem by installing a triple Lewmar D2 rope clutch

<a href="http://www.johndanicic.com/sailing%20pa ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://www.johndanicic.com/sailing%20pa ... b.jpg"></a>

This arrangement works well. The sails can be deployed and furled from in-front of the wheel and are easy to adjust from behind the wheel. I did have a jam cleat arrangement like Warren's for the staysail out-haul. It was difficult to release and it failed completely on a particularly exciting beat. It was undersized for a CD36.
Left to right. (Blue) staysail out haul. Staysail furler, Yankee furler. I asked an engineer what he thought of the load on the stanchion from the turning blocks. He felt that as long as the load was low on the tube, the sails will go before the stanchion. We will see.......

Sail on

John Danicic
CD 36 Mariah #124
Lake Superior

The size of the above image has been restricted by the webmaster.

Please see "<a href="http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... 38">Sticky: Include a photo or graphic in a message posting....how to...</a>" in the "<a href="http://www.capedory.org/board/viewforum.php?f=2">About this Board</a>" forum for details.

Also, the size of the images on this board is limited to 540 pixels wide. Unfortunately the [Img] tag (which is a BBCode tag) should not be used where images are greater than 540 pixels wide and you'll have to use the HTML tags instead. And what's even more unfortunate, we haven't figured out how to make the board limit them automatically on its own.

Don't forget! You can edit your own posted messages. So if something isn't quite right, just go back to that message and click on the "Edit" button. It's located on the righthand side of the window of the message in the thread. Click on "Preview" when you're ready, then click on "Submit" to post the changes. If it's still not right, you can go back and Edit it again.

Hope this stuff helps.

Have fun with photos,
Cathy
CDSOA Webmaster

[Craig LeBlanc]

Left to right. (Blue) staysail out haul. Staysail furler, Yankee furler. I asked an engineer what he thought of the load on the stanchion from the turning blocks. He felt that as long as the load was low on the tube, the sails will go before the stanchion. We will see.......

Sail on

John Danicic
CD 36 Mariah #124
Lake Superior[/quote]

Hi John
The most astern turning block on the teak base, is this used for the jib/genoa sheets. also could this be used for spinnaker sheets. I really need to set up my cd30 with some turning blocks back there..I hate the way the angle is right from the genoa tracks forward of the winches.
On another note I've never used self tailing winches other than the blue rubber ones on my current winches. would upgrading the wiches and adding the turning blocks on those raised teak blocks and rachting block cam cleat for the furler make a world of difference when single handing? I bought a used spinnaker during the winter and have already added the gear needed exept for the stearn turning blocks.

[Neil Gordon]

Stan,

As you may remember, mine are lead through fairleads along the port side cabin top, then through a hole in the coaming. The line is secured to a cleat mounted on the coaming, inside and way forward on the port side. I like having the line in the cockpit (and as far away from the prop as possible) and in a position where I'm facing the furler. The disadvantage is that the line crosses the foredeck.

[John Danicic]

Craig:

Yes. I use those blocks to run the Yankee sheets up to the self tailing winch. The sheets seem to work smoother this way then going from the track rail block up to the winch. Those aft turning blocks have beefy bails on them so when we fly our gennaker, I clip on snatch blocks for the sheets. That works well but as you can imagine, the port side looks like it is brimming with lines. Color coded line is a must here.

For single handling, a world of difference it would indeed make to up grade to self-tailing winches. I single hand mine a lot and found that any thing you do to isolate and differentiate control lines and anything that allows you to operate those lines with only one hand, (while the other hand is steering or holding on), helps immensely.

As I said before, I found that the cam cleat block, (a Harken 362 ) was extremely hard to release under load and the cam eventually failed. You might want to go with a bigger one with a Hexaratchet like the Harken 091 or like Warren's which looks to be a Harken 186. Price wise, you are heading into rope clutch territory.

Sail on.

John Danicic
CD 36 - Mariah - #124
Lake Superior

[Ben Thomas]

I'm running a 120 headsail and when its time to furl it can be difficult to reef on that line to bring the headsail in.
I have mounted an 12st andersen winch on the port deck aft and outboard just forward of aft pulpit stanchion this is normally used for the gennaker tack line. I now use it for the furler makes the job so much easier. When using the gennaker I tie off furler to aft mooring cleat.

[Craig LeBlanc]

I have the line coming aft to a harken hexarachet block with a cam cleat. The picture shows the block before I put the furling line through it. I actually moved it to a different stanchion so it wouldn't interfere with the cleat you see there.

<a href="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13/Se ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y13/Se ... 3.jpg"></a>

Hi Warren,
Warren what is that called and where could I purchase it with regards to the block to stanchion attachment pieces.
thanks craig