Long term results with one-part Toplac and Brightsides?

[bhartley]

I need to make a decision on deck & topsides paint for my Typhoon if she's going to make it into the water in April.

Awlgrip seems like more money and stress than an $800 boat needs (although she deserves more...). I am interested in the durability of Toplac and Brightsides. I am concerned about grit on people's shoes scratching up the seats and cockpit sole and the like.


Also... I am interested in color choices closest to the CD gelcoat color.

Thanks in advance,

Bly

[Steve Laume]

I painted a couple of dinghys with bright sides. Both of them came out really nice. I think I sprayed them both so I had a bit of an advantage. Great gloss on Hatteras White I believe it was. Durability is another matter. On one of the dinks I have a bunch of chips missing from the harsh treatment at the dinghy docks. The problem is that most people have inflatables and absolutely no regard for someone who may have a nice hard dinghy. Well I knew that coming in so I wasn't too surprised when we got banged around. The chips could have even come from an outboard and there is no paint that could be expected to hold up to that. The other problem I had was a bit different. Without reading all the information I painted the entire dinghy on one of them, above and below the water line. Brightsides is not recommended below the water line. What I ended up with was a whole bunch of little blisters under the paint. These are small, up to say 1/4" but everywhere. I will take the paint off below the boot stripe and just go with bottom paint next season. My mistake and now I know why they don't recommend it. The one area I am really not happy with is on the deck of the CD-14 where I had left a boat cushion. It sat there for some time with moisture under it. When I picked up the cushion I had the same little blisters only smaller as formed under water. This is pretty disturbing and ever since then I have been careful not to leave anything that would trap moisture on the paint. The painted portions have not seen heavy wear so I can't say how well they would hold up under extended foot traffic. If I had it to do again I might go with the two part paint, Steve.

[CaptRaul]

I painted the cabin house and decks with brightside on our CD 28 about four years ago. The gloss retention and toughness has been excellent. I "rolled" the paint on, and the finished result was outstanding.
You MUST sand between coats and use the appropriate thinner to get a good job. Remember the paint needs a 30 day cure to be effective, although you can walk on it after 24 hours.
I also painted our dinghy and the results have been good..remember the 30 day rule before you subject it to any tough environment.

[Jim Davis]

I have painted an Alberg 30 and a Dyer dink with Brightside by roll and tip. It worked quite well and as long as you don't rush it is fairly easy. For the roller I suggest a four inch yellow foam (cut down West System). This way you don't spread more than you can tip.

Also see the March/April GOB, the Typhoon article. My wife did that boat with Brightside by roll and tip.

[Ron M.]

Check out "Perfection" by Interlux; 2 part polyurethane.It is much tougher than Toplac or Brightside . It's also very glossy (can be matted).Compared to working with Awlgrip it's like fingerpainting. I 've had superb results painting a dingy and the spars on my CD.
________
TOP PENNY STOCKS

[winthrop fisher]

Hi...
i painted my typhoon with petit easy poxy and painted the cockpit, deck and above the water line and up, seven years ago and it still looks good and all you do is polish it once a year. thats it.
the cost of all the paint was only round $150 if you are doing it your self.
it was easy to go on....
winthrop

I need to make a decision on deck & topsides paint for my Typhoon if she's going to make it into the water in April.

Awlgrip seems like more money and stress than an $800 boat needs (although she deserves more...). I am interested in the durability of Toplac and Brightsides. I am concerned about grit on people's shoes scratching up the seats and cockpit sole and the like.


Also... I am interested in color choices closest to the CD gelcoat color.

Thanks in advance,

Bly

[Stan W.]

I have heard good things about Interlux Interthane Plus. It is a two part paint specially formulated for DIY application using the roll and tip method. I can't tell how it differs from Interlux Perfection though. It's probably worth a call to Interlux to find out. Use Interlux Interdeck for the nonskid.

[Jim Davis]

The stuff is good but the grit mixed into the paint is black. Better to mix a white grit into a different paint, you don't want your deck to develop black spots. I'm repainting the coach roof as a result of the grit color.

[Ron M.]

I had good results using polymeric (sp?) beads for nonskid applications.The beads absorb the paint so color remains consistant as it wears.I found the Interlux nonskid not aggressive enough for my needs so I mixed about 1/3 coarse to 2/3 medium texture additive and achieved a happy medium that provides good slip resistance without being so coarse as to be uncomfortable on bare skin. The salt shaker application method worked best for me. Awlgrip texture additive, available in fine , medium , coarse. About $35. to do all the nonskid on my boat.
________
MEDICAL CANNABIS

[Troy Scott]

Steve Laume,

Did you use the Precoat tie-coat under the Brightsides which bubbled under the cushion?

[paul marko]

I have painted (roll and tip) the cabin and deck of my cd28 with a two part polyeurthane and bright sides. The two part lasted about 7 years and began strippimg off in sheets,it did not adheare to the two part primer that was recomened . I have about 3 years on the Brightsides and it looks good. I added about 10% penitrol to the Brightsides,which gave a really smooth finish. I used a small 3" roller with a very fine nappe ,about 1/16 long, this plus an occational tipping, where needed with a badger brush gives a real nice finish.
I would suggest about 2-3 coats with and interval of at leat 2 months between coats sanding, between coats, with very fine sandpaper made for polyeuthaine painting.

I have experienced the moisture blister problem with both types of paint, just don't leave moist ojectects without good circulation on the painted surface. The part of my bootstrip that's in contact with the water when I am loaded heavey has developed a lot of fine bilsters. What I am going to do about this I have not figurred out.

Good luck on you paint job

Paul Marko

[Troy Scott]

Paul Marko,

I'm very sorry to hear about this problem you've had. It's scary to think this could also happen to me!

[Oswego John]

Hi Paul M.

For years, I've been painting boot stripes with Ace Hardware acrylic gloss enamel or Rustoleum. I can't remember ever having bubbles.

Good luck,
O J

[paul marko]

Thank you OJ for the sugestions on boot stripe paint. I think I will try the Rustolium this year and see if the blisters persist.

Thanks again Paul marko

[Ron M.]

My CD25 had a dark green boot stripe when I got her and I liked the color,(also partial to BRG- MG's) I couldn't find a boot stripe paint that came close to it so I tried Rustoleum which had a close match. I had that boat 4 yrs. and the boot stripe looked great when I sold her.......never bubbled .
________
Chrysler Airstream Specifications