A Nice CD-25 Outboard Solution!

[John Ring.]

Hi All!

I've just completed an outboard transplant on Sovereign, my 1978 CD-25, and I thought I'd share my happy experience. I went with an 8hp Johnson 2 cycle with a 15" shaft. The reason was largely the weight advantage; it's just 56lbs, and can be easily stored in a cockpit locker after each use. This keeps the motor clean, out of sight, and free of internal clogging. With a sail prop it has plenty of thrust.

There is a reason for the 15" shaft. I know it sounds too short, but it's perfect when you replace the mounting bracket with a pressure treated 2x4. The top two bolts won't be used any more. Remove the old board, and just hold the lower edge and trace the holes and edge shape. This allows the motor to sit plenty deep in the well, and the hatch can be closed without any modifications.

There is one last feature I like on the OMC motor; the shifter is on the FRONT. With the plywood panel removed, you can unbolt the motor's tiller when you place it in, and guide it out that opening as you place the motor in. Just put the bolt back in when you've got it clamped. Now the throttle and the shifter are right there in that opening. With this set up I can sit on the closed hatch, and just reach down between my knees (not THAT tiller!:) to work the throttle and shifter without taking my eyes off the water. With the panel out, there is plenty of air flow, and the motor doesn't asphyxiate itself. I've got the two cowls pointing opposit directions too; this may be helping.

Carpe Diem,
John Ring
s/v Sovereign
CD-25




Ringj@mediaone.net

[John Ring]

Hi All!

I've just completed an outboard transplant on Sovereign, my 1978 CD-25, and I thought I'd share my happy experience. I went with an 8hp Johnson 2 cycle with a 15" shaft. The reason was largely the weight advantage; it's just 56lbs, and can be easily stored in a cockpit locker after each use. This keeps the motor clean, out of sight, and free of internal clogging. With a sail prop it has plenty of thrust.

There is a reason for the 15" shaft. I know it sounds too short, but it's perfect when you replace the mounting bracket with a pressure treated 2x4. The top two bolts won't be used any more. Remove the old board, and just hold the lower edge and trace the holes and edge shape. This allows the motor to sit plenty deep in the well, and the hatch can be closed without any modifications.

There is one last feature I like on the OMC motor; the shifter is on the FRONT. With the plywood panel removed, you can unbolt the motor's tiller when you place it in, and guide it out that opening as you place the motor in. Just put the bolt back in when you've got it clamped. Now the throttle and the shifter are right there in that opening. With this set up I can sit on the closed hatch, and just reach down between my knees (not THAT tiller!:) to work the throttle and shifter without taking my eyes off the water. With the panel out, there is plenty of air flow, and the motor doesn't asphyxiate itself. I've got the two cowls pointing opposit directions too; this may be helping.

Carpe Diem,
John Ring
s/v Sovereign
CD-25

There are a few more thoughts I should pass on regarding this engine option. This motor will not charge your battery; it has no electrical system. The choke, shifter, and tiller are mounted on the front of this motor providing easy access through the opening. However, unless you unbolt and guide the tiller as described, the hatch will NOT close. Also, at moderate to high speed with little apparent wind, the motor will begin to asphyxiate. I recommend keeping the hatch open when docking or maneuvering in tight quarters.

Enjoy,
John Ring

[keith kelley]

while we are messing around, i'll share my last " trial and error" scheme. there was a 9.9 sailmaster in my cd25. it was nice for straight ahead travel (although the exhaust was enough to killthe rats that live on board); but, when it came to helping me slowly maneuver into a tight dock at the marina...well there was a lot of shifting and boat bumping going on. well, took it out (with the help of a good samaritan)and put in a little evinrude lightwin ( 1953 vintage). a little adjustment and now ihave a friend who helps me steer when easing into the berth and just a little blue smoke. i knw it will be pretty useless in a blow; but, maybe that's for sailing.: : Hi All!

I've just completed an outboard transplant on Sovereign, my 1978 CD-25, and I thought I'd share my happy experience. I went with an 8hp Johnson 2 cycle with a 15" shaft. The reason was largely the weight advantage; it's just 56lbs, and can be easily stored in a cockpit locker after each use. This keeps the motor clean, out of sight, and free of internal clogging. With a sail prop it has plenty of thrust.

There is a reason for the 15" shaft. I know it sounds too short, but it's perfect when you replace the mounting bracket with a pressure treated 2x4. The top two bolts won't be used any more. Remove the old board, and just hold the lower edge and trace the holes and edge shape. This allows the motor to sit plenty deep in the well, and the hatch can be closed without any modifications.

There is one last feature I like on the OMC motor; the shifter is on the FRONT. With the plywood panel removed, you can unbolt the motor's tiller when you place it in, and guide it out that opening as you place the motor in. Just put the bolt back in when you've got it clamped. Now the throttle and the shifter are right there in that opening. With this set up I can sit on the closed hatch, and just reach down between my knees (not THAT tiller!:) to work the throttle and shifter without taking my eyes off the water. With the panel out, there is plenty of air flow, and the motor doesn't asphyxiate itself. I've got the two cowls pointing opposit directions too; this may be helping.

Carpe Diem,
John Ring
s/v Sovereign
CD-25

There are a few more thoughts I should pass on regarding this engine option. This motor will not charge your battery; it has no electrical system. The choke, shifter, and tiller are mounted on the front of this motor providing easy access through the opening. However, unless you unbolt and guide the tiller as described, the hatch will NOT close. Also, at moderate to high speed with little apparent wind, the motor will begin to asphyxiate. I recommend keeping the hatch open when docking or maneuvering in tight quarters.

Enjoy,
John Ring

aurora@capital.net

[Ken Boyd]

I enjoyed your posting as I just went through the same infamous CD-25 engine selection process on my recently purchased 77 CD25 (Not knowing a lot about the CD25 I quickly found out why the boat came with a trolling motor when I bought it). I ended up with a Johnson 8 hp sailmaster 25". I had the same idea to store the outboard in a sail locker after each use but the 25" is a pain to get in and out of the engine compartment as well as the sail locker. I would have gone with the shorter shaft but got a great deal on a scratch and dent sailmaster. So after putting additional scratches and dents on the outboard (as sell as my boat!) trying to remove after each use, I am going to go with antifouling paint and leave the outboard in the water for up to six month periods, we will see how it goes.

Unlike you, I had problems with the Johnson exhaust smothering the engine and ended up installing a blower, attached directly to the underside of one of the exhaust ports in the engine compartment. I also installed a watertight deck plug on the motor's charger cables and in the wall of the engine compartment to ease removal of motor. Everything works great now. Thanks for the comments.



BoydKR@aol.com

[Bob Gephart]

I too have replaced my 9.9 Sailmaster with a 6HP Johnson long shaft due to weight considerations. My choice was based on a Practical Sailor article that said there is no significant difference between a 6 HP and an 8 HP. I have found that I cannot back against the tide here in Savannah ( 6 - 7 ft normal tide ) with this 6 HP. I could do OK previously with the 9.9, although it was always tricky. But no way with this 6 HP. I saw a mention of a "sail prop" in one of the previous replies. I cannot find anything other than the original prop from the OMC dealer here. Can you provide any info on the "sail Prop"????



bgephart@ecc.com