Quicky Furler Question

[Dick Barthel]

Probably close to category of a "stupid" question but here goes:

I think when you reef down, to enhance pointing ability you are supposed to resheet to the inboard track. Does this mean that you have to go forward and move the sheets or is there some way around this? If there is no choice but to go forward, this seems somewhat counterintuitive for the reason you get a furling jib in the first place. I guess do it before the wind kicks up is the answer?

Thanks for any responses.

Dick

[Anthony P. Jeske]

Hi Dick:
If your genoa overlaps the mast and shrouds, it'll still overlap once the main is reefed, so I don't see how it would be possible to re-reeve. If you're flying a 100% or a 110% jib, don't you use the inner track from the get-go?
I never rereeved the jib sheets on the CD-25D I used to own.
Regards,
Tony

[Dick Barthel]

Tony,

Sorry for the confusion...I should have said do you move the jib sheets in board when you partially furl the genoa? Assume the main remains fully deployed.

Sorry,

Dick

[iropicc]

one way to skin this cat is to double sheet the stbd and port sheets. run one sheet inside and the other outside then slack the one you choose not to use (i.e. for the stbd side, when the headsail is fully deployed trim with the sheet lead outside the shrouds and slack the other stbd sheet that leads inside the shrouds. conversely, when the headsail is reefed to a jib status then slack the outboard sheet and trim with the inboard sheet) in this way you can avoid going forward.

[Sal Randazzo]

"Double sheet the stbd and port sheets" - what neat idea!

[rtbates]

Yes you should move the sheet block FORWARD, NO you don't need to move it in board as you reef. That said I reef Seraph's 130 all the way to 80 and I have yet to move the sheet block forward. Yes the reefed genoa will now pull on the foot more than the leech, BUT I've been able to beat at 4.5-5.5 kts very close hauled, in 40kts with just the reefed genoa reefd to around 80%.

Only a racer would care and I'm certainly no racer. If I were I'd certainly not be sailing a full keel CD, I'd be back in my Hobie 33!

randy

[Rollergirl]

Been there, tried it, too many lines and attachments. Who's into handcuffs, anyway.

With the Ensign splashing this Spring after a two year rebuild, and me dealing with a new CDI furler/North G2 #2 genny, I've had a long time to puzzle this out. This is my untested conclusion: 3 jibsheets.

The third sheet hooks to the clew with the other two, and is led to a block just forward and to the left to the mast (it' an Ensign Class Association racing thing; ties into the jib halyard cabin top winch).

You only need 1 sheet to inhaul, and a second leads to unnecessary complexity. I tried to figure a way to a convenient 4-sheet hook-up, and kept coming up with snap hooks - an ugly way to approach a flogging sail - and figure a inhaul is the least complex way.

Your constructive criticism invited.

Bill

[Ed Haley]

If your jib is less than 100%, why don't you tension the lazy sheet to back the clew of the jib? It will bring the clew toward the centerline and also induce twist in the jib which might be what you want in stiff variable winds. You may have to reef the main as well to open the slot.

[Carter Brey]

Been there, tried it, too many lines and attachments. Who's into handcuffs, anyway.

With the Ensign splashing this Spring after a two year rebuild, and me dealing with a new CDI furler/North G2 #2 genny, I've had a long time to puzzle this out. This is my untested conclusion: 3 jibsheets.

The third sheet hooks to the clew with the other two, and is led to a block just forward and to the left to the mast (it' an Ensign Class Association racing thing; ties into the jib halyard cabin top winch).

You only need 1 sheet to inhaul, and a second leads to unnecessary complexity. I tried to figure a way to a convenient 4-sheet hook-up, and kept coming up with snap hooks - an ugly way to approach a flogging sail - and figure a inhaul is the least complex way.

Your constructive criticism invited.

Bill

Intriguing. Sort of an instant Barber hauler.

[Neil Gordon]

What about the chafe points, e.g., the shrouds?

[Rollergirl]

Because racing Ensigns use mainly genosa with large overlaps (it's not uncommon to carry the #1 to 18 knots with 4 on the rail) and the wide sheeting angles forced by old tech shroud placement (almost to the toerail) the geonas are sheeted up against the shrouds. Therefore, everybody covers the shrouds with those small diameter snap-on tubes made of poly-something-or-other. This reduces the chafe on both the sail and the sheet.

To amplify on my previous comment, it would be helpful for me to explain that Ensigns have both forward and aft lower shrouds. The jib in-hauler I described has a slightly increased aft tension component then the windward sheet. One of the reasons I would furl would be to keep the boat flatter in heavier winds, and I feel windward sheeting the jib would lead to excessive draft, more power and more healing.

Obviously, two sheets per side (led to the genoa car and the jib car) is a better method for sail shape. I'm just not in love with all the lines. Most of my Ensign sailing is pleasure oriented. I get my racing jollies on a Flying Scott (which has single swept back shrouds, uses windward sheet jib in-hauling and has a jib cut specifically for this action.)

Still open to a better method.

Bill

[mahalocd36]

....there's no inboard track to switch to. Only genoa track is on the rail. Problem solved

[Photo Chief]

I have been actively into sailing only since July 05 and I have absorb more from reading the conversations on this board than in my sailing class.

I had been wondering why my boat had an inboard and outboard set of sheet blocks and when you use each. This thread has cleared it up and given me much more to think about and try out. So while you posters are staying involved over the winter by writing posts you are also serving as unpaid educational consultants to upcoming newbies like me.

Sincere Thanks.