Synthetic Lubricants

[Joe CD MS 300]

Dean the place I went to, Blackstone Laboratories, charges $20 for the basic analysis. They send out a free mailer / sample bottle. Its a pretty simple process. Here is their website:

http://www.blackstone-labs.com

Joe

[Photo Chief]

Leo,

Amsoil use to recommend waiting until you had 6000 miles before changing to synthetic. This gives time for rings to seat. In a new boat engine you may need to extrapolate an appropriate break in time. Your engine manual may have a break in hour rating.

[Joe CD MS 300]

What type of oil should I use in my Westerbeke or Universal engine/generator?
Use a well-known brand and try to use the same brand each time you change the oil. Avoid mixing brands of oil. Different manufacturers use different additives, and mixing brands may cause a problem if additives are not compatible. More important is to use the correct A.P.I. (American Petroleum Institute) and S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers) ratings. For Westerbeke and Universal DIESEL models use A.P.I. code CF or CG-4, S.A.E. #30, 15W-40, 10W-30 or 5W-40. For Westerbeke GASOLINE models, use A.P.I. code SJ, S.A.E. #30, 15W-40, 10W-30 or 5W-40.


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Can I use synthetic oil in my engine?
Yes, synthetic oil is acceptable -be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period.

[Dean Abramson]

I have never spent only $20 on a boat. I may get my oil tested just for the thrill of it.

[Mike]

I've received a response from Mac Boring the Yanmar Distributor:

My Question..

From: Michael Thorpe [mailto:adagio43@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:45 PM
To: Deborah Martinelli
Subject: Lube oil for yanmar diesel engines

My new sailboat will have a Yanmar 4JH3 75HP freshwater Cooled diesel engine. Is there any advantage/do you recommend the use of synthetic lube oils in Yanmar Marine Diesel Engines?

Any information or opinions you have on this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Michael Thorpe
adagio43@earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.


Mac Borings response...

Synthetic Oils have not been API classified like the Yanmar approved oils…..you can use synthetic oil of you so choose after the warranty runs out…but we do not recommend it.

Deb Martinelli
Administrative Assistant
Mack Boring & Parts Company
Middleborough, MA 02346
Phone: (508) 946-9200
Fax: (508) 946-0779


My take on this, at least for new Yanmar diesel engines, is don't use Synthetic oil.

Hope this helps

[Ed Haley]

I bought my BetaMarine 1005 engine from Sound Diesel in CT. Joe DeMers is the owner. I sent an email to him regarding whether to use synthetic oil in the new engine. His response is below.

My question:
Joe:
Getting ready to install my Betamarine engine in my Cape Dory. I had a question.

Is it better to use a synthetic oil in the new Betamarine engines rather than regular oil? What about breaking in oil? I'm not trying to save money by having fewer changes. I would still change the oil twice a year - Mid summer and late fall. From what I hear, the synthetic oil is easier on the bearings and easier starting. Any opinions??


Joe's Answer:
For your use, I cannot recommend synthetic oil. We suggest Shell Rotella 15W40 lube oil, available at Wal Mart.

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Now let's hear from a synthetic oil specialist

Hi Ed, regarding the use of AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils in brand new or rebuilt engines, AMSOIL synthetic motor oil can be used during break-in trouble free. In fact, vehicles such as Dodge Viper and Chevrolet Corvette come factory filled with synthetic oil. However, since most new vehicles come filled with petroleum oil, it only makes good sense to change to AMSOIL at the first scheduled oil change interval. New engine components generate high levels of wear metals and can contain contaminants from assembly. By allowing the engine to operate with the petroleum oil until the first oil/filter change interval, the wear metals and contaminants are removed prior to installing AMSOIL. There are a couple primary reasons for this recommendation.

1. New engines or engine components generate high wear metals to begin with and generally contain debris from machining and assembly. It is more beneficial to allow these wear metals to collect in an inexpensive motor oil than to circulate throughout the crankcase for extended periods in a synthetic motor oil. By operating the vehicle to its first drain interval with a petroleum oil, these wear metals and manufacturing debris collect in the oil and are then flushed out of the crankcase when drained. This allows for a much cleaner operating environment for the synthetic lubricant.

2. Within the first miles of operation, if there are any defects in the assembly or workmanship of the engine components, then they may be corrected before installing the more expensive synthetic motor oil. Occasionally, rebuilt engines may have re-machined components or materials which can sometimes be mismatched. These problems will develop in a fairly short period of time. If excessive oil consumption or any other problem is noted, this should be corrected prior to changing to AMSOIL Synthetic Oil.

For racing applications, a synthetic motor oil can be installed right away. These engines are frequently disassembled and rebuilt under more exacting conditions and require the improved wear protection of a synthetic motor oil. Extended drains are rare due to contaminants such as fuel dilution and dirt entry are common, therefore we would recommend oil analysis to determine serviceability of the lubricant.

Best Regards,

Dave Mann
Lubrication Specialist - Truck/Automotive Engineer
Society of Automotive Engineers Professional Member
Performance Oil Technology, L.L.C.
www.performanceoiltechnology.com
1-888-879-1362

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Dave basically recommends using regular oil as a break-in lubricant and then, after break-in, to begin using synthetics. To me, this seems the most logical method of lubricating a new diesel engine.

[Leo MacDonald]

Hi All,

I also have been using the manufactures oil on new vehicles until the first oil / filter change, using synthetic oil from then on.

As for well used engines; Synthetic oil is VERY slippery and older seals with a minor leak will start to leak a good deal more. (Maybe that's why the British guy didn't like it - all British machinery leak oil ) A used car I switched to at 77K mikes had minor leaks before and after - no significant change.

Long ago, after purchasing a brand X pickup, I changed out to synthetic oil. Within a few months the rear main seal was leaking (read cheep brand X.) The dealer replaced under warranty, but explained that the manufacturer did not 'recognize' synthetic oil.

As a further thought; I sailed out of Whitby, ON, CN (Lake Ontario) for two seasons with ‘Heather Ann’. She had a Volvo MD7A without a pre-combustion chamber or glow plugs, and as such was a bear to start in the spring and fall. However, I remember that it did turn over well, even on those ‘frosty’ mornings

Rich,
I did not get a new engine, t'was Mike R. of 'Lavida'.
BTW: Amsoil is lowering their recommendation as to the number of miles between oil changes.

Fair Winds,
Leo

[Clay Stalker]

Well, lots of useful info to digest here. Looks like it depends on your engine manufacturer recommendations, amount of use, and age of engine. For me at this point, there looks like no real advantage to switching to synthetic oil. My engine currently has 460 hours on it, I rarely motor more than 50 hours per season and change the oil annually, and diesels should last at least 4000 hours if well maintained before needed a significant rebuild or replacement. However, I have been using 30W in my CD and Shannon, and am now considering switching to a 15W-40. Thanks everyone for the input, and see some of you Saturday.

Clay Stalker