Undoing a Stuck Screw...any advice

[polyphemus]

I'm looking for a little help from the collective wisdom on the board....any one have any suggestions for how to unstuck a stuck screw.

I'm in the process of dismantling my pedestal steering to install a new pedestal guard and subsequent Navpod for a new chartplotter. I believe four of the screws were placed around the time of the early Jurassic period....needless to say I can't get them unscrewed and the screw heads are a starting to strip a bit. Wiggle room is tight as I am reaching into the pedestal. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Sean
Former CD Typhoon s/v Epiphany
Now Mariner 28 s/v Epiphany
Edgewood, RI

[Paul D.]

Sean,

If you can fit a drill bit in there and drill into the screw head you can fit a reverse drill screw remover and get it out. I have also seen ads for un screw ems but have no experience with the product and they may be best in wood.

You could also try filing the head to fit a larger flathead screwdriver. Either way, lots of pb Blast or WD-40, CRC whatever is helpful to release screws.

I have an article coming out in the next Good Old Boat magazine which deals just with this situation, but it is in a different situation with a bolt on a motor housing. I had several failed attempt at getting this bolt out. In the end I drilled it out and re tapped, something I bet you don't want to do in the pedestal! Try not to strip them and good luck!

Paul

[Russell]

I agree with Paul, re- drilling them using a remover to get them out. On Lady Paulines overhaul I have delt with countless stuck screws. Mostly so on the mast where stainless screws were sitting there for 20 years in aluminium, the corrosion with the mixed metals made them downright impossible to remove. Drilling and extracting with specially designed extractors proved best. Carbid bits and 3 in 1 oil to drill, then craftsman extractors worked best for me. Some cases, like the old main halyard winch proved impossible for anything, as the winch was SS bolts in 3' of tapped aluminium. To remove that I had to drill the screws to the point the heads were off and I could remove the old winch, then old winch removed grind the old bolts down flush on the mounting base, then drill and tap new holes for the new winch (was changing over to self tailing for main halyard winch which is also shared by the spinnaker halyard so two rope clutches I added as well).

To sum it up, most of these Cape Dorys are old, and some screws or bolts may take creative measures to remove, but there is always a way.

[Boyd]

Hi Sean:

I am working from memory here... a dangerous poorly charted area full of shoals. Seems like 5 years ago when I confronted your exact situation. After working the stud extractor route and breaking two along with several drill bits, I ground the heads off of the screws that wouldnt give it up. The threads are in the lower flange not the upper (verify this first). I pulled the assemby off and grabbed the inch or so of remaining screw with vice grips. A lot of PB Blast and patience got all but one off. Needless to say I bought new screws and put them in with anti seize stuff.

See if what I said makes sense to your situation. I recall it being a long and ugly fight with no clear winner.

Boyd
s/v Tern
CD 30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

[Jerry Hammernik]

The best product I've ever used (and I've used pretty much all of them) is General Motors Heat Valve lubricant. It's available in the parts department at any GM dealer.

[Boyd]

Hi Jerry:

Do you use that stuff to unstick or prevent sticking?

Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

[LoneStar]

I concur with Jerry. The GM Heat Valve Lubricant is unbeatable. It may take some looking and persistence at the GM parts department; it is not usually for sale to the public, just available to GM mechanics, but they will sell it to you.

Great for freeing frozen fasteners and for lubricating new installations that you might want to one day liberate.


Mike

[Boyd]

Hi

Can someone post the GM part number for this stuff. It should be on the can. The dealers I have talked with dont have a clue and cant find it in the book.

Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

[LoneStar]

Boyd,

Here is the official skinny:

GM VehicleCare

Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor
Heat Valve Lubricant

Part Number: 1 #1052627

10.8 OZ spray can


Regards,

Mike

[Boyd]

THanks much.

I am off to see Mr. Goodwrench for a can of this stuff.

Boyd

[Jerry Hammernik]

Boyd,
Sorry, I missed the post for a day or two. Mike is correct, that is the part number. It's great for unsticking and it will lubricate things that move like the heat valve. The heat valve lives by the exhaust manifold, a tough place with road salt and high heat. It's not the right product for an anti-seize.

I'll pay more attention to a thread next time but Mike saved the day. Good Luck!