Wood Trim vs Sheet Metal Screws, Typhoon

[Dick Sisson]

My Ty is a 1970, pre oil embargo, built like a battleship, no discernible mast settlement, thick gelcoat.

I had unfastened and removed my wood to varnish it, am now cleaning up the "plastic" underneath/behind where the wood will go back, scraping off old sealant with single edged razor blades. The wood was typically fastened with 1 1/2" sheet metal screws.

There are radial spider cracks in the gel coat at almost every screw hole. I consider these cracks to be non-structural since the sheet metal screws obviously go way into the mat/core. Plus which, most of this won't show once the wood is refastened. I am more of a structural guy than an apperances guy, but I would just as soon not leave these cracks in there.

I'd like to "fix" the situation without resorting to the hassle of dealing with gelcoat patch material. That sounds like an excercise in masochism. I'm more of an epoxy man, I have handled that and somewhat understand it. It further occurs to me that attempting to pry/pop off the gel coat between the radial cracks may be the wrong way to go.

Much obliged in advance for any and all suggestions and comments.

(Someone previously suggested thru-bolting the coaming boards, this dosen't look practical, the screws are located where the cockpit side surface turns to become the deck, so they are blind holes.)



dickee03@rivnet.net

[Anthony P. Jeske]

Dick:
If you chamfer the holes, say with a countersink bit, you can reduce the amount of crazing. I realize this won't help the crazing that's already there, but it might prevent additional crazing and should prevent crazing after you effect a repair.
In my opinion, the West Systems fibreglas repair manual contains a nice chapter on gelcoat repair. You may want to get a copy before you embark on these repairs
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske



ajeske@ixpres.com