cockpit sole and nonskid repairs

[Steve]

Just thought I'd update everyone on my work to repair the cockpit sole of my CD and provide information to anyone else contemplating a similar job. As I mentioned in previous posts, I had some water intrusion into the cockpit sole. The sources of the problem were failed sealant around the deck fill and around the area where the rudder post emerges through the sole. The test holes that I drilled showed that the area that was actually rotted (as shown by black or dark brown balsa core) was fairly limited, but about 25% of the area of the sole had saturated or,in most areas, damp core.

For structural repairs, I confined all my work to the tan nonskid area. I used the system suggested by Gudgeon bros. (West system epoxy) and drilled 1/4 holes into the top skin of the panel. Each hole was beveled with a countersink. Using a circular saw, I also cut off a portion of the fiberglass skin (about 1.5 sq. ft) to remove rotted and saturated core. Unfortunately, the fiberglass in the skin was damaged when I pried it off, so I elected to replace it. The total area I cut out was probably overkill, but it ensured that all balsa that was compromised by rot was removed. I used a heat lamp over the area to help dry remaining areas of the (damp) core that were drilled. Due to extensive crazing in the cockpit sole, I removed the all of the gelcoat from the nonskid area with a belt sander. New 3/8 inch balsa core (purchased from Defender) was laid in with epoxy thickened with silica and the holes were filled. The replacement skin was laminated with 6 layers of 12 oz fiberglass fabric and West epoxy.

Cosmetic repairs. I faired in the topside with epoxy thickened with low density filler, followed by 2 layers of 6 oz fiberglass over the entire nonskid area to tie everything together and provide a smooth surface for gelcoat. I experimented with several methods for reproducing the nonskid texture. I found that the method that works best was to add a small amount of colloidal silica to thicken the gelcoat (obtained from GCPI; thanks Dana!), and then apply it by using a foam sponge (the cells in the sponge need to be very fine, similar those of a foam brush). When patting the gelcoat onto the panel with the sponge be careful not overwork the area or the peaks can become too sharp. With a little practice, the result is very close to the original nonskid texture. The last step was to spray PVA over the repair with a Preval spray canister to allow the gelcoat to cure. Because I replaced the all of the gelcoat over all of the tan nonskid area I did not have to worry about blending the repair into the surrounding area.

The total repair cost including epoxy, fiberglass, balsa, gelcoat, protective clothing, masks, sandpaper, etc. was about $400, but I am very happy with the results. West System Epoxy technical advisors were extremely responsive to my questions about making the repair and techniques for re-gelcoating over epoxy.

[Steve Files]

Hi,

Interested to hear of your repair.

My good friend Kevin and I just finsihed redoing the aft half of the cocpit sole on my CD27. Much of the process was similar to yours but we finished off the entire sole with teak on top of the reglassed sole. epoxied down and then groves filled with new style filler. Kevin, an ex boatyard expert, did a great job, It looks super. Cost about $800. for materials, much of the expense was, of course, the teak.
What size is your CD?

Enjoy the summer.

Steve Files



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