Muriatic Acid????

[barfwinkle]

Hello Mike

I sail on a muddy inland lake and river and I have tried everything you can inagine and then a friend of mine in Boston said try this stuff.

You apply it with a clean paint brush and before you finish applying it to a 12"x12" area, your first strokes are spotless. I could not believe it!!! It comes in a bottle of about 8 fl oz and cost under $10. I got my last bottle from defender, but they just told me they have to special order it now but they can get it. Call them and ask for Michele at ext 121 (I think). And no I have no ties to defender.

You could also follow this link http://www.shipstore.com/ss/html/PRM/PRMY10.html or do a search for Y-10 Cleaner.

I am telling you it works and is effortless. paint it on, and wash it off with a brush and soapy water. Dats et mon!

BTW, that one little bottle will do my entire topsides on my 25D.

Fair Winds

[M. R. Bober]

1) Muriatic acid is strong stuff. Protect your eyes & skin.
2) Oxalic acid can soften gelcoat, and it will do things to the Nicro-Fico vents that have to seen to be believed (Believe me). Zud--contains oxalic acid-- can be a monster (Believe me). Protect your eyes & skin.

There is a greenish jelly, FSR (fiberglass stain remover), which does a good job without using a lot of muscle. It contains oxalic acid. Again, protect your eyes & skin!

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Annapolis (where waterline scum is "fighten' words"), MD

[winthrop fisher]

hi...you need Hull cleaner, thats all...winthrop

[Steve Darwin]

Good information and recommendations.

I'm glad Barfwinkle mentioned the Y-10 stain remover. I found a jar of it among the cleaning supplies inherited from the previous owner and gave it a try. It was like I waved a wand and the stain was gone! Ok on the awlgrip paint and boot-top too. I've also used it successfully on topside enamel paint.

[Mike Johnson]

so I scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed some more and there is still a stain after using various products but not hydrochloric acid in any form. Must say I was a bit disappointed in the results of so called Hull cleaners and various "green" products safe for the environment. This weekend I will try one of the spray on Muriatic acid products and see if the remaining stains will come off. I was wondering what to use on the sticky gum residue on the hull from lettering removal of the name on the transom? None of the hull cleaners worked. Also, can I do the bottom paint now or should I wait to till the spring before launching?

[David van den Burgh]

so I scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed some more and there is still a stain after using various products

There's another product out there called "Zing". I'm not sure of its chemical composition, but it made short work of some nasty stains on Ariel.

[Mike Johnson]

I just ordered some Y-10. Will give that a try this weekend when it arrives.

[Jim Davis]

I've had good luck with "Porto-Sol", it is an industrial strength toilet cleaner that will even remove scale from the inside of head hoses. I get it at a small local hardware store. Careful it is strong. I normally use it full strength with one of the sponge mops used for cleaning the floor. Used it this spring after running the ICW and found it easy, fast and could be applied from an inflatable (I was careful to keep it off of the inflatable).

Jim Davis
S/V Isa Lei
CT35

[Mike Johnson]

I spent another day working on the hull and I'm not having much luck. I admit that MOST of the stain is gone having washed and scrubbed the hull three times now with a vaiety of items, last of which was Y-10. I used most of the container and I still have some residual stain along the water line. I think I will try the Muriatic acid next weekend and will let you know what the scoop is.

[MikeRPSU]

Cathy is right on. "On and Off" is formulated just for removing the rusty discoloration at the water line. You will be amazed how it (the brown junk) just disappears when you paint it on. Once it's done its stuff, rinse thoroughly.

Sure beats scrubbing.

Mike