I am about to take possession of a CD 22. I do have a few questions that the owner can not answer for me. Some of these may seem very basic, but my sailing experience is almost totally in dinghies and hobies.
1. When out for a test sail, using the Jib (believe it or not it is the original Jib that came with the boat in 81) the jib sheets where run outside the lifelines to the fairlead. Is this the correct way to run the jib sheets? My limited experience on friends boats of similar size (Martin 24.5, C&C 24, etc) when using a Jib the sheets have been inside the lifelines. Only using larger headsails like a genoa did the sheets go outside the lifelines.
2. When on a close haul/reach, beam reach (for example on port tack) when trying to head down, when I pushed the tiller over, it seemed like I had to push it way over before getting any reaction from the boat? Is this normal? While on a reach, I didn't get that when trying to head up, only when try to head down. Does this indicate any rudder problems tha I should be worried about. The owner claims that the helm always answered this way.
3. The head sails are all hank on. I would eventually like to go to a furling system, since I intend to do a lot of single hand sailing. Any recommendations on make/model?
4. This is a very open ended question. This boat is being sold be the original owners. While they have maintained it very well (for example she still has the original cushions and covers and they are in good shape), they have not done anything to upgrade over the years except a new outboard motor bracket. Does any one have any suggestions that they have done that doesn't cost a fortune?
CD 22 Questions from a newbie
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Mike Johnson
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Oct 25th, '05, 13:35
roller furler
I have a harken roller furler on my CD-25 and it has performed wonderfully and i would highly recommend it.
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Neil Gordon
- Posts: 4367
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 17:25
- Location: s/v LIQUIDITY, CD28. We sail from Marina Bay on Boston Harbor. Try us on channel 9.
- Contact:
Re: Furler
I'll second the opinion on the CDI furler. Mine has been flawless and required zero maint.dave wrote:CDI makes a good inexpensive furler that works great for smaller boats as well.
Fair winds, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA
CDSOA member #698
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA
CDSOA member #698
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Cap'n Mike
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Sep 14th, '05, 20:57
- Location: s/v ADORYBLE - CD22, Hull #79 - Houston, TX
Jib Fairleads and heading down
There is a marketing picture of the CD-22 which shows the 100 jib sheets running inside the life lines. I bought my CD-22 with a roller furling (make unknown, sorry) 135 genoa, so I do not use the stock fairleads mounted on the side decks. The image is at http://members.aol.com/darenius/CD22/cd22-1.jpg
Also, my CD-22 likes to sail balanced with a double-reefed main and a 135 genoa.
It might take more power to head down because you are flying so much main sail. The center effort is aft, so the rudder has to work harder to head down. Heading up is easy on the rudder because the main is helping.
The trick is to locate the sail arrangement that balances the boat.
If you only have the original jib, try sailing with a reefed main.
In terms of upgrades, I would say get a dodger, at least. My wife and I were sailing the other day in 4 foot seas. Spray was coming over the companionway. It would be miserable without a dodger. I also like my stern pulpit, the lazy jacks, and double jiffy reefing.
Unfortunately, welcome to boating, not much doesn't "cost a fortune."
Also, my CD-22 likes to sail balanced with a double-reefed main and a 135 genoa.
It might take more power to head down because you are flying so much main sail. The center effort is aft, so the rudder has to work harder to head down. Heading up is easy on the rudder because the main is helping.
The trick is to locate the sail arrangement that balances the boat.
If you only have the original jib, try sailing with a reefed main.
In terms of upgrades, I would say get a dodger, at least. My wife and I were sailing the other day in 4 foot seas. Spray was coming over the companionway. It would be miserable without a dodger. I also like my stern pulpit, the lazy jacks, and double jiffy reefing.
Unfortunately, welcome to boating, not much doesn't "cost a fortune."
<b>Fair Winds,
Cap'n Mike</b>
<i><a href="http://adoryble.blogspot.com/">s/v ADORYBLE</a></i>
<img src="http://www.geocities.com/j_m_kovacs/ado ... jpg"></img>
Cap'n Mike</b>
<i><a href="http://adoryble.blogspot.com/">s/v ADORYBLE</a></i>
<img src="http://www.geocities.com/j_m_kovacs/ado ... jpg"></img>
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Andy Denmark
- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
Sails first
Hi Ed,
Welcome to the world of Cape Dories!
If your boat has original sails then I would suggest, as a former sailmaker, that new sails should be at the top of your list. Yours are almost certainly past their useful life (unless you need some Dacron drop cloths for house painting projects). Even if they aren't blown out then the material is certainly well past its designed life. Advances in sailcloth alone will make new sails a good investment and vastly improve the performance of your boat.
From what you describe, my opinion is that you have a sail and/or tuning problem and that your rudder is fine. Once you get those straightened out (a good local sailmaker should be able to help here) the boat will come alive, have virtually no helm problems, and be a joy to sail.
As if new sails aren't expensive enough by themselves, this is the time for a new furler and I highly recommend Harken. Their engineering is far superior to anything else out there, IMHO. As with most other sail-related things, there is a price to pay for this but JSI, Oyster Bay, and others offer good winter specials on Harken furlers. Personally, I prefer hank-on sails but that's another issue.
Inboard sheeting will vastly improve your boat's windward performance but please engineer it with adjustable tracks and cars instead of simple eyes so you can keep the sail shapes optimized. This will help eliminate the helm problem you described and give a lot of variability of your headsail shape off the wind.
All this is aimed at helping you enjoy what I think is the best quality of your Cape Dory which is her sailing characteristics. Mr. Alberg designed great boats but he expected a certain level of knowledge from their owners to get them to perform as he intended. Hopefully, you'll appreciate this board as a resource for much of that.
Again, welcome aboard!
________
Suzuki escudo
Welcome to the world of Cape Dories!
If your boat has original sails then I would suggest, as a former sailmaker, that new sails should be at the top of your list. Yours are almost certainly past their useful life (unless you need some Dacron drop cloths for house painting projects). Even if they aren't blown out then the material is certainly well past its designed life. Advances in sailcloth alone will make new sails a good investment and vastly improve the performance of your boat.
From what you describe, my opinion is that you have a sail and/or tuning problem and that your rudder is fine. Once you get those straightened out (a good local sailmaker should be able to help here) the boat will come alive, have virtually no helm problems, and be a joy to sail.
As if new sails aren't expensive enough by themselves, this is the time for a new furler and I highly recommend Harken. Their engineering is far superior to anything else out there, IMHO. As with most other sail-related things, there is a price to pay for this but JSI, Oyster Bay, and others offer good winter specials on Harken furlers. Personally, I prefer hank-on sails but that's another issue.
Inboard sheeting will vastly improve your boat's windward performance but please engineer it with adjustable tracks and cars instead of simple eyes so you can keep the sail shapes optimized. This will help eliminate the helm problem you described and give a lot of variability of your headsail shape off the wind.
All this is aimed at helping you enjoy what I think is the best quality of your Cape Dory which is her sailing characteristics. Mr. Alberg designed great boats but he expected a certain level of knowledge from their owners to get them to perform as he intended. Hopefully, you'll appreciate this board as a resource for much of that.
Again, welcome aboard!
________
Suzuki escudo
Last edited by Andy Denmark on Feb 13th, '11, 03:20, edited 1 time in total.
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winthrop fisher
- Posts: 837
- Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 17:52
- Location: Typhoon Wk 75 "Easy Rider" &
cd 22 "Easy Rider Sr" 84
Re: CD 22 Questions from a newbie
Hi Efrost...
1. you answered your question, yes, thats the way it will be on all boats.
2. sounds like cap dory, but you need to look at the boat out of the water before buying.
3. all boats come that way, most people use CDI roller furling with 100, 135, 150,180 sizes. i use 135 on both boats.
4. just sail it that way, changing to the CDI will make a big differents in the way the boat handles.
enjoy your new boat.
winthrop
1. you answered your question, yes, thats the way it will be on all boats.
2. sounds like cap dory, but you need to look at the boat out of the water before buying.
3. all boats come that way, most people use CDI roller furling with 100, 135, 150,180 sizes. i use 135 on both boats.
4. just sail it that way, changing to the CDI will make a big differents in the way the boat handles.
enjoy your new boat.
winthrop
Efrost wrote:I am about to take possession of a CD 22. I do have a few questions that the owner can not answer for me. Some of these may seem very basic, but my sailing experience is almost totally in dinghies and hobies.
1. When out for a test sail, using the Jib (believe it or not it is the original Jib that came with the boat in 81) the jib sheets where run outside the lifelines to the fairlead. Is this the correct way to run the jib sheets? My limited experience on friends boats of similar size (Martin 24.5, C&C 24, etc) when using a Jib the sheets have been inside the lifelines. Only using larger headsails like a genoa did the sheets go outside the lifelines.
2. When on a close haul/reach, beam reach (for example on port tack) when trying to head down, when I pushed the tiller over, it seemed like I had to push it way over before getting any reaction from the boat? Is this normal? While on a reach, I didn't get that when trying to head up, only when try to head down. Does this indicate any rudder problems tha I should be worried about. The owner claims that the helm always answered this way.
3. The head sails are all hank on. I would eventually like to go to a furling system, since I intend to do a lot of single hand sailing. Any recommendations on make/model?
4. This is a very open ended question. This boat is being sold be the original owners. While they have maintained it very well (for example she still has the original cushions and covers and they are in good shape), they have not done anything to upgrade over the years except a new outboard motor bracket. Does any one have any suggestions that they have done that doesn't cost a fortune?
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Anthony P. Jeske
- Posts: 146
- Joined: Feb 11th, '05, 10:33
- Location: C&C 27 MkV
FLYING CIRCUS
Upgrades
Ed:
If you're planning to do a lot of single handed sailing, you my want to eventually wind up with your control lines leading back to the cockpit, so any rigging upgrades you do now should take that into consideration.
Does the boat have jiffy reefing? If not, I'd put that high on my list, followed closely by a boom vang.
Here are a couple of canvas projects you can consider:
http://www.jibeho.org/breezy.htm
Enjoy your great new boat!
Tony
If you're planning to do a lot of single handed sailing, you my want to eventually wind up with your control lines leading back to the cockpit, so any rigging upgrades you do now should take that into consideration.
Does the boat have jiffy reefing? If not, I'd put that high on my list, followed closely by a boom vang.
Here are a couple of canvas projects you can consider:
http://www.jibeho.org/breezy.htm
Enjoy your great new boat!
Tony