Adding more/larger batteries to CD36

[Bill Cochrane]

What have other CD36 owners done to increase the battery bank size? I have the batteries on a shelf in the port lazarette with the water heater; it puts them up under the side deck in a position that makes checking water difficult, and installation/removal/securing is also a pain.

I have my eye on the locker under the forward-facing seat on the end of the port settee, which should work fine if I increase the lid opening and can figure out how to fish the cables under the galley stove space (easy) and under the icebox (????). Anyone done this, or found other ways/places to mount batteries? I'd like to end up with a pair of 8D's for the house bank plus a series 31 engine starting battery.

Thanks, Bill
CD 36 #114
Phoenix



cochrane@clark.net

[warren]

What have other CD36 owners done to increase the battery bank size? I have the batteries on a shelf in the port lazarette with the water heater; it puts them up under the side deck in a position that makes checking water difficult, and installation/removal/securing is also a pain.

I have my eye on the locker under the forward-facing seat on the end of the port settee, which should work fine if I increase the lid opening and can figure out how to fish the cables under the galley stove space (easy) and under the icebox (????). Anyone done this, or found other ways/places to mount batteries? I'd like to end up with a pair of 8D's for the house bank plus a series 31 engine starting battery.

Thanks, Bill
CD 36 #114
Phoenix

I'd like to know also. We have a similar battery arrangement to Bill. The house bank is 2 batteries outboard in the locker and the engine bank a single battery slightly more forward and medial - we would like to tie these together into a three battery house bank and put a single engine battery elsewhere, preferable to starboard as the boat lists slightly to port as it is. Any suggestions?

Warren



wstringer@aristotle.net

[Chris Reinke]

Bill - One recommendation which was made to me when I added additional battery capacity on my CD330 was to try and keep the batteries relatively high in the boat. In the unfortunate event that you take in a considerable amount of water you would loose all power relatively quickly if the batteries are lower in the cabin. While the bilge pump, and even motor, may be disabled I would prefer to keep my radio functioning as long as possible.

I have two deep cycles for house batteries on circuit #1 and a single high amp automobile style battery as my starting circuit. All three are mounted in my starboard locker (where my shore charger is also located). Mounting them outside the cabin also reduces the possibility of accumulating any discharged gasses which the batteries can produce if overcharged (often referred to as "gassing out").

I apologize for not directly address your question concerning mounting in a CD36, and perhaps I even added some additional confusion to your decision.

What have other CD36 owners done to increase the battery bank size? I have the batteries on a shelf in the port lazarette with the water heater; it puts them up under the side deck in a position that makes checking water difficult, and installation/removal/securing is also a pain.

I have my eye on the locker under the forward-facing seat on the end of the port settee, which should work fine if I increase the lid opening and can figure out how to fish the cables under the galley stove space (easy) and under the icebox (????). Anyone done this, or found other ways/places to mount batteries? I'd like to end up with a pair of 8D's for the house bank plus a series 31 engine starting battery.

Thanks, Bill
CD 36 #114
Phoenix

Chris.reinke@transamerica.com

[Roald Horton]

I have done a major electrical upgrade on both the AC & DC side. I built a shelf (2 tiers) at the aft end of the quarter berth (behind the panel) outboard of the propane locker into which I installed two 6 volt gel cells wired in series. This gives me 115 amp hours of dedicated house battery. Because they are gel cells there is no maintenance required at this out of the way location and it is still fairly close to the engine so the wire runs (00) are not too long. I use a 120 amp alternator since it is the most efficient at my cruising speed. My engine starting battery is in the original location adjacent to the water heater and is a size 31 12 volt gel cell. NOTE: Gel and wet cells should NOT be mixed. This battery is also connected with 00 cables. These cables made a world of difference in starting ability. By the way, my first gel cell battery lasted over ten years in house service.
I have the DC side broken into 42 circuits with a great deal of new wire. I also have 10 AC circuits, some tied to the inverter and some not. This arrangement has been most satisfactory. I live at anchor in the Bahamas for 8 month stretches with no electrical problems.

Roald Horton
"SeaScape" CD36 #57

What have other CD36 owners done to increase the battery bank size? I have the batteries on a shelf in the port lazarette with the water heater; it puts them up under the side deck in a position that makes checking water difficult, and installation/removal/securing is also a pain.

I have my eye on the locker under the forward-facing seat on the end of the port settee, which should work fine if I increase the lid opening and can figure out how to fish the cables under the galley stove space (easy) and under the icebox (????). Anyone done this, or found other ways/places to mount batteries? I'd like to end up with a pair of 8D's for the house bank plus a series 31 engine starting battery.

Thanks, Bill
CD 36 #114
Phoenix

roald@toad.net

[Catherine Monaghan]

Bill,

We don't have a CD36, but here's what we're doing on our CD32.

We've kept the original location of the 2 main batteries (in the port lazerette just forward of the hot water heater). A battery box was built in there out of plywood and glassed in place, to replace the orginal attachment for the batteries. We've added a third battery to the storage compartment which is located just forward of the water tank located under the quarter berth on the starboard side. My husband is building a shelf at the inboard side of this compartment so that the battery will sit flat within a battery box which will be strapped in place so that it cannot move. It's also very close to the engine, the other batteries and the electrical panel.

If you're worried that this location is too low in the boat for batteries in the event of high water, purchase gel cells instead of liquid lead acid batteries. They will continue to function even if immersed in 10 feet of water.

Happy sailing,
catherine_monaghan@merck.com
CD32 Realization
Raritan Bay

What have other CD36 owners done to increase the battery bank size? I have the batteries on a shelf in the port lazarette with the water heater; it puts them up under the side deck in a position that makes checking water difficult, and installation/removal/securing is also a pain.

I have my eye on the locker under the forward-facing seat on the end of the port settee, which should work fine if I increase the lid opening and can figure out how to fish the cables under the galley stove space (easy) and under the icebox (????). Anyone done this, or found other ways/places to mount batteries? I'd like to end up with a pair of 8D's for the house bank plus a series 31 engine starting battery.

Thanks, Bill
CD 36 #114
Phoenix

catherine_monaghan@merck.com

[Bill Cochrane]

Roald, I'm curious about a couple aspects of your design. I don't have a propane locker (use CNG) and don't know how/where CD put it when they built 'em in. I've contemplated changing to propane so would be interested in how it was done. Aft of my quarterberth is the starboard lazarette; inboard from that is steering gear. Was the propane locker built into the lazarette?

Also on the larger electrical panels...on my boat the factory panel is above the engine access hatch, behind the companionway ladder and under the bridge deck. Not a lot of room for a larger panel. Where did you put your new panels?

The larger wire helping starting is something I'd contemplated...I've got the factory installed #4 and have had some starting problems. Might look at rewiring.

Thanks...Bill

I have done a major electrical upgrade on both the AC & DC side. I built a shelf (2 tiers) at the aft end of the quarter berth (behind the panel) outboard of the propane locker into which I installed two 6 volt gel cells wired in series. This gives me 115 amp hours of dedicated house battery. Because they are gel cells there is no maintenance required at this out of the way location and it is still fairly close to the engine so the wire runs (00) are not too long. I use a 120 amp alternator since it is the most efficient at my cruising speed. My engine starting battery is in the original location adjacent to the water heater and is a size 31 12 volt gel cell. NOTE: Gel and wet cells should NOT be mixed. This battery is also connected with 00 cables. These cables made a world of difference in starting ability. By the way, my first gel cell battery lasted over ten years in house service.
I have the DC side broken into 42 circuits with a great deal of new wire. I also have 10 AC circuits, some tied to the inverter and some not. This arrangement has been most satisfactory. I live at anchor in the Bahamas for 8 month stretches with no electrical problems.

Roald Horton
"SeaScape" CD36 #57

What have other CD36 owners done to increase the battery bank size? I have the batteries on a shelf in the port lazarette with the water heater; it puts them up under the side deck in a position that makes checking water difficult, and installation/removal/securing is also a pain.

I have my eye on the locker under the forward-facing seat on the end of the port settee, which should work fine if I increase the lid opening and can figure out how to fish the cables under the galley stove space (easy) and under the icebox (????). Anyone done this, or found other ways/places to mount batteries? I'd like to end up with a pair of 8D's for the house bank plus a series 31 engine starting battery.

Thanks, Bill
CD 36 #114
Phoenix

cochrane@clark.net

[Tim]

I too have added batteries to my CD 36 and placed them on a shelf that I built and glassed in on the port side. I installed four 6-volt batteries (golf cart type) with about 440ah total, seperated the starting battery totally from the house batteries, and manage the whole thing with a Link2000R monitor. I use a wind generator to maintain the starting battery, and charge the house system with a Heart Interface Inverter/Charger and wind generator. In the last year, everything works great and I unplug the AC during the week and everything is still topped off.

The batteries are a bit of a pain to get to, but topping them off is easy. Removal requires ugly clothes and a trip into the locker. Also, with water tanks low the boat leans a bit to port.



smale@idyllwild.com

[Tim]

Bill,

I added a propane locker to my CD36 last summer by using the lazerette in the stern and building and glassing in a shelf to house a two-tank locker purchased from Defender. It fits great, and you can still use the locker. I added a thru-hull in the locker to vent the system, making sure that the run continued south all the way to the bottom of the locker - no small feat. I added a one-way valve to keep the H2O out and the propane going in the correct direction. As you know, it searches for low points, so you need to ensure that it will head down with no bends up in the hose or valve.

The locker houses two tanks, all valves, and shut-offs. The only thing going in and out are hoses, properly sealed through the locker. I also instaled two sniffers with alarms - good insurance for propane use.



smale@idyllwild.com

[Russell]

Tim,

I think we have the same vintage of CD 36 as you. Given that you did not convert the entire lazarette to a propane locker, and can still use part of it for storing other things, which part exactly was sealed off into a propane locker? Did you create a separate outside lid for this part, or are you relying on propane's weight to keep it from flowing over the top of the new bulkhead panel?

Thanks!

[Ryan Turner]

Hi Roald,

In your note you said: "NOTE: Gel and wet cells should NOT be mixed."

My 1983 CD33 came with two gel cells as the house bank and a BIG lead acid battery on the other bank (former owner used it to run refrigeration unit). I remember reading that lead acid and gel cel batteries required different charging regimes and that you needed to have a charger smart enough to handle this. What's up with this and why shouldn't you mix the two battery types?

Ryan Turner
s/v Zenobia
1983 CD33 hull no. 100
Oriental, NC



rdtec@aol.com

[Roald Horton]

The propane locker is located under the aft end of the starboard seat locker beneath a sealed hatch. It is inboard of of the gunwale by 18 in or so, so there is plenty of space for batteries. The space outboard of the propane locker was dead space caused by the incorporation of the propane locker. The original design called for the batteries to be located in that volume (hence the port list when they moved them to the hot water tank side). My boat has a solid bulkhead at the aft end of this area separating it from the lazarette. The Heart inverter is mounted on the aft side of this bulkhead. The
new deck layout boats have a different arrangement.
I replaced my electrical panel (the original 10 breaker) with Heart's new EVI Technology modular panel. It is a 4 module wide by 3 module high array yielding 10 AC and 32 DC breakers. It also includes an AC digital monitor and the Link 2000R panel. This all fits in the same space occupied by the old 10 breaker panel. The modules all join together making one large panel which is hinged at the bottom for easy access. I added half bolts at the top to latch the panel closed. I also have a 10 breaker panel mounted in the cabinet enclosing the bulkhead mounted instruments. These are all breakers that I wanted easy cockpit access to such as the running lights, bilge pump, etc.
If you would like to see the installation, email me and we can make arrangements.
Roald horton
"SeaScape" CD36 #57

Roald, I'm curious about a couple aspects of your design. I don't have a propane locker (use CNG) and don't know how/where CD put it when they built 'em in. I've contemplated changing to propane so would be interested in how it was done. Aft of my quarterberth is the starboard lazarette; inboard from that is steering gear. Was the propane locker built into the lazarette?

Also on the larger electrical panels...on my boat the factory panel is above the engine access hatch, behind the companionway ladder and under the bridge deck. Not a lot of room for a larger panel. Where did you put your new panels?

The larger wire helping starting is something I'd contemplated...I've got the factory installed #4 and have had some starting problems. Might look at rewiring.

Thanks...Bill

I have done a major electrical upgrade on both the AC & DC side. I built a shelf (2 tiers) at the aft end of the quarter berth (behind the panel) outboard of the propane locker into which I installed two 6 volt gel cells wired in series. This gives me 115 amp hours of dedicated house battery. Because they are gel cells there is no maintenance required at this out of the way location and it is still fairly close to the engine so the wire runs (00) are not too long. I use a 120 amp alternator since it is the most efficient at my cruising speed. My engine starting battery is in the original location adjacent to the water heater and is a size 31 12 volt gel cell. NOTE: Gel and wet cells should NOT be mixed. This battery is also connected with 00 cables. These cables made a world of difference in starting ability. By the way, my first gel cell battery lasted over ten years in house service.
I have the DC side broken into 42 circuits with a great deal of new wire. I also have 10 AC circuits, some tied to the inverter and some not. This arrangement has been most satisfactory. I live at anchor in the Bahamas for 8 month stretches with no electrical problems.

Roald Horton
"SeaScape" CD36 #57

What have other CD36 owners done to increase the battery bank size? I have the batteries on a shelf in the port lazarette with the water heater; it puts them up under the side deck in a position that makes checking water difficult, and installation/removal/securing is also a pain.

I have my eye on the locker under the forward-facing seat on the end of the port settee, which should work fine if I increase the lid opening and can figure out how to fish the cables under the galley stove space (easy) and under the icebox (????). Anyone done this, or found other ways/places to mount batteries? I'd like to end up with a pair of 8D's for the house bank plus a series 31 engine starting battery.

Thanks, Bill
CD 36 #114
Phoenix

roald@toad.net

[Roald Horton]

Ryan,
The reason the 2 types should not be mixed is that the gel cells are charged at a lower voltage than the wet cells. If you don't do this you will quickly destroy the gel cell. Using a Link 2000, there is a special setting for gel cells. If you have a wet cell in the system while charging for the gels, you'll under charge the wet cell. I had a fellow who does electrical work on boats work with me on my upgrade and he was adamant about not mixing the two. He works very closely with the yacht electrical standards group in Annapolis.
Roald Horton
"SeaScape" CD36 #57

Hi Roald,

In your note you said: "NOTE: Gel and wet cells should NOT be mixed."

My 1983 CD33 came with two gel cells as the house bank and a BIG lead acid battery on the other bank (former owner used it to run refrigeration unit). I remember reading that lead acid and gel cel batteries required different charging regimes and that you needed to have a charger smart enough to handle this. What's up with this and why shouldn't you mix the two battery types?

Ryan Turner
s/v Zenobia
1983 CD33 hull no. 100
Oriental, NC

roald@toad.net

[warren]

Russell,

On Eendracht, CD 36 #54, 1981, the propane locker is installed under the aft cockpit seat. We have the older style cockpit with the aft seat going all the way across; originally the aft lazarette extended undet this seat also. The previous owner had installed a "drop-in" propane locker which was unsupported except at the top; over the years this had led to delamination and water damage in the plywood core in the seat. When we bought the boat the yard (Robinhood) glassed in a plywood bulkhead from deck to hull aft of the propane locker, and bolted the propane locker to this - very secure. The rest of the aft lazarette astern and alongside this bulkhead is still available for storage. The smaller, starboard side cockpit locker is unaffected by all this; we may put an extra battery there to balance the slight port list we carry.

Warren



wstringer@aristotle.net

[Tim]

Russell,

I built a base using marine plywood for the 2-tank fiberglass locker and glassed in to the bottom of the lazerette with supports that were also glassed in that led to the bulkhead. It is a very secure arrangement - I even painted it the same color as the lazerette so it looks like it should be there. I then used closed cell foam around where the tanks sit so it's a very tight fit and bolted them in place. The tank is completely sealed and I used the proper gaskets around the solonoid wires and hoses, and the lid has it's own secure gasket seal. The locker is easy to open and I open and close the valves each time I use the propane system. To fill the tanks requires a slight movement aft, which is slick since the open lid keeps the locker from sliding back towards the bulkhed when opened. The movement aft is only about 4" to give enough clearance to remove the tanks, then the whole deal simply slides back to fit in the base. I use a couple of shock cords to hold in in place in the event of heavy seas, although this is overkill since the base and sides hold the locker securely. I have enough clearance on either side of the locker to stow gear with this arrangement. I'll be happy to send you a picture if you want - just give me your e-mail address or mailing address. Hope this helps, Tim




igassn@aol.com

[Tim]

I would be careful about the length of the runs to the battery. Be sure to check a good source for cable size, length of run, and resistance drop, otherwise you'll loose too much power. Worse yet, you may not ba able to start your "iron jib" effectively if the length is too long. That's why I chose the port lazerette for house and starting batteries (see above).

Tim



smale@idyllwild.com