In case anyone may benefit from my experience,the one-cylinder Farrymann diesel (German)in my CD-28 had the annoying habit of dying when at low idle, and the idle could not be set properly. I'm told that this is a common problem with some diesels, especially one-cylinders, since engine vibration, which causes the "creep," is most evident at low RPMs, and throttles itself back when in idle. (On my engine, which has a two-lever arrangement -- one for throttle, the other for gearshift--you shut down by bringing the throttle clear back) My engine mech solved the problem by installing a "throttle stopper" or "throttle brake" which grips the Morse throttle cable to hold whatever idle you want and then releases when you move the throttle again. It's an inexpensive Morse part (around $5) but provides great peace of mind in tight situations. Thought this might help someone else with a similar problem. -- Joe Brown
joebrown@mint.net
"Throttle creep"
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Ed Haley
Re: "Throttle creep"
Another simple corrective measure which I had to do with my Volvo engine would be to place a small U-bolt around the throttle cable and tighten just enough so that the cable housing provides friction to the cable.
eghaley@dreamscape.com
eghaley@dreamscape.com
-
Walt Bilofsky
Re: "Throttle creep"
My Volvo engine guy did the same thing when I first got my boat - a CD 30 flybridge - though in my case it was vibration at high speed that caused the throttle to back off. I never really liked the throttle brake because it's got to be causing wear inside the cable - after all, it's just pinching the cable to get friction.
I seem to recall that moving the cable on the throw arm inside the throttle control removed the need for the brake. It was in the hole furthest from the pivot, and I moved it to the next hole in. This gave the throttle cable less leverage against the control arm. I was then able to tighten down the friction control - on the outside of the control lever at the pivot - to provide enough friction to hold the throttle at all speeds. As a bonus, I got a longer throw for the same change in throttle, which made it easier to set a precise speed.
If you try this, make sure you can still can get WOT with the control. You may need to adjust the stop - the adjustments are under the Morse plate on the outside of the control. (Had you wondered why that plate screws on?)
bilofsky@toolworks.com
I seem to recall that moving the cable on the throw arm inside the throttle control removed the need for the brake. It was in the hole furthest from the pivot, and I moved it to the next hole in. This gave the throttle cable less leverage against the control arm. I was then able to tighten down the friction control - on the outside of the control lever at the pivot - to provide enough friction to hold the throttle at all speeds. As a bonus, I got a longer throw for the same change in throttle, which made it easier to set a precise speed.
If you try this, make sure you can still can get WOT with the control. You may need to adjust the stop - the adjustments are under the Morse plate on the outside of the control. (Had you wondered why that plate screws on?)
bilofsky@toolworks.com