I have recently been asked to help restore a CD 10 that has been lying upside down in a back yard for the last 10 or so years. Unfortunately the teak rub rail has rotted an in need of replacing. Does anyone know of a good wood shop in the Bay Head, NJ area that can replicate the parts I need?
Stowe.Harth@worldnet.att.net
CD-10 Rub Rail
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Kurt Lyons
Re: CD-10 Rub Rail
Too bad it's not a 9' Dyer Dhow you're working on... I was able to have the steam bent oak rub rail and inner clamp airshipped to me from the Anchorage a couple years ago when I restored a 25 year old Dhow.
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Bill Bloxham
Re: CD-10 Rub Rail
Try Sherman's Millwork in Manasquan. They have a good selection of teak, and can mold it for you. They have a long lead time, however.
mmmmmmbill@aol.com
mmmmmmbill@aol.com
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Harris
Re: CD-10 Rub Rail
I had a CD 10 a number of years ago in Toms River. I wonder if that is my old boat? Hull 1040 if I remember. Although I can't quote price...Beatons in Brick is the first place to inquire. Also Nelsons in Island Heights redid a Bullseye last year and replaced all the teak. These are the 2 sailboat yards that I know of in the area.
hg@myhost.com
hg@myhost.com
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Captain Mike
Re: CD-10 Rub Rail
Dear sailor:
Making a gunwale for a vessel does not require a mastership builder. I had the misfortune a damaging the gunwale on my CD 22D by the wake of a large power vessel which drove my vessel into the dock piling breaking the gunwale midship. It was impossible to repair the damage section as suggested by others without removing the entire gunwale. The scare would always be visible and iritate me endlessly. I removed the damaged gunwale by drilling out the plugs and removing the screws. A new gunwale can be shaped using the old one as a demensional template. The usual demension for Cape Dory is one inch wide and 3/4rds thick. The wood is tapered outward to be 3/4" wide, then slightly rounded. The fasteners are on 8 inch centers. Releave the underneath middle 1/3 of the gunwale approximately 1/16th inch with a rabbiting plane or gouge. This allows for adhesive thickness and adaptibility to the hull. Drill the gunwale on 8 inch centers with a plug bit. Clamp the gunwale to the vessel's sides and drill the hull. If the gunwale can not be clamped into placed then drill and screw your way to the stem. Attach both gunwales at the same time or you may cause this size vessel to twist. It is eazier to work from stern to stem. I used 3M's 5200 for an adhesive. A good first mate is worth their weight in gold when doing this job. The difficultly I had which you may not for a 10' vessel is scarfing the pieces together. Fortunately, I found a local lumberyard the supplies 1" teak rough cut of lenghs 11' and greater which offered me a single joint. I remember when materials were not available I used old teak floor boards 7' long to fabricate a gunwale 24' which required five scarf joints a side to make the required length.
Many happy repairs; Captain Mike
mattngly@concentric.net
Making a gunwale for a vessel does not require a mastership builder. I had the misfortune a damaging the gunwale on my CD 22D by the wake of a large power vessel which drove my vessel into the dock piling breaking the gunwale midship. It was impossible to repair the damage section as suggested by others without removing the entire gunwale. The scare would always be visible and iritate me endlessly. I removed the damaged gunwale by drilling out the plugs and removing the screws. A new gunwale can be shaped using the old one as a demensional template. The usual demension for Cape Dory is one inch wide and 3/4rds thick. The wood is tapered outward to be 3/4" wide, then slightly rounded. The fasteners are on 8 inch centers. Releave the underneath middle 1/3 of the gunwale approximately 1/16th inch with a rabbiting plane or gouge. This allows for adhesive thickness and adaptibility to the hull. Drill the gunwale on 8 inch centers with a plug bit. Clamp the gunwale to the vessel's sides and drill the hull. If the gunwale can not be clamped into placed then drill and screw your way to the stem. Attach both gunwales at the same time or you may cause this size vessel to twist. It is eazier to work from stern to stem. I used 3M's 5200 for an adhesive. A good first mate is worth their weight in gold when doing this job. The difficultly I had which you may not for a 10' vessel is scarfing the pieces together. Fortunately, I found a local lumberyard the supplies 1" teak rough cut of lenghs 11' and greater which offered me a single joint. I remember when materials were not available I used old teak floor boards 7' long to fabricate a gunwale 24' which required five scarf joints a side to make the required length.
Many happy repairs; Captain Mike
Stowe Harth wrote: I have recently been asked to help restore a CD 10 that has been lying upside down in a back yard for the last 10 or so years. Unfortunately the teak rub rail has rotted an in need of replacing. Does anyone know of a good wood shop in the Bay Head, NJ area that can replicate the parts I need?
mattngly@concentric.net