This bulletin board, hosted by the CDSOA, Inc., is the on-line meeting place for all Cape Dory owners and groups. We welcome everyone's questions, answers and comments about Cape Dory sailboat
Tony Batchelor wrote:I bought a CD 30 nearly two years ago, the surveyor found the rusted shroud plates and after I received a quote for their replacement I decided to go ahead to purchase the vessel. I now regret that decision.
For as long as I've owned my boat and for as long as I've been reading and posting on this board, you're the first owner to have expressed regret at having bought a Cape Dory.
The rusty chainplate question comes up now and then. Most of us have experienced leaks of one sort or another. Most of us have or have had delamination and soft spots in the deck. But somehow we love our boats without regret.
Same here, fixing those plates was a bitch but boy was it ever worth it!
The problems are tiny compaired to other boats, my backing plates were 30 years old, nad now they are brand new.
Tony Batchelor wrote:I bought a CD 30 nearly two years ago, the surveyor found the rusted shroud plates and after I received a quote for their replacement I decided to go ahead to purchase the vessel. I now regret that decision.
For as long as I've owned my boat and for as long as I've been reading and posting on this board, you're the first owner to have expressed regret at having bought a Cape Dory.
The rusty chainplate question comes up now and then. Most of us have experienced leaks of one sort or another. Most of us have or have had delamination and soft spots in the deck. But somehow we love our boats without regret.
Same here, fixing those plates was a bitch but boy was it ever worth it!
The problems are tiny compaired to other boats, my backing plates were 30 years old, and now they are brand new.
I'm extremely happy with my '85 CD 30. It's a well found boat with great sailing qualities and beautiful lines.
Earlier boats used mild steel for backing plate material. I believe the issue with rust is due to improper bedding of the chainplate bolts- something that owners must renew from time to time.
They are great boats. I don't think there has been a boat manufactured yet that doesn't have some issue, especially those like ours that are 20+ years old.
I was able to look as closely as I could at the back up plates. The one on the sides looked good really no rust, the aft one was covered with a grey bonding type material is was so thick, I couldn't see the plate.
The bow plate was very visible and extremely rusted.It would need to be replaced as I could not deal with all the rust never mind the fact that it may fail.
Can the bow plate be removed from the inside and replaced from the inside without removing the bowsprint. I don't mind removing and rebedding deck hardware but the bow sprint may be quite involved. Should new plate be SS. I will search this site for any description of this if any one has details I would appreciate it.
The rest of the boat seemed sound, no evidence of leaks rotten wood etc., surveyor may find other faults by I didn't yet. It was really a very pretty vessel.
Under no circumstances should you use aluminum as backplate replacement material. It will disintegrate over time due to galanic reaction with SS fasteners. Do not use mild steel because it may rust. Use stainless steel, principally because you will in all liklihood use SS fasteners. If you use bronze Fasteners, then use bronze back plate (if you can find it) Remember, the builder didn't use aluminum or mild steel because it was the best; he used it because it was cheaper than SS. Irwin used plywood. Morgan simply used a small fender washer or just the nut with no washer. At least CD's usually have back plates.
You do not have to remove the bowsprit to replace any hardware, but you might have to re-attach the forward stay at another location, or even unstep the mast.
Will
Jambalaya
CD30
My '77 Cd30 did have a steel reinforcing plate under the bow that was practically disentagrated.It took a few hours of nasty uncomfortable work to remove it.The most difficult was grinding out the "horn" that follows the curvature of the bow and was imbedded in resin.Once out it was a straight forward replacement with a stainless one I had fabricated.As I recall the shop invoice was $125. RM
________ Cb750a
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:09, edited 1 time in total.
Tony Batchelor wrote:The answer may well be because the hull deck joint is leaking.
for more on this topic look back just a week or two on the board.
While it is possible the hull deck joint caused the mild steel plates to rust, it's more likely that leaky stanchion base hardware did it. They should be rebedded. Those with older CDs where the mild steel plates are still in good condition should be squirting, slathering, painting, rust preventative on them regularly.
Also it may be possible to avoid "destruction" of the cabinetry. A couple of well-placed access panels could be cut and then trimmed to look proper, affording future inspection and access.
Good luck finding a comparable quality boat for the same money. As far as I am concerned the Cape Dory represents the most boat for the buck in a well supported American built production boat.
