I have installed a vang system on my CD25D and am interested in options for controlling the vang line from the cockpit. Has anyone installed a stopper or jam cleat or small winch on the coach top accesible from the cockpit? My major question is how to put one of these devices in and back it properly without destroying the cabin liner.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
jim
james.jamieson@yale.edu
Winch/Rope Stopper on CD25D Coach Top
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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John Martin
Re: Winch/Rope Stopper on CD25D Coach Top
We have a Garhaur Rigid Vang on our CD28. I removed the sea hood and installed a swival cam cleat on the forward edge, centered. With 16:1 purchase, there is not much pressure on the cleat. The control line is led aft to an eye strap next to the main hatch. The vang control line can be reached from either side of the cockpit. So far, this has worked very well. Good luck.jim wrote: I have installed a vang system on my CD25D and am interested in options for controlling the vang line from the cockpit. Has anyone installed a stopper or jam cleat or small winch on the coach top accesible from the cockpit? My major question is how to put one of these devices in and back it properly without destroying the cabin liner.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
jim
John Martin
CD28 #346 Intrepid
john.martin.2@worldnet.att.net
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Bob Ohler
Re: Winch/Rope Stopper on CD25D Coach Top
Jim, I installed #6 Lewmar winches on my coach roof two years ago. I use these to control my halyards. I thru-bolted the winches to aluminum backup plates between the coach roof and the hull liner. The trick was cutting the hull liner, the back up plates, and the wood plugs to conceal the bolts, yet allow access to the bolts for servicing.
I cut the aluminum back up plates from 1/4" flat plate. I used a 3 7/8" hole saw, which produced 3 3/4" back up plates. ( Hole saws are sized by the size of the internal hole that they cut, rather than the size of the plug that they produce.)
I had carefully located each winch on the coach roof, and drilled one center hole down into the cabin. This gave me the center of the hole that I needed to cut with the hole saw into the hull liner. Next, I had one person hold a vacuum cleaner next to the hole saw while I drilled the hull liner. After that, I did a DRY installation, with the winch, the back up plate and the bolts. ( The wood plugs I made at home on the lathe, and installed these later.)
I then removed the hardware, used Rule Industries bedding tape, and evenly tightened the bolts.
I did the same for the turning blocks at the mast, the winches, and the cleats, although the turning blocks forward required mounting the back up plates on the cabin side of the hull liner. I concealed these also with wood blocks, hollowed out to accept and cover the plates and the ends of the bolts.
Here's the key....
PLAN it all out...especially locations. Get everything you'll be needing, including hardware, bolts, and bedding compound. Have someone there help you. Use a vacuum WHILE you are drilling!
It's a fatal feeling drilling holes this size in the cabin, but mine worked just fine.
E-mail me if you need more advice. It's a nice project, and makes single handed sailing easier, in most, but not all situations.
Bob Ohler
CD25D, Hull #2
"Aloha Spirit"
bobohler@chesapeake.net
I cut the aluminum back up plates from 1/4" flat plate. I used a 3 7/8" hole saw, which produced 3 3/4" back up plates. ( Hole saws are sized by the size of the internal hole that they cut, rather than the size of the plug that they produce.)
I had carefully located each winch on the coach roof, and drilled one center hole down into the cabin. This gave me the center of the hole that I needed to cut with the hole saw into the hull liner. Next, I had one person hold a vacuum cleaner next to the hole saw while I drilled the hull liner. After that, I did a DRY installation, with the winch, the back up plate and the bolts. ( The wood plugs I made at home on the lathe, and installed these later.)
I then removed the hardware, used Rule Industries bedding tape, and evenly tightened the bolts.
I did the same for the turning blocks at the mast, the winches, and the cleats, although the turning blocks forward required mounting the back up plates on the cabin side of the hull liner. I concealed these also with wood blocks, hollowed out to accept and cover the plates and the ends of the bolts.
Here's the key....
PLAN it all out...especially locations. Get everything you'll be needing, including hardware, bolts, and bedding compound. Have someone there help you. Use a vacuum WHILE you are drilling!
It's a fatal feeling drilling holes this size in the cabin, but mine worked just fine.
E-mail me if you need more advice. It's a nice project, and makes single handed sailing easier, in most, but not all situations.
Bob Ohler
CD25D, Hull #2
"Aloha Spirit"
bobohler@chesapeake.net
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Bob Luby
Re: Winch/Rope Stopper on CD25D Coach Top
Jim:
A couple of years ago I had Sound Rigging of Essex move one of the halyard winches to my stbd cabin top, and put in a couple of cleats and a deck organizer. Now I can raise the main from the cockpit.
No leaks yet!
I believe they simply used Epoxy and 5200. The cabin top is balsa cored, so it's naturally pretty stiff. All that appears in the cabin are stainless acorn nuts.
This saves you "one winch" of $$$$.
Rluby@aol.com
A couple of years ago I had Sound Rigging of Essex move one of the halyard winches to my stbd cabin top, and put in a couple of cleats and a deck organizer. Now I can raise the main from the cockpit.
No leaks yet!
I believe they simply used Epoxy and 5200. The cabin top is balsa cored, so it's naturally pretty stiff. All that appears in the cabin are stainless acorn nuts.
This saves you "one winch" of $$$$.
Rluby@aol.com