Cutter V sloop rigging

[rschattman]

I have just rigged Solstice (CD 36)with her inner forestay. Im yet to decide if I like the benefits of the club foot. My question is this, how do others compare performance with and without the forsail and what is the best technique for coming about. There is very little area for the jib to pass through. Is backwinding a viable option? Any suggestions would be appreciated..... thanks - Richard

[David van den Burgh]

Richard,

The slot between the inner forestay and the headstay may seem a bit tight, but if you're flying a yankee you shouldn't have any problems. It does help to let the sail slide through the slot on its own rather than dragging it through, though. If, like others, you have a genoa on roller furling, then I can't speak from experience, but I wouldn't be surprised if it complicates matters.

Regarding performace, I'm a bit of a traditionalist and see little room for improvement on Alberg's design. The number of sail combinations possible with the boat in her original configuration is hard to beat. In fact, the rig's versatility allows you to pick a sail combination for almost any condition. Recently, we spent a relatively comfortable - albeit slightly wet - day sailing under double-reefed main and staysail into 25+ knot winds and sloppy seas - and we still made about 6 knots. Ariel balanced beautifully and we didn't have to fuss with tacking the jib.

Clearly I cast my vote in favor of leaving her the way she was designed, but don't take my word for it, take Solstice out and put her through the paces.

Happy Sailing!

[Richard]

Thanks David,

You are correct when you say it is difficult with a 150. I am currently flying a 110 with the staysail. Is there a difference in the easy of tacking when you have the staysail up v not?

Richard

[mahalocd36]

We notice that it's easier to tack the yankee with the staysail up (or in our case, unfurled). Never has a problem going through.

The only time it gets caught up without the staysail is in light air. In moderate air it goes through on it's own with the force of the wind. (In heavy air you don't have it up Only a few times have we had to go up and walk it through in light air. Because it's light air, it's no big deal.

I've heard some people partially furl it to tack, then unfurl on the other side. We haven't bothered trying this yet - it just hasn't been that much of a problem. We are considering changing our knots from 2 bowlines on seperate sheets to one long continuous sheet to see if that helps - as when it gets caught it's usually the knot on a stay.

[patturner]

I have just removed the club boom and self-tacking hardware from my stays'l in favor of separate sheets led aft. Have only been out once and it seemed fine. The difference in usable foedeck space is very nice.

If the wind is over 10knts true, there shouldn't be too much difficulty tacking the Yankee throught the slot, I usually follow this proceedure during most wind conditions and it works just fine - 'specially under light wind conditions. Just before tacking, I harden up the stays'l good and tight. Then tack throught the wind, trim the Yankee and then ease the stays'l and retrim. It really takes no time at all when you get used to the system. The only real difference is just hardening up the stays'l which then acts as a wall for the Yankee to press against. The Yankee is going to follow the path of least resistance and that would be the "slot" between the forestay and innerforestay.
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[Neil Gordon]

... I'm a bit of a traditionalist and see little room for improvement on Alberg's design.

I agree, sort of. Sailboat design is all about compromise. There are schemes that work better upwind vs. downwind, some are best on a reach, etc. If the conditions when/where you sail are different from the design assumptions, you won't optimize and modifications might be in order.