I'm trying to figure out how to float my Ty off the trailer.
Could someone please explain how a trailer tongue extension works?
Would a length of 2" Square Steel pipe with a hitch coupler at one end and a ball at the other be sufficient?
How do you keep the Tongue/Extension joint from dragging?
Is Jack-Knifing(sp) an issue?
Thank You in advance,
Randy
Typhoon Trailer Tongue Extension
Moderator: bobdugan
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Randy Capstick
- Posts: 109
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 19:55
- Location: 1980 Ty Weekender, 1984 CD36 Glen Margaret, Nova Scotia, Canada
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winthrop fisher
- Posts: 837
- Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 17:52
- Location: Typhoon Wk 75 "Easy Rider" &
cd 22 "Easy Rider Sr" 84
Re: Typhoon Trailer Tongue Extension
Hi Randy.
some of the trailers have a section thats pulls out (ten feet long)and then you put a trailer pin in it to lock it in place.
like traid trailers do.
trailers that don't have that,
you have to get a extension, so they can launch there boats.
the lucky ones don't have to have an extension at all,
because there ramps are deeper.
the way they do it here is get a trailer dolly and use the two wheels and put a ball 2'' on the top (also put a handle so you can move it around essayer.
then the trailer gos on top of that,
but on the other end put a ball as well so it will go to your car or truck.
then your can launch it and pull it out as well.
you can make it as long as you want.
you can do, what you want as well using a 2'' square pipe with a couper on one end and a ball on the other end, but how are going to hold it up at the boat with the trailer dolly.
you see.
hope thats helps.
winthrop
some of the trailers have a section thats pulls out (ten feet long)and then you put a trailer pin in it to lock it in place.
like traid trailers do.
trailers that don't have that,
you have to get a extension, so they can launch there boats.
the lucky ones don't have to have an extension at all,
because there ramps are deeper.
the way they do it here is get a trailer dolly and use the two wheels and put a ball 2'' on the top (also put a handle so you can move it around essayer.
then the trailer gos on top of that,
but on the other end put a ball as well so it will go to your car or truck.
then your can launch it and pull it out as well.
you can make it as long as you want.
you can do, what you want as well using a 2'' square pipe with a couper on one end and a ball on the other end, but how are going to hold it up at the boat with the trailer dolly.
you see.
hope thats helps.
winthrop
Randy Capstick wrote:I'm trying to figure out how to float my Ty off the trailer.
Could someone please explain how a trailer tongue extension works?
Would a length of 2" Square Steel pipe with a hitch coupler at one end and a ball at the other be sufficient?
How do you keep the Tongue/Extension joint from dragging?
Is Jack-Knifing(sp) an issue?
Thank You in advance,
Randy
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Rollergirl
- Posts: 87
- Joined: May 21st, '05, 14:27
- Location: Flying Scott, Sunfish
Hi Randy
I had a Load-Rite trailer, and had my dealer sell me a 10' section of the same box section tubing that the trailer used. I put a bolt thru the trailer main stem (just a foot behind the coupler/ball centerline) on the bottom. I used a fender washer on the outside and a self locking nut. The bolt/nut was not tight; it had a space about twice the wall thickness of the box section.
I then cut a slot the bolt thickness wide in the center of 1 wall of the box section extension (BSE), the slot was about two inches long. This slot enabled the BSE to slide along the bottom of the Load-Rite tongue and and couple up. Having done this, the place to drill a hole for the BSE hitch ball was easy and exact. When put together, the ball takes the load and the bolt keeps it straight. I set the BSE 1.5" into the 2" slot.
If this is not clear, picture the BSE parallel to the trailer tongue and it's top surface adjoining the bottom surface of the trailer tongue.
Put a coupler at the other end of the BSE. Don't tow with it; it's just for launching/recovery. Iamb sure turning with this setup would be a big problem.
I would align the trailer with the ramp, and then set up the BASE.
At 10', most ramps will just barely scrape the BSE on the ramp land-side edge; i repainted the BASE underside every year or so.
I got this idea from the Trailer Sailer Forum; lots of excellent ideas there.
Bill
I had a Load-Rite trailer, and had my dealer sell me a 10' section of the same box section tubing that the trailer used. I put a bolt thru the trailer main stem (just a foot behind the coupler/ball centerline) on the bottom. I used a fender washer on the outside and a self locking nut. The bolt/nut was not tight; it had a space about twice the wall thickness of the box section.
I then cut a slot the bolt thickness wide in the center of 1 wall of the box section extension (BSE), the slot was about two inches long. This slot enabled the BSE to slide along the bottom of the Load-Rite tongue and and couple up. Having done this, the place to drill a hole for the BSE hitch ball was easy and exact. When put together, the ball takes the load and the bolt keeps it straight. I set the BSE 1.5" into the 2" slot.
If this is not clear, picture the BSE parallel to the trailer tongue and it's top surface adjoining the bottom surface of the trailer tongue.
Put a coupler at the other end of the BSE. Don't tow with it; it's just for launching/recovery. Iamb sure turning with this setup would be a big problem.
I would align the trailer with the ramp, and then set up the BASE.
At 10', most ramps will just barely scrape the BSE on the ramp land-side edge; i repainted the BASE underside every year or so.
I got this idea from the Trailer Sailer Forum; lots of excellent ideas there.
Bill
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sloopjohnl
randy,
i too have a load rite trailer and my solution was to purchase a ten-foot length of rectangular tubing that would slide inside the tongue of the trailer. it is only slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the trailer tongue. i attached the ball hitch to the end of the extension and used the previous mounting holes for the hitch in the trailer tongue to thru bolt the extension for over-the-road trailering. when it is time to launch i simply unbolt the thru-bolts, chock the wheels of the trailer and pull my tow vehicle forward to slide the extension out. at the other end of the extension i have two more holes that match up to the aforementioned thru-bolt holes. i use pins smaller in diameter than the thru-bolts with holes drilled in both ends for hitch pins - they act the same as the thru-bolts but since it is only necessary for them to be in for launch and retrieval they are easier to remove than the bolts. since we have a very nice concrete launch ramp and the backing distance is not that great, i leave the jack wheel down for added support of the trailer tongue. however, the wall thickness of the rectangular tubing extension is twice that of the trailer tongue tubing and since it fits snugly inside the tongue the jack wheel is not really necessary.
i too have a load rite trailer and my solution was to purchase a ten-foot length of rectangular tubing that would slide inside the tongue of the trailer. it is only slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the trailer tongue. i attached the ball hitch to the end of the extension and used the previous mounting holes for the hitch in the trailer tongue to thru bolt the extension for over-the-road trailering. when it is time to launch i simply unbolt the thru-bolts, chock the wheels of the trailer and pull my tow vehicle forward to slide the extension out. at the other end of the extension i have two more holes that match up to the aforementioned thru-bolt holes. i use pins smaller in diameter than the thru-bolts with holes drilled in both ends for hitch pins - they act the same as the thru-bolts but since it is only necessary for them to be in for launch and retrieval they are easier to remove than the bolts. since we have a very nice concrete launch ramp and the backing distance is not that great, i leave the jack wheel down for added support of the trailer tongue. however, the wall thickness of the rectangular tubing extension is twice that of the trailer tongue tubing and since it fits snugly inside the tongue the jack wheel is not really necessary.
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Nick Price
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 02:40
- Location: Typhoon daysailer 55, "Pattie-B Too".
- Contact:
Pictures
Randy,
Have a look at http://www.nickprice.org.uk/typhoon.htm There are some pictures there of our extension which is very heavy but works well when it's hooked up. We last the extension on the trailer when not in use. Trailer is an early Triad.
Nick
Have a look at http://www.nickprice.org.uk/typhoon.htm There are some pictures there of our extension which is very heavy but works well when it's hooked up. We last the extension on the trailer when not in use. Trailer is an early Triad.
Nick
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DanaVin
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 22:32
- Location: Cape Dory 25, "Gladys Erzella", San Diego Bay--1977, Hull #541
- Contact:
Extension
What you described is exactly what I made for my CD25 when I launch her. Works great; doen't drag on ground.
See website, believe last chapter has pictures of it.
Thanks
Dana
CD25, 1977
See website, believe last chapter has pictures of it.
Thanks
Dana
CD25, 1977
I see several boats that use the tube extension, but for many years I have used a cable without problem. The trailer must have a ramp wheel installed, and do not use the trailer jack wheel. It is not build for this purpose. I block the trailer wheel, attach the cable to the trailer and the truck, pull forward tensioning the cable and then back the trailer and boat in the water, letting the slope of the ramp pull the trailer in the water. I retrieve the same way. For the Typhoon I use a 20 foot tow strap and for a larger boat I have I use a 40 foot steal cable. The tow strap cost 30.00. The ramp wheel I installed was about 15.00. I at one time had a trailer with the tube and when I saw other sailors using the cable I never used the extension tube again.
Mike
Mike
Mike G