best method to remove CETOL?

[Carter Brey]

The more I read the more I tempted to go back to my old favorite, oil, oil, oil. I could clean my teak and apply three coats of oil in the time it takes to just get ready to deal with Cetol and heaven forbide varnish. I made that mistake once. Never again.

Did I mention that I tend to be lazy! AND I'd rather sail than spend time having the best looking brightwork in the marina. BUT that's just me obviously.

Randy 25D Seraph #161

Randy,,

FWIW, I lovingly oiled every millimeter of teak on my 25 two years ago. Two-part cleaner and brightener, then sanding, then the finest teak oil with UV inhibitor money could buy.

By October, after a season in the sun and beneath a major approach path to LaGuardia airport, and just like all the books said it would, it looked like total crap.

I'm back to faux varnish (Epifanes Wood Gloss Finish) and loving it. Looks exactly like classic varnish and wears amazingly well. Not at all difficult to apply; no sanding required (its optional) between coats if done within 72 hours.

Just my $.02

CB

[Stan W.]

I'm back to faux varnish (Epifanes Wood Gloss Finish) and loving it.

I used Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss on my companionway trim this spring and so far I am pleased with the results. However, it is not a slap-on-three-coats-and-your-done product like Cetol or Armada. It requires a full six or seven coats like old-fashioned varnish. I also found it a little fussy to work with and I ended up sanding between some of the coats anyway. I plan to use Epifanes' proprietary thinner instead of brand-x mineral spirits next time and see if that makes any difference. Also, while it drys to the touch within a few hours, it takes a good week to dry to a completely hard finish and is very susceptible to damage during that time.

My preliminary conclusion is that this product may be the way to go for most of the teak trim but the need for six or seven coats rules it out for toerails and rubrails in my case because I just don't have that kind of free time.

[rtbates]

I have a friend who sails a beautiful Pacific Seacraft. He jokingly said one afternoon that he was considering replacing all the teak with SS. That was a year ago. I believe he's getting more serious every day.
It wouldn't be so bad if I had to haul every year and couldn't go sailing even IF the weather permitted. I'd have lots of time for messing around with teak. But here in Texas we sail 365 days a year, every year. I just hate sitting at the dock messing with the teak when I could be sailing. Seems the boat owns ME not visa versa. Maybe a solid brown PAINT with a paux teak finish, Ha Ha.
Too bad CDs look so darn beautiful when the teak is all shiny and smooth. I guess it's got to be a labor of love. And maybe that's why so many new boats have zero teak.
Looks like I'll just have to get my mind in the right place and get to work. I could use our new Sailrite sewing machine to make covers for every square inch of teak after I get it all back to perfect. Oh well at least Seraph is only 25 feet. I say that after I finish diving on the bottom to scrub her every 6 months. Which by the way is the best speed improvement you can make. I pick up at least a knot every time.

thanks all
Randy 25D Seraph #161

[rtbates]

I just got off their web site (see Shanna's response) and CPES seems like it may be the answer to keeping a finish on oily teak
Apparantly a lot has happened in the world of chemicals and wood finish in the past few years.
Any users of CPES care to give their .02?

tks as always

Randy 25D Seraph #161