best method to remove CETOL?

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » Aug 1st, '05, 14:24

I'm thinking of stripping all the CETOL off Seraph and starting anew. Why, because it's so darn dark and if that's not bad enough I've gotten some flaking off in the toe rail to cap rail joint. I know of Cetol Light but I live in Texas and need as much UV protection as I can get. I'm currently using Cetol Marine Satin with a top coat of Gloss.
I may just touch up, but you never know what wild hair I may get.
I've searched using "removal of cetol" and found a little info but not much.
What have you guys and gals found to be the easiest, and that's my definition of 'best', method of removal?
I've got plenty of time seeing as how it's close to 100 degrees these days and will be for awhile. Speaking of which, if a apply Cetol in the morning when it's 75 how long must it sit before it doesn't mind 90 + and gets too hot. I know high temp and direct sun are a no no.

Any and all advice and opinions are welcome. Shoot I may even go back to oil!!

thanks for listening

randy 25D Seraph #161

Parfait's Provider · Post by **Parfait's Provider** » Aug 1st, '05, 14:55

We have begun the process of redoing Parfait's Cetol and can suggest that the easiest thing to do is let it fall off. We have tried scraping, scraping with paint remover, scraping with heat, and sanding with a random orbital sander. We have not tried a belt sander, but it certainly crossed our collective minds.

Our easiest process seems to be to sand the spots that don't flake off with a scraper. We use that random orbital or a B&D Mouser with 60 grit paper for the first cut and it is actually satisfying. Ace Hardware carries some serious scrapers for the tight spots, but scraping flat surfaces is a bore or worse.

The last guy who came by and claimed he really knew how to do this really wasn't much help and I may not be either. Maybe a pro will step on my toes.

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » Aug 1st, '05, 15:21

That's what I was afraid of.
It won't be easy!!! Damn my laziness.
Oil is looking better all the time.

thanks

randy 25D Seraph #161

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Aug 1st, '05, 16:30

Any and all advice is welcome.
Fastest and best way to get cetol off for good is napalm. Iffen your local code dont allow it then paint on double strength Starbucks coffee made in a french press. Brewin time and temp are soooo important. Hope this helps. Your good buddy Bubba

neil · Post by **neil** » Aug 1st, '05, 18:47

HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jerry Hammernik · Post by **Jerry Hammernik** » Aug 1st, '05, 21:44

A heat gun and a quality scraper. I have a couple of BAHCO scrapers. You can Google BAHCO to find them, I got mine at Woodcraft. You apply heat and then pull with the scraper. It will peel right off leaving very little for touch up sanding. Once you get the technique down (it doesn't take long) you can really move.

If you want to be really high tech, then invest in a Fein Multimaster detail sander. They cost way more than the other brands but they work way, way, way better. My Fein sander is the best power tool I've ever owned. (And I've got quite a few

)

It'll be beautiful when you're done. Good Luck!

Parfait's Provider · Post by **Parfait's Provider** » Aug 1st, '05, 22:35

Jerry,

What size Bahco scraper do you use, the 1" triangular? That is essentially what I bought at Ace Hardware. It has a variety of blade shapes, but I still think the sander works best on flat surfaces.

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » Aug 2nd, '05, 16:14

Looks like it's heat and scraping time for me.

randy 25D Seraph #161

Oswego John · Post by **Oswego John** » Aug 2nd, '05, 18:12

Randy, Ken and Bubba too,

No matter how you slice it, hard work is still hard work. No matter which choice or combination of choices of removal you choose, there will be much sweat equity involved. My own Swedish Steam is free and much more of an incentive than paying $60.00/hr for the yard to do the job. If you do the job yourself, it will be performed to your own demanding degree of perfection. How often have you heard of the boatyard giving you a slam/dunk job, taking your megabucks and saying "See ya."

I try to take the enormous job of doing the entire boat brightwork as a single project and break it down into many smaller projects. Instead of facing an enormously frustrating super project, I like to reduce the overall job into smaller units. Small enough that you can still go sailing in between stanzas.

As to the merits of sanding vs scraping flat surfaces, have any of you heard of, or tried a cabinet makers steel. It is an oblong shaped piece of hardened steel with a machined sharpened edge. This tool is used to get the super flat finish on furniture table tops etc before finishing. They come in varying widths ie 4", 6", etc. These steels are for the final stages of preparation, not for the coarse early removal of old finish.

Randy, you mention that your brightwork has become very dark. Through the years, because of a varying thickness of applications or exposure to U V rays, when the old finish is removed, the natural finish of the exposed wood may vary in coloration.

The wood can be transformed to an even uniform color with the use of wood lighteners that employ the use of oxalic acid bleach. They help to draw out any residual finish that is below the surface. If you are uncertain or unsure of using an acid bleach, you might get satisfactory results with one of the many teak cleaners available on the market today. Have fun.

BTW, there is a pervasive feeling among some boatmen that I know that finish removal is strictly women's work, just as is going aloft and scouring muddy anchor chain. Could this notion be for real?

Nah, probably just a rumor.

O J
Not a MC

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » Aug 3rd, '05, 09:59

I couldn't agree more concerning 'doing it yourself'. Especially when it concerns the brightwork. Nobody will ever care as much as I do about how the teak looks on Seraph. It's way too subjective.
Speaking of big projects. What's the old saying," How do eat an elephant? One bite at a time". After years of remodeling our 30 year old house nothing could be more true. And we did it ALL ourselves. No contractors, no helpers. Just my wife and I. One of the biggest advantages of doing it yourself is you can change your mind as often as you like. And we did.

happy sailing
Randy 25D Seraph #161

Shanna Paxton · Post by **Shanna Paxton** » Aug 5th, '05, 17:58

I am in the process of removing Cetol and applying CPES and varnish. I am using a great stripper called Aqua-Strip by back to nature products that is available through www.star-distributing.com. It goes on in a thick gel, works great, and is safe on your gel coat. To remove the cetol/varnish you lightly scrap it with a plastic scrapper and then wash it off. The key os to apply it thick and let it alone to work. Is sure beats heat gunning and sanding everything off. Good luck!

elbows wychulis · Post by **elbows wychulis** » Aug 5th, '05, 20:27

I have a 5 megaton single quantum anilihator you can borrow.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Aug 7th, '05, 20:27

I replaced all the teak on my 27 because I didnt have a life time to deal with the cetol. Aside from the cost of the teak the job took me 6 days. Now the varnish.

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » Aug 8th, '05, 10:59

Larry:

Are you joking? In your opinion it would be easier to actually replace the rub & toe rail rather than the Cetol. Nah, after typing that statement, and assuming you've not had a full frontal lobotomy, you've got to be kidding. Now you're going to apply varnish? I'm confused.

Shanna:

Thanks for the information.

The more I read the more I tempted to go back to my old favorite, oil, oil, oil. I could clean my teak and apply three coats of oil in the time it takes to just get ready to deal with Cetol and heaven forbide varnish. I made that mistake once. Never again.

Did I mention that I tend to be lazy! AND I'd rather sail than spend time having the best looking brightwork in the marina. BUT that's just me obviously.

Randy 25D Seraph #161

Brian D. · Post by **Brian D.** » Aug 8th, '05, 11:21

I was sure Larry's reply was tongue-in-cheek. there's no way the labor of removing perfectly good finished teak and replacing with new unfinished and very pricey teak (which would then have to be treated) would be a better way to go. it'd be cheaper to hire someone to strip it.

Brian

The Cape Dory Board