replace cockpit coaming on CD25

[Bill Willis]

I am thinking about replacing the cockpit coaming on my '77 CD 25 (Sadie). The original teak has gotten thin over the years from sanding and weathering. I have two nice 1x10x8ft teak boards. I'm reasonably good at woodworking. Has anyone out there done this project? Are there any unseen problems? I would appreciate any pointers or suggestions.
Also,the non-skid panels on 'Sadie'consist of a grid pattern texture. They were painted blue by the previous owner. I would like to keep the original texture but change the color to an off-white(primarily for aethestic reasons). Can I repaint the non-skid panels with a one-part epoxy (Interlux, Brightside) without loosing the original non-skid texture? Should I apply some non-skid additive? Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks in advance. Wonderful web site!!!
Bill Willis



wawillis@shore.intercom.net

[Jim Stull]

I am thinking about replacing the cockpit coaming on my '77 CD 25 (Sadie). The original teak has gotten thin over the years from sanding and weathering. I have two nice 1x10x8ft teak boards. I'm reasonably good at woodworking. Has anyone out there done this project? Are there any unseen problems? I would appreciate any pointers or suggestions.
Also,the non-skid panels on 'Sadie'consist of a grid pattern texture. They were painted blue by the previous owner. I would like to keep the original texture but change the color to an off-white(primarily for aethestic reasons). Can I repaint the non-skid panels with a one-part epoxy (Interlux, Brightside) without loosing the original non-skid texture? Should I apply some non-skid additive? Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks in advance. Wonderful web site!!!
Bill Willis

Hi Bill
You ask about problems in replacing the coamings on your CD25.
There is quite a bit of tension due to the manner that the coaming is curved to fit the fiberglass. Getting it bolted back into place is tough particularly where it bolts thru into the cabin. Very easy to crack the teak during this proceedure. Our coaming had a definite curve after removal. Don't know if this was "steamed" in during manufacture or was just caused by long time in place. Be careful "forcing" your new planks into place.
We removed the cockpit coaming from our Cd25 last year for repair and refinishing. It was in bad shape but was repairable. Several very large splits with some small missing pieces- After a thorough sanding, I used West epoxy to repair the splits and used an epoxy/wood flour mix to replace the missing pieces. After refinishing with Cetol results were beautiful. Only minor problem was that epoxy/wood flour area is a bit darker in color. If I was to do again, I think I would use a router and remove damage back to good wood and insert a teak "dutchman"

We also repainted the complete boat using a one part Interlux Hatteras Off White on the nonskid (We used two part poly on the rest of the boat).
As to proceedure:
We sanded and used the recommended Interlux cleaning materials.
Added a bit of flattener to reduce the gloss.
Applied paint with a roller, using a foam brush to cut in where necessary.
While the paint was still wet, sprinkled the Interlux nonskid material into the paint using a kitchen flour shaker covered with a nylon stocking to reduce the flow.
When the paint dried, a green Scotchbrite pad was used to remove any excess sand.
Vacuum.
Then a second coat of paint was applied. Finished!
The results were outstanding.
Jim




jtstull@icubed.com

[Jerry Hammernik]

I am thinking about replacing the cockpit coaming on my '77 CD 25 (Sadie). The original teak has gotten thin over the years from sanding and weathering. I have two nice 1x10x8ft teak boards. I'm reasonably good at woodworking. Has anyone out there done this project? Are there any unseen problems? I would appreciate any pointers or suggestions.
Also,the non-skid panels on 'Sadie'consist of a grid pattern texture. They were painted blue by the previous owner. I would like to keep the original texture but change the color to an off-white(primarily for aethestic reasons). Can I repaint the non-skid panels with a one-part epoxy (Interlux, Brightside) without loosing the original non-skid texture? Should I apply some non-skid additive? Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks in advance. Wonderful web site!!!
Bill Willis

Bill,
Many years ago I was coming into a slip with a 30 knot tailwind. I grabbed one of my lines off the pier and dropped it over the winch. Seconds later the winch, winch stand and a 4 ft. piece of the coaming went over the side. This was around 1980. The factory price for a replacement was $200. They told me if I could get a piece of teak and was handy with tools I could do it myself. Got a piece of teak for $50 and used the broken one for a pattern. It has quite a bit of curvature to it. I used the old one to make a jig and then I put the new one in a steam box. After a few hours I took it out, put it in the jig and let it cool. Then I carefully forced it into place and screwed it down. I'm not so sure I really needed the steam box. I think it might have been ok if I just put it in place and slowly clamped it into position. The woodwork part of it was no big deal. I used Resorcional (spl?) glue to fasten the piece against the cabin to the coaming and to set the bungs.
Good Luck
Jerry Hammernik



dauntles@execpc.com