I am in the process of attempting to remove the shaft on my CD 26D in order to replace the cutlass bearing. After plenty of grunting and groaning from awkward positions, I have disconnected the shaft coupling from the transmission and I have removed the set screws in the shaft coupling. I am now to the point of trying to remove the shaft coupling from the shaft. I have read through the archives and I planned to use the technique of placing something between the shaft and the engine and retightening the coupling to the transmission in order to push the shaft out of the coupling.
My problem is that on my CD 26, there is less than 1/2 inch between the end of the aft end of the shaft coupling and the packing nut. I have only been able to push the shaft back enough to get about 3/8 inch clearance between the shaft coupling and the transmission. This is too small to get anything significant between the shaft and the transmission, which makes the technique described above difficult.
At this point I see two options:
(1) cut the shaft
(2) place thin items like washers between the shaft and the transmission 2 or three at a time and retighten the coupling to the shaft and repeating this process many times (and placing countless washers in the bilge).
For those of you who have tackled this job yourself, once you were able "break" the connection between the shaft and the shaft coupling, did the shaft come out from the coupling relatively painlessly or was it an ordeal all the way until the shaft was completely removed from the coupling. Your answers will probably dictate which of the above options I use.
As always, thanks in advance.
Brian Johnson
CD 26D Windstar
Shaft coupling/cutlass bearing removal
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Zeida Cecilia-Mendez
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 13:18
- Location: Bandolera II, 1981 CD-33- Hull #73 Miami, FL
- Contact:
Shaft coupler
Brian... here is a photo of the coupler, shaft and stuffing box. You can see that also on my CD-33 I don't have much room either. But if your coupler has the two side slits where the bolts are, once you remove both side bolts, with a heavy duty screw driver, pry open just a bit those slits... they DO open up just enough.! then the shaft glides out. Good luck.
[img]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 1990e1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 1990e1.jpg[/img]
Zeida
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fenixrises
- Posts: 450
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
- Location: SunShine S2 11c
- Contact:
Hi Brian,
Be sure to use a good penetrating oil, it helps.
As Zeida's photo shows some boats have a split flange, not too likely on a small single cylinder diesel. These couplers are a bit longer than the standard non-split type and a good idea for replacement but quite expensive.
Although it may seem like a lot of extra work, removing the engine and then using a gear puller might be far easier and ultimately faster.
Cutting the shaft and buying a new one will cost at least $150. Depending on how much you are willing to pay yourself for the job, including contortions, busted knuckles and duration, will determine the viability of this option.
In order to reduce possible misalignment and vibration the couplers are machined to be a very tight fit on the prop shaft. Although you may not have to do this again it is a good idea to use waterproof grease between the shaft and coupling when reassembling.
Take it off baby, take it all off!
Fred B.
I have recently done this on my CD28. It was a bear until the last 1/4" or so. When I started I did not have much fore and aft space. After I got the coupling flange to break free and it moved about 1/2" I was able to remove the vibration isolator which gave me an extra 1" to work with. You may not have this option. The entire removal process was very slow. It took a number of hours spread over a couple of days to accomplish.For those of you who have tackled this job yourself, once you were able "break" the connection between the shaft and the shaft coupling, did the shaft come out from the coupling relatively painlessly or was it an ordeal all the way until the shaft was completely removed from the coupling.
Be sure to use a good penetrating oil, it helps.
As Zeida's photo shows some boats have a split flange, not too likely on a small single cylinder diesel. These couplers are a bit longer than the standard non-split type and a good idea for replacement but quite expensive.
Although it may seem like a lot of extra work, removing the engine and then using a gear puller might be far easier and ultimately faster.
Cutting the shaft and buying a new one will cost at least $150. Depending on how much you are willing to pay yourself for the job, including contortions, busted knuckles and duration, will determine the viability of this option.
In order to reduce possible misalignment and vibration the couplers are machined to be a very tight fit on the prop shaft. Although you may not have to do this again it is a good idea to use waterproof grease between the shaft and coupling when reassembling.
Take it off baby, take it all off!
Fred B.
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Shaft Coupler Remover
Hi Brian,
There is always more than one way to skin a cat. That goes for removing shaft couplers, too. After completing your duly required penance of suffering cracked knuckles, pulled hamstring and twisted lower back muscles, you are now eligible to absorb all the excellent advice of the pilgrims who have already passed through this phase of the agonies of DIY boat ownership.
Split couplings, penetrating oil and wheel pullers are all viable suggestions. No one has mentioned heat to the joint. If you do apply heat, make sure that there is plenty of wet insulating protection in the area and free of fuel. Fire protection should be handy.
There is a tool that we used to use effectively to do this job. It was a tierod removal fork.. For larger diameter shafts, we made our own forked wedges. It seemed to work better if you whacked the handle with a blunt hammer made of brass or lead. In certain situations, you can't take up slack with regular large washers. There is no way to slide them over the shaft. We used horseshoe shims with an open edge to permit sliding them over the shaft.
In any case, stock up on Bandaids and both kinds of liniment, external and internal. Limes help. Vitamin C is good for you, you know. It keeps sailors from getting scurvy.
Good luck,
O J
There is always more than one way to skin a cat. That goes for removing shaft couplers, too. After completing your duly required penance of suffering cracked knuckles, pulled hamstring and twisted lower back muscles, you are now eligible to absorb all the excellent advice of the pilgrims who have already passed through this phase of the agonies of DIY boat ownership.
Split couplings, penetrating oil and wheel pullers are all viable suggestions. No one has mentioned heat to the joint. If you do apply heat, make sure that there is plenty of wet insulating protection in the area and free of fuel. Fire protection should be handy.
There is a tool that we used to use effectively to do this job. It was a tierod removal fork.. For larger diameter shafts, we made our own forked wedges. It seemed to work better if you whacked the handle with a blunt hammer made of brass or lead. In certain situations, you can't take up slack with regular large washers. There is no way to slide them over the shaft. We used horseshoe shims with an open edge to permit sliding them over the shaft.
In any case, stock up on Bandaids and both kinds of liniment, external and internal. Limes help. Vitamin C is good for you, you know. It keeps sailors from getting scurvy.
Good luck,
O J
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Kurt
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Feb 8th, '05, 11:12
- Location: 27' Cape Dory (Alerion),
9' Dyer,
Grosse Pointe, Michigan
How I did it
Hi Brian,
2 years ago I did exactly what you're trying to do on my CD27 although I had more room between the two coupling halves which allowed me to use a socket. It was tight the whole distance as I pulled the aft half of the coupling. I started with a standard socket and then switched to a deep socket as I progressed. You might consider using short pieces of 1/2" iron water pipe starting with a 3/8" long piece and then moving to 1/2" piece then a 3/4" piece etc.
Of absolute most importance it that you CAREFULLY tighten the bolts in a round robin fashion no more than a quarter turn each as you press the coupling off the shaft....you don't want to bend either half of the coupling during the removal procedure. I used a permanent marker on the nuts so that I could be sure that I was tightening them evenly. It took me several hours to get the job done.
Good luck.
Kurt
2 years ago I did exactly what you're trying to do on my CD27 although I had more room between the two coupling halves which allowed me to use a socket. It was tight the whole distance as I pulled the aft half of the coupling. I started with a standard socket and then switched to a deep socket as I progressed. You might consider using short pieces of 1/2" iron water pipe starting with a 3/8" long piece and then moving to 1/2" piece then a 3/4" piece etc.
Of absolute most importance it that you CAREFULLY tighten the bolts in a round robin fashion no more than a quarter turn each as you press the coupling off the shaft....you don't want to bend either half of the coupling during the removal procedure. I used a permanent marker on the nuts so that I could be sure that I was tightening them evenly. It took me several hours to get the job done.
Good luck.
Kurt