How to attach hardware to the mast?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Apr 23rd, '05, 08:56

As I am still new to all of this I have some uncertaintly about drilling anything that seems important. I need to install either a horseshoe bail or pad eye to my mast so I can attach the boom vang. There appears to be an old padeye attachment in the mainsail luff track that broke off.

Any warnings about drilling into the mast to attach something? Any other better suggestions about how to attach the boom vang to the mast end?

Thanks. Any thoughts most appreciated.
Sean
Rhode Island

Carter Brey · Post by **Carter Brey** » Apr 23rd, '05, 13:36

Hi, Sean.

If you go with a horseshoe bail, use the appropriate diameter through bolt and of course make sure first that you will not be drilling through anything inside the mast like wires, Jimmy Hoffa, or what have you. Teflon or nylon rings between the nuts and the mast itself will reduce wear on the aluminium, since the bail will be moving a bit. Also, drill small pilot holes before drilling the main holes for the through bolt, so your drill does not go skittering around uncontrollably.

Brion Toss points out that the boom-side attachment point should be at least 25 percent of the boom's length aft of the gooseneck, in order to counteract the upward pull of the mainsail's center of effort. If this does not get you at least a 30 degree angle, you should consider unstepping the mast and installing a mast step halyard attachment plate with mulitple holes, and run the mast end of the vang to the center aft hole in that. That's as low as you can get on the mast, and increases your angle somewhat.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

CB

Warren Kaplan · Post by **Warren Kaplan** » Apr 23rd, '05, 14:09

Just to add one point to what Carter said, be aware of galvanic action of dissimilar metals. If you are attaching a stainless steal piece to an aluminum mast you need to insulate it. If there is a large flat surface (like a cleat base) I usually get some high quality electrical tape and put two thicknesses on the bottom of the base before attaching to the mast. I trim the excess tape with a scissor so its a perfect fit and is unseen. For screw holes I get an insulating product like Tef-Gel and coat the screws (or bolt in this case) and screw holes with it. Some people will put a wad of Life Caulk between the two parts also as it too affords some electrical insulation. Its not a big deal. Takes less than a minute to smear this stuff on the various parts but can save you lots of corrosion down the line.

Anthony P. Jeske · Post by **Anthony P. Jeske** » Apr 24th, '05, 09:42

Hi Sean:
I have a boom vang installation guide which was published by Spartan Marine, the supplier of many Cape Dory components. It lists the boom and mast bail part numbers and mounting dimensions for all sizes of Cape Dorys from the Ty to CD-36. I'd be happy to e-mail a copy to you.
Regards,
Tony Jeske

Nigel Noble · Post by **Nigel Noble** » Apr 24th, '05, 19:34

Hey Anthony

I would be very interested to receive the Spartan Marine boom vang installation guide - the wonderful thing about this board people ask the very question one has on one's mind.

Thanks in advance.

Best

Nigel

yves feder w1ux · Post by **yves feder w1ux** » Apr 25th, '05, 07:41

Love it Carter, the idea of that drill walking all over the nice aluminum sure is sumtin'

But seriously, DON'T use self tapping sheet metal screws whatever you do! Use SS machine screws, and above all, be sure to use a thread tap with the right thread pitch to pilot the hole and match it to the screw first. Don't rely on the screw to do the thread tapping!!!

That will ensure that you have the strongest possible fit between the screws holding the hardware, and the mast or boom.

Just a thought worth mentioning, unless it's been already covered, in which case just disregard everything just said

Y.

The Cape Dory Board