Repairing Screw Holes and Cutouts on Formica

[Frank Vernet]

Well...I removed our old, rusty, nasty propane range/stove yesterday along with the dead Adler-Barbour refrigeration system. I now have numerous screw holes and 3 significant 2-3" diameter holes in the formica veneered space that formerly held the range/stove.

What is the best way to fill in those holes and, hopefully, blend them into a vanishing quality.

Thanks in advance.

[bottomscraper]

I can't think of any good way to fill in the 2=3" holes. What color is it? Can you just cover the whole surface with a sheet of new formica? Our Home Depot sells partial sheets and I don't think they are very expensive. I suspect if you sand the surface of the old you could just contact cement a new layer on top.

You could get a new stove & fridge

[Frank Vernet]

Rich,

The formica is white, probably like your countertops, et al.

I thought about glueing in new sheets, but the back of the space curves up and I fear I would have a devil of a time matching the arc and, as you know, formica is difficult to cut without chipping.

[M. R. Bober]

When cutting laminates--with a saber saw--use a blade that cuts on the "up" stroke to prevent chipping of the material.

Mitchell Bober
Sunny Annapolis (where we let the chips fall where thet may), MD

[Oswego John]

Hey Mitchell,

How do I cut in reverse? Can I pull the electric plug out of the receptacle and turn it 180° ?

Anxiously awaiting your words of wisdom.

Oswego John

[Steve Laume]

I believe Mitchell meant to say you want a saber saw blade that cuts on the down stroke to prevent chipping. putting adheasive tape on the area that you intend to cut helps too. You can sand and glue over existing formica if it is glued down well. It will leave you with a double brown edge where the top meets the vertical edge. Laminate can be removed fairly easily by using a heat gun or torch and a puddy knife. If I had a complex shape to cut out accurately I would first make a template out of 1/4 plywood and then follow it with a trim router equipped with a piolt bit. If the piece is a managable size a band saw does a neat job of it but still not as acurate as following a template that you can fuss with untill you get it right. Have fun, Steve.

[M. R. Bober]

John,
I find that reverse cuts are best done with a scrolling saber saw operated by a southpaw. Simply turn the blade backwards and move the material forward.

Steve,
Did I forget to mention that you should secure the material to the ceiling and make your cuts from below. I think you are correct about the blade. In any case get a laminate blade ( the teeth go in the oppsite direction of regular blades.)

Every best wish
Mitchell Bober
Sunny Annapolis (where there is a reason that good advice is free), MD

[Mark W. Nelson]

I don't think it is a good idea to attempt to bridge holes, particularly 3" holes, with formica or other laminate. Even if it looks good at first, the holes will soon "telegraph" through the laminate.

For the small holes, I'd plug them with a dowel and glue, sanding flush. You might have to drill the holes to match the dowel.

For the big holes, cutting a 3" plug to match will be a nightmare. Maybe make the plug (of whatever shape) trace it on the counter and cut the hole to match. Put some back support on it, glue in, and add filler when the glue cures. Sand well.

Laminate over the glued and filled plugs. Cut the laminate good side down, since the saber saw cuts on the upstroke, and the chipping is on the upper side. Cut within 1/4 to 1/8 inch of the finish edge and trim with either a router with laminate trimming roller pilot bit or file the edge down, keeping the finish angle consistent.

[Mark W. Nelson]

Oh, yeah. Forgot one thing:

Ignore Mitch's advice.

[Oswego John]

Hi Mitch, (and all)

It's me again. Maybe I owe you an apology for my feeble attempt at snapping your garter. But you seem to have survived the onslaught quite well and I have enjoyed your bon mots. I especially appreciate attaching the formica to the ceiling and reverse cutting from below. (A true sign of genius)

On a more serious note, many of the replies contained some real savvy tips. I would like to add something to the thread by stating that when I cut thin material, especially as brittle as formica, I try to use as fine a blade as possible. By that, I mean to use a blade with as many teeth per inch as you can. The coarser the blade, the more it will grab and chip the finished cut.

Please keep us informed if and when the sun ever does appear down there. Pictures would be more convincing.

Best regards,
Oswego John

[winthrop fisher]

Hi.

the easy way to fix holes in fiber glass that small is to put marine tex in the holes,
all you have to do is put a small piece of wood behind it with a small amount on it (marina tex) and then fill in the hole using two or three layers on top, each one getting bigger as you go.
then using gelcoat repair kit to color match over it.
the whole thing would only cost about twenty five or so.

if it is wood all you have to do is get saw dust and west and mix them together and fill in the hole, thats it.

hope this helps.
winthrop

Well...I removed our old, rusty, nasty propane range/stove yesterday along with the dead Adler-Barbour refrigeration system. I now have numerous screw holes and 3 significant 2-3" diameter holes in the formica veneered space that formerly held the range/stove.

What is the best way to fill in those holes and, hopefully, blend them into a vanishing quality.

Thanks in advance.