windlass

mruhnke · Post by **mruhnke** » Feb 26th, '05, 18:37

I am thinking of installing a windlass on my CD30K. I think a horizontal axis placed in front of the staysail gooseneck would work. Has anyone installed a windlass on the CD30, any comments on models, locations. Is it worth going electric?

I am pulling up a 45# cqr with 35' of chain by hand, so a manual windlass will be at least an improvement.

Any pictures?

Reed · Post by **Reed** » Feb 27th, '05, 07:34

Whoa! a 45lb. CQR on a CD30. Isn't that just a little bit of over kill? I have a 35lb. CQR on my CD31 and find that it's more than enough, actually my previous 22lb. CQR also worked fine cruising the New England coast. I installed an electric vertical (Lewmar Sprint 600) to the left of my staysail boom pedestal. I found that any farther forward wouldn't let my rode fall into the deepest part of the anchor locker. Also I went to 1/4" G4 chain (150') with 150' of 1/2" nylon after that. The chain grips the gypsy better and falls into the anchor locker better. I put a little Optima Group 24 starting battery under the V berth to shorten the cable run. The engine is always running when I weigh anchor so there's plenty of power. The electrics are faster than the manual windlasses so weighing anchor is quick and easy. The chain rode reduces scope to 4 to 1, good in tight anchorages.

Good Luck, Reed CD31 #51 Mary Alice

MEsposito · Post by **MEsposito** » Feb 27th, '05, 08:36

Reed,

Would you have any picture of your windlass installation. I am planning on installing a windlass on my CD31 and am having trouble deciding on which orientation would be best. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Mike
CD31 #23 Larissa

mruhnke · Post by **mruhnke** » Feb 27th, '05, 10:35

When I bought the boat it came with the 45# CQR. Its really not that bad except for the work out pulling it up by hand (I am not retired yet so pulling it up by hand is considered acceptable).

It provides a good peace of mind when it starts blowing real hard. I would consider trading for a 35# I if someone wanted.

Any pictures of windlass install would be appreciated

Reed · Post by **Reed** » Feb 27th, '05, 16:17

I haven't posted a picture on this board for a long time, so I hope this works. I'm working from Sampson Cay in the Exumas so it's a bit of a technology long shot, but here goes.

[url]

Reed CD31 #51 Mary Alice

Reed · Post by **Reed** » Feb 27th, '05, 16:43

Got it wrong the first time so trying again.[img]http://www.villagephotos.com/pubgallery ... 962289[img][/img]

Reed · Post by **Reed** » Feb 27th, '05, 17:00

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-2/9 ... 1_0165.JPG[/img]

Whew! I think I finally got it.

Reed CD31 #51 Mary Alice

Phil Shedd · Post by **Phil Shedd** » Feb 27th, '05, 19:03

Reed

Wonderful install of windless. Did it take you long to to it or did you have some body do it? I find my self that a 35 lbs CQR is a little heavy at times , more so when it comes up with half the river bottom or maybe it is because of being fifty something no must be the mud.

Phil

CD 31 Gamblin'

MEsposito · Post by **MEsposito** » Feb 27th, '05, 19:26

Reed,

Great pictures....Thanks

Reed · Post by **Reed** » Feb 27th, '05, 20:19

I agonized over this windlass installation. I even bought a used Lewmar Hyspeed manual windlass on Ebay and rebuilt before I realized it wouldn't work because it would have to be mounted too far forward to work. I finally realized that the vertical windlasses would unload off their right side and would be low enough profile not to interfere with the staysail boom operation. By using the left side anchor roller leading back to the left side of the gypsy the rode would lead straight back and unload into the center of the anchor locker without cutting a hole in the bowsprit teak. Raising the windlass on a 2" teak pad with a 1/2" Starboard plate beneath it gave me a 2 1/2" lift to lead the rode over the bowsprit and lift the windlass high enough over the anchor locker to add a little extra fall to the rode (very important because the rode piles up and reduces the fall which you need to help the gypsy grip the rode). The first teak pad I made was oval, but that created a recess between the front edge of the pad and the bowsprit, which was going to catch a lot of sea water, so I cut a new pad (my wife insisted) which tapered forward to deflect sea water. The 1/2" starboard pad under the teak eliminated the weak varnish seal where the pad would meet the deck and absorb moisture. A stainless steel strip from the bow roller back the windlass had to be cut by a metal fabricator to protect the bowsprit teak from the chain. The whole thing was labor, time and money intensive, but it works nicely and the 1/4" G4 chain is light and compact enough to fit in the anchor locker and not weigh down the bow too much. Down here in the Bahamas we often have to anchor three times in a row in poor holding areas, and being able to lift and deploy the anchor quickly is a big benefit. Hope this helps.

Reed CD31 #51 Mary Alice

mruhnke · Post by **mruhnke** » Feb 27th, '05, 22:26

Thanks for the pictures. It looks like the manual retrieval would be difficult with the stay sail gooseneck, but possible. I think I will be going electric with a similar set up. I can't continue to haul the anchor by hand, I need to save my back so will be able to enjoy my retirement.

It must be nice in the Exumas. Up here in new york we are getting cabin fevvvvvvveeeeer. No sun, no sail, plenty of taxes and lots of cold.

Have you been through George Town, Great Exuma, Stocking Island area?

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