CD23 Trailer Brake Retrofit

[Eleanor]

Does anyone have experience retrofitting a trailer (tandem axle) for brakes? The boat is currently on the trailer and we will have to move her 8 hours with no brakes (more worried about a ticket than safety). She's going in the water in a few weeks at which point we'd like to add brakes before we take her to her final destination 17 hours and many states away!

Thanks in advance,

Eleanor

[Steve Laume]

I have had a tandem axle trailer for many years that I mostly dried lumber on. It was a travel trailer that burned in it's first life. Well I finally spent some time and money on it to make a very nice flat bed out of it. I hauled a Typoon on it a hundred miles or so and it was a lesson in caution. The brakes had been ruined in the fire and even though I have a 3/4 ton pick up it was iffy hauling the TY. This summer I knew I would be hauling a mess of stuff on 400 mile trips and I just didn't feel it was worth the risksto go brakeless. Like you said you are in line for a ticket but not only that but I believe that the arresting officer would not let you transport the rig any farther once he pulled you over. That would be the least of your problems. What happens if the thing gets away from you and durring an accident investigation it is found that you have no brakes? You could also wreck your boat or kill yourself or someone else. These are all concerns that I considered before I decided it would not be worth running without brakes. I was not nessicarily in that order either. I didn't have much time so I took the trailer over to a local outfit that mounts truck bodies and sells and services trailers. I believe it cost me around 6 or 7 hundred bucks to have them rig me up a first class set of brakes repack the wheel bearings and wire the truck to match the brake harness. It was a big bite but it fells really good when I'm running down the road with one less thing to worry about. It makes a world of difference in how quick you can stop and at least one more thing is legal. If you are towing as far as you say it should be a pretty easy decision, steve.

[ray b]

NORTHERN tool and eqipment has big heavy duty axles with brakes mounted
at 350 each but I would NOT use brakes on a launch trailer
as they quickly rust and lockup

so if you want brakes be ready to pay for a travel lift to launch

[Stephen Dupuis]

I have a Triad, tandem wheel trailer for a CD23 that came with (and fits) my Typhoon. It is extremely well built and has Stainless steel brakes. The previous owner hauled a 23 footer and, so I'm told, had a problem with the brakes 'freezing'. I hauled the Ty when I bought her in January 2004, without any problems by disconnecting the hydraulic line from the piston on the trailer tounge. It has a disconnect feature because the tounge has an 8' extension.
I don't recommend trailering without brakes but as long as you keep a good distance from traffic ahead of you and drive cautiously you should have no trouble.
The trailer manufacturer emailed me a repair and maint. procedure for the brake system. I hope to do a complete repair after launch this spring

[Greg Ross]

I have had a tandem axle trailer for many years that I mostly dried lumber on.

Steve, I guess the question beggs to be asked;
Do you haul the lumber around for drying to a specific procidure, ie; mph x time=a particular dryness level?


Couldn't help myself!!!!!

[dwdisbennett]

You only need to install brakes on one axle. There are two types out there. Surge brakes which are activated by the momentum of the trailer pushing against the hitch as the tow vehicle stops. This type of system requires the replacement of the trailer coupler and the addition of hydraulic lines from the coupler to the axle. Somewhat difficult to install but are very reliable. They work like the brakes on your car, with the coupler being the brake pedal.
THe other style is electric. These are very simple to install, but require the addition of a brake controller and wiring added to the tow vehicle. This is best done by a trailer or RV shop. The controller provides increasing voltage to the brakes as you mash on the pedal harder. It requires very little modification to the trailer.

Both systems will require the replacement of one set of hubs, preferably the aft set, or the entire axle, depending on the set up of the trailer. Both types are available in either drum or disc. I would go with the disc for ease of set up, maintainance, and they can be rinsed with fresh water easily. THere is available a fresh water flush kit available from West Marine. Norther Hydraulics is an excellent source for the do it your selfer.

[Eleanor]

Thanks for all of the guidance on this one. We're going to do a very careful move home without brakes but a follow vehicle. Once she's in the water (we went and checked out the new marina today), we're going to do the brakes.

Fair winds to all.