CD TYPHOON THRU HULLS

[Tom Tucker]

I am refurbishing the thru hulls on my TYPHOON. As I tightened the locknut on the thru hull I felt the hull liner depress. I was already concerned that the thru hull locknuts were set up against the hull liner vice a backing plate attached directly to the hull. That concern has now been greatly increased as I can imagine any movement between the hull liner and the hull having the potential to eventually create a leak around the thru hull.
I would greatly appreciate any comments:
1. Is my concern ill founded?
2. If not, what is the best way to fix the problem?

My only idea so far has been to cut a big enough hole in the hull liner that I could add a backing plate to the hull and tighten the thru hull locking nut directly against the backing plate.

I have also considered glassing over the thru hull holes and living with the inconvenience of bailing rain water out of the bilge. My problem with this is what might happen if I took a wave in the cockpit while off shore or transiting the St. Augustine inlet.

Any comments will be greatly appreciated.

Tom

[winthrop fisher]

Hi Tom.

just remove them and put the new ones in its place, with out the backing plates. put 3M 4200 with them.
you will be fine, and remenber that going off shore is fun and be care full.
winthrop

I am refurbishing the thru hulls on my TYPHOON. As I tightened the locknut on the thru hull I felt the hull liner depress. I was already concerned that the thru hull locknuts were set up against the hull liner vice a backing plate attached directly to the hull. That concern has now been greatly increased as I can imagine any movement between the hull liner and the hull having the potential to eventually create a leak around the thru hull.
I would greatly appreciate any comments:
1. Is my concern ill founded?
2. If not, what is the best way to fix the problem?

My only idea so far has been to cut a big enough hole in the hull liner that I could add a backing plate to the hull and tighten the thru hull locking nut directly against the backing plate.

I have also considered glassing over the thru hull holes and living with the inconvenience of bailing rain water out of the bilge. My problem with this is what might happen if I took a wave in the cockpit while off shore or transiting the St. Augustine inlet.

Any comments will be greatly appreciated.

Tom

[Leo MacDonald CD33]

Hi Tom,

You have the correct answer.

1. Is my concern ill founded?

Not at all.

My only idea so far has been to cut a big enough hole in the hull liner that I could add a backing plate to the hull and tighten the thru hull locking nut directly against the backing plate.

This is the correct solution - go for it!!

Fair Winds,
Leo
(Who has of yet not fully decoded the 'new board')
CD33 EVENING LIGHT
(With new "TrueCharger 20+" installed and fully recovered Ship's House Battery
Pine Isl. Bay, Groton, CT

[Tim Mertinooke]

Tom,
My Ty seacocks are frozen open and I have contemplated replacing them this spring so that I would have the luxury of closing them in an emergency. Did you replace yours, or take them out to clean them up. If seacocks are frozen, can they be removed and resurrected back to good working order? TIM

[Tom Tucker]

Tim,
The valves in your cockpit drain system are probably gate valves unless, they were previously replaced with seacocks. That is what I am in the process of doing now. I will also replace the hoses. If the gate valves that were installed when your Typhoon was built have already been replaced with seacocks you may be able to refurbish them.
I will be away from my computer for about four days starting tomorrow. So if you have additional questions address them to the general board and I am sure there will be plenty of people ready to help you. This is a great board.

Best Regards,

Tom

[Tim Mertinooke]

I don't believe mine are gate valves, but ball valves, because they have a lever rather the wheel and axle found on gate valves (someone please correct me if I am wrong). The boat was built in 1982 and I am the third owner. In the lengthy conversation that I had with the previous owner there was no mention of new valves being put in, only that they were frozen. If they do have levers instead of the wheel and axle, is it safe to assume that these are true seacocks and that they can be refurbished. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. TIM

[Greg Ross]

Tim,
Have a look at this link;
http://www.spartanmarine.com/image/25.jpg
These are the original style Spartan Seacocks, if these are what you have then they should come apart with persuasion. The grease will have dried up and left them seemingly frozen.
The big nut on one end of the barrel would have to be loosened, better to back it out till no threads are showing. Now with a hardwood block and a small hammer give that end a sharp tap. Should dislodge, take the nut all the way off and pull the barrel through.
Read up on servicing these type seacocks and the correct type grease to use-just a waterproof grease! Automotive grease doesn't work, been there done that and had to get the boat lifted to regrease mine!

[winthrop fisher]

Hi tin and tom...

you do have a typhoon, right.

well after having three cd's (ty,cd22, cd27) all of them are a little different on the thru hull fitting.

on the typhoon you do not have to cut the inter hull lining at all, other wise the company would have done that way.

the stock on the typhoon has a bronze gate value with a round handle, (that you can get in any hardware store across the U.S.)

the bronze ball value has a handle that gos up and down,(45%)

the sea cocks have a large flanged on the bottom with a handle that gos up and down and needs a backing plate,
(they do not put these on typhoons at all, unless some one else put it on before)

the typhoon only used the gate and the ball values you do not need any thing else and don't for get to use sm4200 on both sides when you put it on.

you only have less then a foot under there, don't make it harder for your self,

besides the hose is is only 16 to 18 inches long and its hard to make it bend under there with one hand, unless you are lying down,

all so gate and ball values can not be redone at all, trash them.
and replaces them.

seacocks can be rebuilt.

when i did mine i put bronzes ball values on and replace the hose,
you will find it hard to get it off under the cockpit and putting it back on.

all so with gate and ball values you do not need backing plates at all,
but sea cocks you need backing plates because of there size,
look at them some time and see the differents, big differents between all three of them....

have a nice sailing season.

winthrop

I don't believe mine are gate valves, but ball valves, because they have a lever rather the wheel and axle found on gate valves (someone please correct me if I am wrong). The boat was built in 1982 and I am the third owner. In the lengthy conversation that I had with the previous owner there was no mention of new valves being put in, only that they were frozen. If they do have levers instead of the wheel and axle, is it safe to assume that these are true seacocks and that they can be refurbished. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. TIM

[Greg Ross]

Winthrop,
My '85 Ty does have Spartan Seacocks/ has doubler plates fitted and it all looks original to me?
An opion from Cape Dory at the time perhaps?

[winthrop fisher]

hi Greg...
does yours look like one in the picture you showed us, well you got the best ones, because all the typhoons i have seen all had gates values and most of the people would replace then with ball values,
thats all i was saying.
i have never seen a ty with seacocks at all, but if you guys got them in the 80's then you did good.
i did not think the newer (80's) ones had the better seacocks.
my miss take, sorry.
winthrop

Winthrop,
My '85 Ty does have Spartan Seacocks/ has doubler plates fitted and it all looks original to me?
An opion from Cape Dory at the time perhaps?